View Full Version : Bacon?
10-05-2008, 09:27 PM
Ive been told that when im welding it should sound like frying bacon. Ive been doing alot of practicing and found that when it does sound like bacon the weld looks like crap and has way to much splatter. Does that mean im running it to hot or to fast?
10-05-2008, 09:43 PM
Could you list all the parameters:
Material: Mild Steel? Thickness?
New Steel? Dirty?
Remove Mill Scale or Oils?
Wire: Solid Wire or Fluxcore
Gas: AR/CO2 or Straight Co2
10-06-2008, 06:30 AM
Cambell Hausfeld 80 fluxcore .030, 22 gauge steel stripped of paint and cleaned with degreaser. When I hear a slight hum in the weld I get a good bead and there is a great blue hue around the weld, but when it starts to sizzle it seems to have more splatter. Also alot of brown burn marking. I generally do my welds at about 1 inch at a time and try to keep my ground within 6 inches of it.
10-06-2008, 08:44 AM
I associate that frying bacon sound with stick welding, Globular transfer or short circuit transfer MIG; not spray transfer MIG or Fluxcore welding.
Based on your description, run your machine so you get that slight hum. When I've run fluxcore, it's sounded like a hiss, or perhaps a hum, when it was running good. Whatever the noise, you shouldn't have very much splatter and the bead should have a uniform appearance with no porosity. The slag on the fluxcore bead should be easily removed with a chipping hammer or it should self-peel.
How much stick out are your holding when you're welding? Fluxcore is sensitive to stick out. You need enough heat to drive off any moisture absorbed in the flux coating on the wire. The stickout is controled by the voltage setting on the machine and the heat or amperage is controlled by the wire feed rate. You need enough voltage for ~3/4"-1" of stickout from the contact tip. The wire feed rate should be set high enough that the bead runs smoothly.
You probably don't have direct, independent control over both the voltage and feedrate with that Campbell Hausfield welder. So set the machine so you get that smooth hum, and a good looking bead.
If you still have doubts, weld a couple practice pieces and then bend them with a vice and a hammer or big pliers. You should have complete fusion, assuming you started with a small gap between the base metal, and the weld should survive a 180° bend without cracking. If the weld breaks, something is wrong and you'll need to experiement with your machine settings and or welding techinique to figure out the problem.
Last thought. A picture or two of the welds you made with each type of settings might help the forum troubleshoot your concerns.
10-06-2008, 09:27 AM
Im assuming by stick out you mean the length of wire sticking out of my tip. It is roughtly 3/4 of an inch. Any longer and It all melts away and any closer it clogs my tip. I try to leave maybe a 1/16 between the metals when doing a butt joint. Welder has only a high and lo setting for heat and i run the wire spead on 4 which is like saying my stereo goes upto 11 on the volume because I have no real referance of another machine. It is more of a hiss than a hum. Do they make a thinner fluxcore than the .030 Im using, or is that not a factor. When Im running a bead i try to use small C strokes overlapping them by half keeping my tip at roughly a 45 degree from the weld. I just started asking for advice and up til now been pretty much self teaching and experimenting. Ive got spot welds down pretty descent and am now trying my hand at joints and lap welds.
Also found this. Is it worth $450 Lincoln Tig welder single phase 208 230 480 volts AC/DC ALSO HAVE SOME POWCON MIGS AND TIG AND 2 Miller water coolers,cash only!
10-06-2008, 02:08 PM
You don't need to do Circles on 22g- just drag the gun.
The Bacon Sound is relative anyway. Yer just cookin' the Bacon differently:cool2:
Sounds like you have the machine set where it is supposed to be for what you are doing.
Craig in Denver
10-06-2008, 08:26 PM
The photo of that welder; it's most likely a transformer power source. And they're power hungry. My Syncrowave 250 needs a 100 amp circuit breaker.
For sheet metal, I'd rather use solid .023 with gas. It's a much cleaner process (no spatter). One of the Lincoln, Miller or Hobart 140's with a bottle, is made for body work.
10-06-2008, 08:43 PM
The bacon sound is for stick, and I don't exactly agree with it. Maybe for 6010, but not 7018. With mig or flux core, I like a nice even zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Only changing if I am weaving.
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