Stainless SMAW

[Stick-man]

At school the instructor gave us some SS rods to try out. They were donated so I don't know the storage condition of them. And since I never ran a SS rod, I couldn't tell. But, my observations were:

Now keep in mind, I am in the position 2 or horizontal class for stick welding. So we had to try these accordingly even though I would have preferred to play a little in the flat pos first.

309-17 - 1/8", heavy slag, puddle less visible than 7018 but ran ok.

502-16 - 3/32", ran great kinda like 7018, puddle very visible.

308L-15 - 1/8", ran like crap had to move quick and deliberate or puddle falls out

316L-16 - 1/8", rand a little better than the 308.

I wish I had pics, but in between turns with my partner I was observing another class using the air arc gouging torch with 3/8" carbons. And I didn't know we were going to try so many different ones so I thought I could grab a pic at the end.

Any comments? I've read the McKay catalog where they offer, for example, a 309 rod in three different versions, -15, -16, & -17. And they describe the puddle as being concave, flat or convex. Any preference for general work vs. out of position? Or is it just what is spec'd in the prints?

[B.Appel]

I've ran 309's. Felt they ran real nice and gave you total control of the puddle. I also found they arc right up no major striking needed.

Arc air is awesome too, although you can do better cleaner gouging with a plasma.

[Scott Young]

It has been my understanding that the -15 -16 -17 designations determined the position they could be used in. 15 is for overhead, vertical, horizontal, and flat. 16 is for vertical, horizontal, and flat. And, 17 is for horizontal and flat. The higher the number the heavier the slag and more fluid the puddle.

To get a better idea of how each welds then you would need to run 308 -15, -16, -17 and then 309 -15, -16, -17 and so forth.

[Stick-man]

To get a better idea of how each welds then you would need to run 308 -15, -16, -17 and then 309 -15, -16, -17 and so forth.

Oh sure, and also fresh opened cans. But I would like to hear from guys who have used this, and their opinions of an all around "general" useage rod. Or is there no such thing?

[Rick V]

Maybe there are some fellas that run SS stick everyday... but I don't know anybody. ;)
My guess is the most folks, like me, might have accumulated a mixed lot of SS and/or specialty electrodes from past wheeling and dealing. I've got about 7 lbs of mixed alloys in different diameters. Really to expensive to burn for fun... :D got to wait till I have an applicable piece of work before I'd practice. IMO...

[Scott Young]

I have run a couple hundred pounds of stainless rods over the last few years, but most if it was as specified by the engineer. I keep 309-15 and 309-16 in 3/32 and 1/8 on hand around the house and shop for when I need to weld dissimilar metals. I also have roughly 10 pounds each or so of 308,312, and 316 in the -16 flavor making up about 30 pounds. Most of it is left over from other jobs. I use it for junk around the place and for the local kids to give their hand to. I find the 309 more valuable for what I do cause farmers/ranchers/loggers all alike will come up with some stainless what not they want to weld to their equipment.

As I think about it, haven't run much-17 due to having to be able to weld in all positions which -15 and -16 will let you do.

Rick is right stainless is expensive. I wouldn't have as much of it if I didn't have it left over. There was a LWS that would sell it by the pound years ago. I would buy it from them when I needed to get some for odd and ends. You might want to check out your independent LWS stores.

[snoeproe]

We run a lot of stainless stick rod at work. Mostly 316 and 317 with a we bit of 308 and 309. They have been buying ESAB rod as of late. Lots of stainless tanks are welding with these rods. These rods require a good deal of skill to run out of position. They are very fluid and have a heavy slag. Yes, they are expensive but they lay down metal much faster than welding stainless with tig.

[Scott Young]

The last stainless job I was on were were required to do a count out and a count in on rods. We take out 50 rods and turn in 50 stubs. Seem one of the shifts there were a lot of sticky fingers. Stainless rods seem to walk more than any other rod in house.

[rangerweldingsvs]

SS 309L & 316L are great but my favourite is a 312...looks great when clean

[Silicon-based]

The -15 rods are best for welding out-of-position, but they leave a fuggly bead, sort of a stainless 6010. They will not run at all on AC. The -17's are very fluid, they seem more like a 7024 than a 7018 to me. The -16's are supposed to be something in between, but I can't get a decent-looking vertical bead with them to save my life.

Stainless is harder to weld out-of-position due to the fluidity of the metal and slag, and the lower thermal conductivity of the metal.

I have some 316-17 (Lincoln Blue Max), and it is the smoothest running rod I have ever used, and leaves a beautiful, shiny bead.

John

[Stick-man]

The -15 rods are best for welding out-of-position, but they leave a fuggly bead, sort of a stainless 6010. They will not run at all on AC. The -17's are very fluid, they seem more like a 7024 than a 7018 to me. The -16's are supposed to be something in between, but I can't get a decent-looking vertical bead with them to save my life.

Stainless is harder to weld out-of-position due to the fluidity of the metal and slag, and the lower thermal conductivity of the metal.

I have some 316-17 (Lincoln Blue Max), and it is the smoothest running rod I have ever used, and leaves a beautiful, shiny bead.

John

And the -15 was the one I had the most problems with. We are in the position 2 class, so we had to play that way. I really would have liked a chance to try them in the flat, to really get a feel for the rod.

[SuperArc]

I have some 316-17 (Lincoln Blue Max), and it is the smoothest running rod I have ever used, and leaves a beautiful, shiny bead.
That was going to be my question. Can you guys give an opinion of what would be a "good to have" all around SS rod at the house or farm? Just for general repairs?

It's like with soft steel, everybody I know always says for "general purpose all around rods," its good to have on hand both "6010/6011 & 7018.". What say y'all for stainless steel rods?

Thanks for your opinions.

[CEP]

I always try to keep some 309 or 312 around. Can't tell you how many endless chains I've made out of grade 8 chain by lapping two links and welding them together with 309 over the years.