Powermax30-- Cutting Expanded Metal

[KenS]

I know the Powermax45 has a setting for cutting expanded metal. Since the Powermax30 doesn't, are there any special tips for cutting expanded metal with it? Since you have to retrigger the arc on the Powermax30, does that just cut into the life of the consumables, or could it stress the power supply?

Any tips are appreciated.

[dstevens]

The PM30 has a pilot arc. I cut expanded with it all the time. No need to restrike the arc with the trigger, I put the straight edge down (or freehand), pull the trigger and keep cutting. I've noticed that gouging takes the biggest bite out of the electrode but I don't think the little PM30 is meant to gouge much, if at all but I have.

[KenS]

The PM30 has a pilot arc. I cut expanded with it all the time. No need to restrike the arc with the trigger, I put the straight edge down (or freehand), pull the trigger and keep cutting. I've noticed that gouging takes the biggest bite out of the electrode but I don't think the little PM30 is meant to gouge much, if at all but I have.

Thanks for the valuable input on cutting expanded metal. I'm getting ready to cut my first pieces (don't use it very much) and have seen it done with the PM45 but wasn't sure of how the PM30 would do.

BTW, are you using your PM30 on 110- or 220-volt, and what setting? (The expanded metal I'm looking to use is standard small-trailer flooring.)

Seems to me that the trick to gouging is to slowly angle the torch and arc into the metal, rather than make a straight plunge.

Thanks again.

[dstevens]

I typically use 1/4" x 1" 18 ga sheet for expanded. No problems. What I'm calling a gouge (which is called a pierce) you start with the torch at about 90* to the material and turn into the material to pierce. The deal with the PM30 isn't so much the technique as it is the machine isn't rated to pierce but it can. It's just a be hard on the consumables. We've cut up a couple of old race cars that way.

Mine is always on 220 volts in the shop. These days I don't pay so much attention to what the actual knob setting is as I work with a smaller variety of material and after having it a few years now know where to set it. The only time it would be on 120 volt is at the track where ther is no 220 volt. By using the speed of the cut and thickness of the material after a while you'll get a feel for where it needs to be set. Finding the right setting and speed reduces the dross, makes a cleaner cut and prolongs consumable life. For demolition work I crank it up to 30 amps and let it rip. Speed and getting the carcass of the car out of the shop is the priority and for scrap the cuts don't have to be nice. I have a used set of consumables for that sort of metal hatchet work.

Check out the Hypertherm newsletter Spark and the learning center on the Hypertherm site and that should get you cutting well in no time flat.