Need advice on making an extension cord for MM211

[kev93]

I just bought a Millermatic 211 and do not have 220 in my garage. I want to build an extension cord to hook from my stove outlet. Any advice on what parts i will need? Thanks

[DSW]

Pretty much everything you need is listed in this thread...

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=11537&highlight=220v+extension+cord

[SuperArc]

Here: http://www.gts-welco.com/gts-welco.aspx?pcid=89&ptid=1

or here: http://www.brwelder.com/indextemplate.cfm?file=shop/results.cfm&SubCategory=1


I bought two 25' cords. If I only need one, I use it. If I need to go further, I plug in the second cord. These cords are nice and thick. 8ga wire too. The first link has the lighted end type cord, showing you the cord is plugged in and "hot." the second link apparently ow sells only the on lighted end type from what i can tell. They both have oil, UV, and wx resistant outer insulating jackets on them too. If you want, you could also just buy one 50' or 75' also.

I don't think it would be any cheaper to make your own, unless you used "cheaper" (inferior) components just to save a buck. I wanted a heavy duty cable that cut withstand heavy abuse. These cords can take anything you dish out to them.

[kev93]

thanks

[kev93]

My fusebox for the oven has 40amp fuses. Will this be an issue?

[Broccoli1]

My fusebox for the oven has 40amp fuses. Will this be an issue?

No.

You can get everything you need at Home Depot or Lowes for the Pigtail for the welder Ext. cord to the range receptacle.

Buy a Range replacement power cord- they're about 10 bux- this will have the male end already on it that mates up with the Range receptacle

Then you'll need a 6-50R wall mount- BUT the problem with the wall mount is that they are designed for the Wall :) and don't hold up to abuse. Your decision, I use one and just don't abuse it .

[kev93]

Should I use 8 gauge cord? I know nothing about electricity, the mm211 won't be to much for the 40 amp fuses?

[Silicon-based]

The 40 A fuses are not an issue; 8 ga. cord should be used as it is rated for 40A.

The newer wall-mount 6-50R's that I have seen are made of a thermoplastic material and seem much tougher than the old Bakelite ones.

If you need a longer cord than a pre-made range cord, I would recommend a length of 8/3 cord with the proper plug & receptacle, rather than splicing to a range cord.

John

[Broccoli1]

The Range replacement cords are bare on one end so you just connect them to the 6-50r- not really splicing and then just buy a Welder extension cord to go from the MM211 to the Pigtail.

If you want to skip the pigtail you can buy 10/3 cord due to the duty cycle of the MM211 but as mentioned earlier by the time you buy the Connectors and cord you are almost close to the cost of purchasing a Pre-Made ext. cord. Even more so if you buy 8/3 cord.

The other option is to buy a 120v 10/3 Pre-made cord- Home Depot carries Rigid Brand- and then cut off the 120v connectors and replace with a Range Plug and a 6-50r.

Save a couple bucks.

[kev93]

and the 10/3 would be heavy enough?

[DSW]

Yes. 10-3 is normally rated at 30 amps, and with the derating allowed for welders, that gives you even more of a margin of safety. IIRC that machine only draws something like 26 amps 230v.

[SuperArc]

double post, sorry.

[SuperArc]

and the 10/3 would be heavy enough?
That all depends on the TOTAL length (extention cord + machine's power cord length + outlet-to-panel box wire run length = TOTAL RUN LENGTH) of your total "run" you need from electrical panel box, all the way to the power cord input onto your MillerMatic 211.

Here's some basic instruction that might help you determine what size wire and length you can safely run at a MINIMUM:

Figure out how long of an extention cord run you will need exactly. I'm guessing from your kitchen to the garage, driveway, etc... will be a ways out. Next, add up how long your electrical outlet wiring length runs inside your home's walls, from the oven range all the way out to the house panel box. (Or whatever outlet you said you're going to use). I'm sure it's on the other side of your house and like mine, it's a good 75' of wiring inside the walls!!!! Finally, add up the length of your MM211's power cord (around 6'). That will give you the TOTAL length you need to calculate what size wire (extention cord) to use safely.

After you've figured that all out, figure out how many amps the MM211 pulls at MAX power. (Some might disagree about using the "Maximum" amperage draw, but I think that's the safe thing to do. Don't skimp on your figures is my belief. So far, I haven't started any fires due to electrical wiring overheating inside my shop or house).

Here's a shortcut.... the MM211 manual says it will pull 24.3 amps @ 230volts (page 11). So, based on all that info that you've figured out, plug those numbers into this wire gauge calculator. It's very self explanatory:

http://www.csgnetwork.com/wiresizecalc.html

The parameters you'll more than likely use for the above calculator are as follows: "copper", "single phase," "240volts." (Remember, don't get confused with seeing "220, 230 or 240volts". In a nut-shell, the terms are all synonymous with each other, just like 110/115/120v all mean the same thing. However, If you see "208volts," that's different and does not pertain to your MM211 or your home's wiring). ....anyway, back on topic...

Where it asks you, "one half the total circuit length" means the TOTAL length that we added up earlier. In other words, if your total length came out to "89 feet" (outlet wire length + extension cord length + MM211's power cord length = 89'), then you'd put "89" into that parameter box on the calculator provided link.

Where it asks, "total circuit amperage," that's where you put in the amp rating for that outlet for your "range" in your house. I believe you said its a 40 amp circuit for your oven??? So, put in 40 then. If it's only "30 amps" then put that number in the calculator. Finally, look down at the bottom of the page and it will show you your minimum wire size needed.

There are a few precautions here. Unless you know what size wire your home builder used in that circuit for your oven range, if it was thin, it could also be an issue. Just something to consider thats too long to explain on a key board. If you still have difficulty, you might just consult a professional electrician and have him install an outlet in your garage. Afterall, that's the RIGHT way to do it in the first place.

I am NOT a professional electrician, nor do I personally screw with panel boxes, circuit breakers or outlets. I hire a pro to do that. If I've given out any incorrect info here, please someone with more electrical knowledge than I feel free to correct my information. ;)

Hope this helps you. :drinkup:

[Broccoli1]

yer more likely to start a Fire with yer grinder:waving: