View Full Version : Bench grinder question
05-16-2004, 04:33 AM
Say I want to grind down a small weld bead on something. If I try to do it on my 8" bench grinder, it does not do it very fast, even after dressing the wheel.
But if I use my 4" angle grinder, I can do it fast and easy. So I was thinking.......how about using a wheel for a angle grinder on the bench grinder? What do you think about this? It would seem that the angle grinder wheel would also be stronger.
not a good thing to do!!! that could be a dangerest thing to do.leave them on the side grinder,there not made to be used on a bench grinder.
05-16-2004, 09:35 AM
No I don't like the sound of that. Each of those tools are made to do a specific job don't try to make them do something there not intended for. A small angle grinder wheel on that bench grinder is only going to make for some awkward grinding angles that will probably get you hurt. :cry:
I would use the angle grinder to grind the weld bead it is made to be maneuverable, and to move metal fast. And I would leave the bench grinder for deburring and touch up work.:cool2:
Shade Tree Welder
05-16-2004, 10:07 AM
Do not use angle grinder wheel on you bench grinder. That could be very dangerous.
If you want to use your bench grinder to remove metal faster then you need a coarser grit wheel. Most bench grinders come with a medium (60 grit) and a fine wheel (100-120 grit). These are fine if you are sharpening drills or other small tools. I would suggest getting a 24 grit bench and pedestal wheel. Norton part number 66253044454.
Or if you want to use what foundry's use to remove gates, risers and parting lines.
Norton part numbers 66253006670 or 66253006883. Those are 16 grit wheels. But they will hog off material. Don't expect much of a finish it is a 16 grit wheel.
I believe J&L carries Norton. http://www.jlindustrial.com/
You can also locate distributors on line at http://www.nortonabrasives.com/ I would also spend some time looking at the safety material on Norton's website.
05-16-2004, 05:13 PM
I am not sure that it would be " unsafe " to do so as long as you have a proper sized arbor to keep it centered on the shaft. A resinoid grinding disk is designed to grind on either of the sides or the edge and are meant to be run at up to twice the rpms of a equal diameter vitrified bond grinding wheel. The problem is that you would gain no efficiency advatage because of the slower rpm of your bench grinder. A typical 8" bench grinder will run at about 3450 rpm, some at 1750 rpm. Your typical 7" resinoid angle grinder wheel is disigned to run safely up to about 8000 rpms or more. I don't think you would speed up your grinding at all by doing this, but I don't think it would be inherently unsafe as long as the proper arbor bushings and flanges are used.
Hay doc u ever see one of those come apart? well i have and it wasn't a pretty site the guy that was using it was in the hospital for 2 weeks! and he was using it right, but u are right about what ur saying,however they were not ment to be used that way! now im not getting on u i just dont think that it is a good idea! but then its not me doing it!!!
05-16-2004, 05:39 PM
And the correct answer comes from Doc Wilson!
Actually, resinoid wheels can run quite well on stationary grinders, PROVIDED, they are properly mounted. I have an overgrown toolpost grinder for the lathe that I use resinoid wheels on.
The critical rating on a grinding wheel or belt, is FEET per minute, not RPM.
Wheels are labeled for maximum RPM for safety reasons, and RPM X circumference gives you the feet per minute the abrasive is cutting.
The average homeowner bench grinder will NOT support a resinoid wheel long before cooking the motor.
If you really need to hog metal, try a foundry snagging wheel of the proper diameters, and make damn sure you can hang onto what you intend to grind, and wear plenty of safety equipment!
Shade Tree Welder
05-16-2004, 06:30 PM
Hmmmmm, Foundry wheels???? Maybe I should have mentioned that.
05-17-2004, 12:45 AM
The problem with my bench grinder is probably that the 60 grit coarse wheel is not coarse enough. I will check around for another one, thanks
05-17-2004, 12:56 PM
Seems like the right tool for the job is the hand-held angle grinder, be it 4-1/2", 7" or whatever. Most of the shops that I've visited have a bench grinder that is usually covered with dust from dis-use. In the big fabrication operations I've seen, the "bench gringer" is a gnarly monster that I'd just as soon not get acquainted with!
05-17-2004, 03:13 PM
One difference to remember about bench grinders and angle grinders is that bench grinders are designed to grind small (relatively) parts, not just anything that you can somehow lift up to the wheel. An angle grinder can be brought to a large item, and as it grinds it bounces on and off of the object being ground. A small tool or part bounces on and off of the bench grinder as it is being ground. But a large item doesn't bounce with a bench grinder enough to be safe and protect the wheel. This may not apply to your project, but is something we should all keep in mind.
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