wiring a 416D

[kman0066]

I just got in my 416D, Simadre variety, and I need to wire it up but the directions...leave something to be desired. I understand wiring up the plug but what is with the chassis ground? Is this just a safety ground? What do you guys use to ground this?

[MAC702]

The chassis ground should just be a green screw somewhere on the frame of the machine, but usually near the cable entrance strain relief or near where the hot and neutral terminate.

I see you are in the US, but other than that, since I don't know what a 416D is, I'll need more information to help further.

[GiantTechGuy]

I just got in my 416D, Simadre variety, and I need to wire it up but the directions...leave something to be desired. I understand wiring up the plug but what is with the chassis ground? Is this just a safety ground? What do you guys use to ground this?


Are you referring to what I have pointed out in this photo? If so just ignore it. I am told that in China they do not run their equipment ground in the same cord assembly as the power conductors but that it is separate and that they attach it to that external lug. If your machine came with the equipment ground installed within the power cord, 3 conductors, then the equipment ground is already attached to the machine's frame inside the machine. Just be sure that when you install the cord end that you do it properly or better yet have an electrician do it.

[kman0066]

Yep, that's the one. Thanks for the info. I'll give the news later today how this machine works out.

[kman0066]

Yep, got it wired up, tried out the stick, pretty nice. Tried out the plasma cutter, great........for about 3 inches, then it died. I get air flow when I pull the trigger but no cutting. The stick welder still works. I have no idea if the TIG works because I don't have the Tungsten yet. I've contacted the seller, Simadre, we'll see how they do.

Anything to look for on these? I'm noticing I'm not the first this has happened to.

You know, I know these are a lot cheaper than other cutters out there, but man for several hundred dollars, it should work for more than for a few seconds.

[kman0066]

So I've tried to look into this further. The Green LED light inside the machine comes on with power. I have continuity between the nozzle and the terminal at the machine. I have air flow when I pull the trigger, just doesn't do any cutting, guessing no juice.

Any checks I can do with my multimeter that may help narrow down my problem? There's supposedly a warranty on this thing but I have to cover shipping both ways and well, that's expensive. I'm hoping to find the component that's bad and replace that alone if at all possible.

[GiantTechGuy]

Check your PM

[kman0066]

Replied, thank you for time. Hopefully we can isolate the problem.

[kman0066]

Well, I think I've worked it out with the company. They are saying it's a bad torch and are sending me a new one. So, although I'm not too happy it was bad in the first place, I'm glad they are resolving it.

[kman0066]

Woo hoo, got it working. Cuts like butta! Quick camera pic of a cut through 1/8" steel. My first few cuts stunk pretty bad because I thought you had to go pretty slow. Not so much. I know 1/8" steel isn't so much a challenge, but it's the most common thing I'll be cutting, so Cool! CHEERS. This was done with 1" tube clamped to the plate to use as a straight edge guide, forget free-hand, I can't do it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v206/kman0066/IMG00020.jpg

[longevity-inc.com]

kman0066,

Are you running it on 110v or 220v? Try it on 220v you will notice much better cutting quality and power because at 110v you are not getting the true 40amp power.

If you need help, let us know.

Thanks

[kman0066]

I am running at 220V. That was around 30amp. I heard not to leave it at max amps unless necessary to prolong the consumables life.

I do have a question about the TIG function. The gun has a switch and from what I've seen that is not a normal thing on TIG guns. Does this mean I put the electrode at the right gap and press the switch to start? Not scratch or pull start? Main question is, how do I start a weld with this gun. I haven't played around with it yet, I'm picking up the tungsten, filler, and gas today to start practicing tonight.

Also, I noticed the collet the gun came with is 3/32" and the recommended tungsten size for the material I'll be welding is 1/16" Are these Collets pretty universal? Would I find a replacement at a local welding shop most likely? I would order one via the internet, but I was hoping to get started this weekend. Does it really matter much between 1/16" and 3/32". I'll be welding 1/8" steel plate, 0.065 tube, and 0.083 tube.

[GiantTechGuy]

I am running at 220V. That was around 30amp. I heard not to leave it at max amps unless necessary to prolong the consumables life.

I do have a question about the TIG function. The gun has a switch and from what I've seen that is not a normal thing on TIG guns. Does this mean I put the electrode at the right gap and press the switch to start? YES Not scratch or pull start? non contact start Main question is, how do I start a weld with this gun. I haven't played around with it yet, I'm picking up the tungsten, filler, and gas today to start practicing tonight.

Also, I noticed the collet the gun came with is 3/32" and the recommended tungsten size for the material I'll be welding is 1/16" Are these Collets pretty universal? Would I find a replacement at a local welding shop most likely? I would order one via the internet, but I was hoping to get started this weekend. Does it really matter much between 1/16" and 3/32". I'll be welding 1/8" steel plate, 0.065 tube, and 0.083 tube.

I believe I am right in saying you'll need to match the collet size to that of the electrode.
The rest I'll leave to the tig experts here, there are many of them but you may want to post that question in the tig welding board to get a faster answer.

[rumme]

Kman...I have the same unit as you do and havce been usng it for about a month and am happy with it.

Im curious though...do you have a small air leak around the plastic bowl that attaches to the air regulator ? Mine does and I cant get it to stop..ive tryed teflon tape, silicone, etc....It really doesnt hurt the plasma cutters performance but it does cause my air compressor to kick on a bit more then if it didnt have any leaks .


Also, keep an eye on your plasma gun head. Right where the thumb trigger is mounted, there is a small metal pin that goes thru the thumb trigger . That pin may have a tendency to back out and then the contatcs wont be engaged and the plamsa cutter wont work. You may want to expoxy that pin in like I did. I made sure it was fully pushed in both holes and then put a dab of epoxy on the head of the in and the side of the gun.

[smithboy]

You maybe are supposed to have the "leak". I have a powcon starcut with a moisture trap on the back that leaves a little stream of air going all the time to remove moisture...it's not a big flow, but it's enough. I thought something was wrong with mine until I found the paperwork for the filter...yours could be the same...just a thought.

[jakeru]

That ground on the back of the machine is for suppressing electromagnetic interference. It's designed to be connected to a workshop that has metal cladding (on it's walls/ceiling/doors) designed to reduce electromagnetic interference.

If you don't have this kind of a metal clad workshop, you should just ignore this ground. And be aware you may cause some interference on nearby radios or TVs when welding (especially high frequency arc starting.)

[rumme]

kman...how do you like your unit so far ? Mine works nicely. Keep an eye on that small pin that goes thru the thumb trigger of the plasma gun. If it backs out to far, your plasma gun will not come on consistently