absolutely clueless, newbie

[dmiller]

i bought a small stick welder today from harbor frt. 230 volt, 110 amp.

having a very hard time getting the arc to strick without sticking the rod to the work.

finally finished my first project, but are there any suggestions on how to get the arc started without sticking the rod?


thanks

doug

[vipermanz]

Welcome aboard!!,

Dumb question on my part, But do you have any welding experience?, Was the polarity for the specific rod set correctly?

They may sound like dumb questions but it's needed to help you out.

Thanks!!

[Packrat]

As Vipermanz asks, Polarity setting, and amperage setting.
If it's too low, the rod will stick every time. If it's to high, you'll blow right through. Get some scrap iron and practice running beads on it. Try different ampreage settings. try using different thicknesses too. A little trick I learned years ago, Strike the rod like a match, when the tip gets hot, you will be able to stop the rod, and start you puddle for your bead. It's hard to explain, but give it a try. Don't try to weld two pieces together until you have run a few practice beads. Once you've tried that, and get the ampreage setting for your piticular rod, you will have better luck. Keep us posted on your progress. Hope this helps you some.

Packrat.

[dmiller]

i have no welding experience, there is no option for polarity, is DC, using 6011 rod. i finally finished my first project using 1/16 rod with about 60 amps, welding 1/2 inch square tubing.

in another thread, i read about various density of eye shields, is one supposed to be able to see anything before the arc is made? i can only see after the arc is made, but then i have a good view of the puddle then.

i'm going to investigate local trade school classes for hobby monday.

i appreciate your responses.

thanks

doug

[Supercharged S10]

yes. you want an "auto darkening" helmet. you can see pretty well before the arc is struck. and can see the puddle well.
kinda expensive, but WELL worth it !!!

[the hat]

IF you have a DC machine , then you have a choice of electrode positive(DCEP) or electrode negitive(DCEN). An AC machine has no polarity as far as the electrode is concerned.On a DC machine 6011 should be DCEP.

[Sberry]

Is there a link to the machine you bought? Most cheap machines are AC.

[dmiller]

i'll check, really don't know.

if it is ac, and i'm using the wrong rod, does that make it difficult to strike an arc.

i haven't welded much before, but i didn't have this much problem on the big machine in the welding shop.

thanks

doug

[vipermanz]

Originally posted by dmiller

if it is ac, and i'm using the wrong rod, does that make it difficult to strike an arc.

ithanks

doug

that will make a difference, 60xx series are dc and 70xx are ac rods.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=43027

is that the machine?? if so that is an ac machine

[Packrat]

60xx rods do tend to stick easier than 70xx rods. I have used 60xx rods with AC, only, with good success.
Amperage setting. That is usually the issue. I have welded with AC using 6011, 6013 without any trouble. AC and 6010 do not get along well, 6010 IS.... a hard rod to run when your learning. 6011 usually isn't as hard to run, but since 60 seires rods are for penetration, you need to stay closer to your work to keep the Arc. Then if you get to close. "Oh Ohhh.... Stuck" 70 seires rods let you get "sloppy" and will continue to burn (Once Hot) even when you almost burry the rod into the puddle. If you want an easy rod to run, Try 7014 for awhile. It is not a multi directional rod. (Strickly flat welding position) We call it Farmer wire around here. Since most farmers around here just stick stuff together to get the job done. If it stays together, Bonus!
I use a lot of 7018, It's strong, and can be used on AC or DC, Up hand, flat. downhand. If you need a rod that gives good penetration keep the 6011 around. I'm thinking your welder is probably an AC welder, judging by the link Vippermanz sent... Stick with the 1/16 rod, but do try the 70xx rods out. You may have better luck.
Usually the higher end welders will have AC/DC/DC reverse.
With 100% duty cycle. If you have used a bigger machine in the past, the smaller "Hobbie" types are going to disapoint you.

It's hard to pass up on the price tag, but If your only welding for a hobbie, and doing light work, save the few extra dollars, and invest in a 110 volt mig with flux core, They're great for little jobs, and with the flux core wire you don't need to worry about gas for it, and can weld on windy day's too. They are also very easy to weld with.

[sb62]

Originally posted by vipermanz
60xx series are dc and 70xx are ac rods.


Where may I ask did you get this bit of misinformation???

It has been a very long time since I ran any stick but the first 2 digits are Tensile Strength and have absolutely nothing to do with ac or dc.

[dmiller]

thanks. a lot of good information. will try the different rod. and determine if my machine is ac or dc.

doug

[dmiller]

my machine is "arc welder 140" model 40388, i haven't found where it is dc or ac, but since no choice of polarity, i suspect ac, as someone previoulsy suggested. harbor frt's web site doesn't specify, and their tech help is closed till the left coast wakes up.

thanks

[sb62]

dmiller

Page 13 of the manual states it is a AC welder. It's the only place I could find any reference to it and it is kind of hidden.

[dmiller]

thank you.

i'll keep trying. will get an easier rod, hope this isn't beyound my skill level.

doug

[DDA52]

Originally posted by vipermanz
, 60xx series are dc and 70xx are ac rods.

sb62 is exactly right. The first two digits HAVE ABSOLUTELY NOTHING TO DO WITH TYPE OF CURRENT. Neither does the third digit. The fourth digit relates to chemical composition of the flux or coating which is what relates to the current type. Last digit of "0" or "5" would be DC only, any others ARE AC/DC. The only exception to this RULE is E6020 which is supposedly AC/DC. This is due to an iron oxide sodium coating as opposed to a cellulose sodium coating found on the E6010. I say supposedly because this rod is mentioned in an older rod guide and not in the newer ones. It is probably no longer in production.

The above information was taken directly from a quote from the AWS A5.1-81 & A5.5-81. I did not make this up. :angry:

[TiggerAaron]

I had a horrible time with 6011 sticking even with a higher current until I tried a different starting method. I used to use a tapping technique and would stick the rod every time, now I use a scratch technique and rarely stick. Just thought i'd throw that in there as a helpful hint.

[dmiller]

i took the welding machine back. i tried the 7018 rod, no help, then i decided to try it on 110 volts, using the 6011 -1/16 dia rod. it wouldn't even spark, even with the current adjustment turned all the way up. the box wasn't humming at all. so harbor frt agreed to allow a return. i'm asking for suggestions in another tread.



i may not be able to weld, but i'm going to try again with a different machine.

i thank all that tried to help.

doug

[vipermanz]

Originally posted by sb62
Where may I ask did you get this bit of misinformation???

It has been a very long time since I ran any stick but the first 2 digits are Tensile Strength and have absolutely nothing to do with ac or dc.

i could have sworn it was something i had seen on hobart.
I do remember seeing that ac users prefer 70xx rods somewhere.
I don't do much stick myself though. Sorry bout' that;)