the industrial cut-off saw sucks

[cell]

I picked up one of these recently:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=44829

and now I regret it. It turns out that because the blade is so large and thin, that it can easily develop "modes" of vibration. Furthermore, the modes of vibration vary depending upon where you are in the cut, how much force you are applying, etc. So the result is that you get a cut of varying thickness.

Also, it appears to be pretty easy to heat treat the steel as you are cutting it, which makes it pretty much impossible to finish the cut.

I was using this to cut 4" wide 1/8 mild steel into "coupons" for practice welds. I am sure this thing would work well for cutting rebar, but it certainly isn't useful for my purposes.

In the shop where I am taking a welding class they don't have abrasive cut-off wheels, only metal cutting bandsaws and hydraulic shears. I should have paid closer attention to that fact...

Oh well, back to the old HF to buy a 4x6 bandsaw this evening! I have seen a couple of websites about various mods and improvements people have done to their 4x6 saws, so I have a better feeling about it being usable.

[MicroZone]

Believe it or not, there is a certain technique to using a cut off saw. As with welding, it takes practice to get used to the tool and it's capabilities. A "chop saw" is a handy tool but used incorrectly, it will give terrible results.

[cell]

you know, its interesting that you say that, because some of my cuts came out very well, and others very badly.

[Joe H]

I've got an older model of the same saw. I bought it at a yard sale for $15.
It is a little underpowered, but it cuts straight and fast.

Let it wind up before you start a cut, and don't be so easy on the feed pressure. Don't lay on it, but push had enough that it strains the motor. When the motor slows down some, let off the pressure so it can wind up again.

You are most likely having problems finishing cuts because of glazing on the blade. This is from not enough feed pressure.

[lewray]

My Dewalt is a freakin monster!! sometimes it trips breakers if the radio is too loud only upon start up only!!!

I love the thing;however, paid dearly for it


Had it for 5 hard years

[cell]

thanks joe, maybe I should start over with a fresh blade. I did notice my current one was sort of smooth looking.

I have recently read about facing wheels, or spur wheels for grinders. can you use something like that on an abrasive blade, or just chuck it and start with a new one?

[Joe H]

If you just gouge through a piece of scrap real quick, with lots of pressure, you will expose new grit on the blade and all will be well.

I do recommend tossing the blade that came on it though. Go get a Dewalt blade at Lowes or Tractor Supply, they are alot better. They only cost around $6.

[tapwelder]

Also, Expose you blade to the narrowest cutting area. Hence, You should be cutting through the edge of the 1/8" edge, not the 4" side. Clamp your work tightly in place with extra clamps.

[cell]

ahh, I was indeed cutting it flat instead of vertically.

[c4cruiser]

Clamp your work tightly in place with extra clamps.

The clamp that comes with that saw sucks. It's very difficult to get precise 90 degree cuts or any other angle. The fence at the back has a curve at the bottom so small pieces may not sit flush against the fence.

The threaded rod and clamp are pretty cheap so make sure you have the work held in place tightly. An extra C-clamp or two will help steady the work and keep it from slipping out of the clamp assembly.