Layout of Spiral Staircase?

[Dirk]

As anyone here layed out a spiral staircase? What are some basic starting points (outside radius, step size, riser height,etc.)? Does the 7-11 rule still apply? I have a height to reach of 104.5" and regular staped stairs are not feasible.

Thanks,
Derrick

[MicroZone]

Welcome - you can always run a search while waiting for answers. :)

Check this link: http://weldingweb.com/search.php?searchid=363125

[Brett]

As anyone here layed out a spiral staircase? What are some basic starting points (outside radius, step size, riser height,etc.)? Does the 7-11 rule still apply? I have a height to reach of 104.5" and regular staped stairs are not feasible.

Thanks,
Derrick

Hey Dirk ,
I am familiar with Australian Standards and I would not think they are too different.

Some info required:
Max and Min Radius of staircase?
Square or round staircase?
Degree difference in orientation from entry to exit ?
Restraint of spine?
Preferred material ?

[lotechman]

check your local codes. Some places only allow then as a secondary method of access. Also I have found restrictions as the the size of rise and run at the inner diameter. Decide if this is a true spiral stair around a center support post or a sweeping stair case using two stair stringers bend into a inner and outer helix.

[William McCormick Jr]

As anyone here layed out a spiral staircase? What are some basic starting points (outside radius, step size, riser height,etc.)? Does the 7-11 rule still apply? I have a height to reach of 104.5" and regular staped stairs are not feasible.

Thanks,
Derrick

I used to build them. Made a lot of them looking back.

You have to decide how wide you want to go. They start to get really nice to go, up and down, when the opening for them is a minimum of 70 inches.

You can make them smaller and I have. But they are just not nice to navigate. Especially with laundry baskets or suitcases.


You have to decide whether they are going to be left or right handed.

You have to decide at which point you will enter and exit. That can often be mind boggling. And could determine if it will be left or right handed.

You will more then likely have to build a small three by three platform from the existing floor to the top step. Or you can build the platform, as part of the staircase. Usually the later is done on outside stainless steel staircases to elevated decks.

You also have to decide on your tread height. And tread depth. The inside of the tread nearest your support column, is going to be narrow.

You take your height of say 104.5 inches and divide that by the step height you would ideally like. Say seven and a half inches. Gives you 13.93333" or something. So you go with 14 spaces and thirteen treads. That will give you an exact height between floor and first step top of 7.464" and also between all step tops and the top floor.

Remember when you put that center poll in there, it is going to take from the space you have left for treads. And you need space between the walls and the hand rail. Or you cannot get your hand in between the wall and handrail.

The wider the nicer it is. You could never go too wide. If you have the space.

I usually make the treads about twelve to 14 inches on a tight staircase. However you have to watch your rotation compared to the lower entrance tread height. Because you can create a staircase that will make you hit your head on the top platform. So you have to have it steep enough to allow head room. You will probably be a bit short of head room. You may have to go up a bit over eight inches if the extra tread hurts you.

This one had to be really tight for my sisters house.



http://www.Rockwelder.com/GeneralCadd/projects/tstair2.jpg

http://www.Rockwelder.com/GeneralCadd/projects/tstair.jpg

You can also weld the treads onto a larger sleeve and make them adjustable with set screws. That is how the kits come. They are very inexpensive and rather easy to put together.

When you go to make the rail, there are a bunch of tricks. There are different tricks for different railing styles. The flat hand rail is different then round tube. Two totally different ways of doing it measuring it and bending it.

Sincerely,


William McCormick

[Brett]

Lovely stair case William.
Did you roll the top rail and scroll work in house?
I love spirals with timber treads.
The last spiral we did was solid glass. A stainless spine with 32mm laminated toughened glass treads and a curved helix 12mm toughened glass balustrade bolted to the treads. 1800mm diameter with a 3050mm FFL-FFL differential.From memory it had a 300° rotation and 160mm risers .
Unfortunately we had to sign a confidentiality contract and were not allowed to take photos, or reveal address ....man I wish I had some photos of that one to put in the Web Page or show room. I am so pleased I had the opportunity to do it .It was very much a once in a life time opportunity.

I usually would have a riser less that 7" if I could.

The original poster doesn't seem too concerned about the advice here , he has never bothered to reply to the first set of qualifications to help him design it.

[William McCormick Jr]

Lovely stair case William.
Did you roll the top rail and scroll work in house?
I love spirals with timber treads.
The last spiral we did was solid glass. A stainless spine with 32mm laminated toughened glass treads and a curved helix 12mm toughened glass balustrade bolted to the treads. 1800mm diameter with a 3050mm FFL-FFL differential.From memory it had a 300° rotation and 160mm risers .
Unfortunately we had to sign a confidentiality contract and were not allowed to take photos, or reveal address ....man I wish I had some photos of that one to put in the Web Page or show room. I am so pleased I had the opportunity to do it .It was very much a once in a life time opportunity.

I usually would have a riser less that 7" if I could.

The original poster doesn't seem too concerned about the advice here , he has never bothered to reply to the first set of qualifications to help him design it.

Oh, thanks.

Yes and no. I actually went over to a friends shop and had him run it through his three wheel roller. I had done another one by hand. And I was very happy with it. But the wheel roller is much faster.

I found that for flat handrail that you have to set the radius, but not to the diameter of the stairs. You have to make it larger. You have to make it to the diagonal diameter of the stairs. And then stretch it upwards like a slinky. I attached a picture.

Then I just go along with an aluminum tweaking bar I made and twist it to fit.

I agree about the seven inches. But if you don't have head room, you have to go steeper, or do away with the spiral stairs. It is just the math. At 104 inches you may not be able to do to much under 7.5 plus inches.

Those stairs sound wild. I would like to see them.



Sincerely,


William McCormick

[William McCormick Jr]

Lovely stair case William.
Did you roll the top rail and scroll work in house?


As I mentioned the hand rail I had rolled by a friend. I twisted and bent the scrolls myself. On a quickly made scroll bender.

http://www.Rockwelder.com/GeneralCadd/projects/irontwist.WMV
http://www.Rockwelder.com/GeneralCadd/projects/bendingonajig.WMV

Sincerely,


William McCormick