walk in cooler repair?

[wagin]

I have recently been contracted to repair the damaged floor of a walk-in resturant freezer. I have decided to over lay the damaged area with stainless plate. I realize that certain standards are required due to food industry. Can anyone offer info. concerning the proper sealing and fastening required to pass code. I don't think regular silicon and poprivets will do. Any info. about requirements and subsquent suppliers will be greatly appreaciated.
thanks,
wagin

[dabar39]

I have done a few repairs on walkin boxes and have used aluminized sheet steel, much cheaper than stainless and less slippery when wet. As far as code goes, at least in my area, the box must be watertight, corrosion resistant, rodent and insect proof and maintain a minimum inside temperature of 40 degrees. They don't give any other specifics for interior construction other than explosion proof lighting.

[wagin]

Thank you for the reply. My major concern was the types of materials allowable in use of sealing, water proofing. I am affraid to use normal grade sealers due to residual orders and there effects on the food stored in cooler. Do you know where I can find codes?
thank's for the info.

[Rojodiablo]

Thank you for the reply. My major concern was the types of materials allowable in use of sealing, water proofing. I am affraid to use normal grade sealers due to residual orders and there effects on the food stored in cooler. Do you know where I can find codes?
thank's for the info.

You can just call the building dept. and talk to an inspector. They are pretty helpful people. As for sealants, silicone is a preferred sealant, as it will not contribute to any mold growth, and it does not deteriorate. I did sheetmetal for 9 years, we almost exclusively used either silicone, or 3m 5200 marine sealant on food supply equipment.

[wagin]

OOp's, I wrote residual orders...ment residual odor effects on the food currently stored in freezer, silicon has a strong odor that may contaminate present food? Thank you for replys.

[Rojodiablo]

OOp's, I wrote residual orders...ment residual odor effects on the food currently stored in freezer, silicon has a strong odor that may contaminate present food? Thank you for replys.

The smell is the special vinegar based etcher/ bonder that is in it. Once it dries, the odor takes orders, and leaves!!!!:laugh: It won't stink up the other foods.

[Jarmizz]

I pretty sure the smell is there to tell you the silicone is stick cureing (sp)...among other things..

One thing to note :- When I use to install alloy bathrooms we used alot of silicone with great results...however when smoothing the silicone out to make a pretty finish and to make sure it seals 100% try not to use your finger as it has bacteria on it and will cause the silicone to grow mould after a few months or years. Trust me on this...I learnt the hard way.

Also if you must use your finger, spit on it as the spit will stop the silicone from sticking to your finger...I still use this trick to this day..

Hope Ive been of some help!

Oh and Joint Compond will help if you put alittle on the pop rivet before you put it in the hole...this will stop corrosion...

[wagin]

thank you for the great info...I've fabed and installed lots of sheet metal jobs in the past. The trick I found for smoothing silicone is to use a damp roll of paper towels, towel on finger swip, new section of towl on nest finger swip...works well but uses lots of paper towels. My biggest concern about formintioned job was that the cooler is stocked with food and I do not want to tant said food with the silicone odor.

[Teddco]

"Also if you must use your finger, spit on it as the spit will stop the silicone from sticking to your finger...I still use this trick to this day."

Spritz some Armor-All on the finger you're using to smooth the joint - the silicone sealant won't stick to your finger and you won't have silicone sealant or the taste of acetic acid in your mouth. Another option is to let the sealant bead alone until it sets up and then score it along the intersecting surfaces with a razor blade (or equivalent sharp-edged device) and lift the excess sealant out of the joint. The result looks like a zero-fillet weld.

[MoonRise]

If you are going to put silicone or other sealant there, the food will have to be removed and the freezer will have to come up to 'room' temperature.

Most silicone sealants won't cure or set at sub-zero temps. :o

That, and the acetic acid (vinegar) odor has to dissipate after the sealant has cured.

Regarding the required codes, call the applicable code/inspecting/permit office and ask them. It might be just has to be a floor, or it might have to meet wash-down sanitary code.

[rlitman]

All of the GE silicone sealants I've used say that they are safe for incidental food contact once cured.

BTW, I just saw a spray bottle of "silicone bead smoother" at a hardware store.
Just spray it on, and wipe with your finger.
Its contents:
Pure isopropyl alcohol.

[MoroneysWelding]

not to sure if you have to worry too much about the odor because most walking are like a vacuum where as they suck 90% of the air to keep the room cold as possible. But as mentioned above you probably have to bring area up to at lest 50 - 60 degrees to set the silicone