View Full Version : Snow plow
01-24-2004, 10:51 AM
Here is one for the plow site maybe,, I have the easy hook up method.
Its kind of a welding project, like most good work its hidden. I made my own plow mount. It was 400$ from the dealer and it took me 2 days 13 years ago. I coppied the Western design for the frame to a certain extent and made it unitized and an all welded assembly. The plow frame mounts to the truck as a clip with the bumber installed afterwards. Most plow frames need to have the bolts checked. This one stays tight, the rest of the year with the pump removed it does double duty as a deer killer. If I want to tow a truck my towbar goes right on it. I use my pallet jack to mount and unmount it, takes about a minute and is very easy. The plow itself is just an old junker.
01-24-2004, 11:18 AM
Sberry, Id sure like to see the underside of the mount. I refabbed a chevy plow mount to fit my ford truck. It does the job and held up last winter, but I dont have complete confidence that it is as strong as a factory mount. They wanted $550 for factory mount :blush2: .
01-24-2004, 01:12 PM
Hey S, how far back did you go with the push arms?
The 9 footer on my 66 Chevy pushes all the way from the front of the rear spring mounts.
I built that one myself buying only the Quadrant bar A frame & blade from Western, and the only failure on the machine was the quadrant bar. Western just didn't put enough steel in that thing, and I ripped the reenforcment strip loose from the parent metal.
Good part was I had access to a 100 ton press to straighten it back up, and reenforce it.
01-24-2004, 05:05 PM
I had it off last winter rebuilding the truck and its so concealed for pics, I will take a look and see. That was kind of my point about buying, the 550 went in my pocket and I improved the ground clearance a lot. I didnt need all the adjustments that the factory had cause it fits this truck. Those adjustments were fine for the installer and the inventory guy but were a lot of points to loosen and lost ground clearance for nuthin. This thing is super strong,, like an ols teel box beam RR bridge. Instead of bolts the angles are all but welded and overlapped. The 2 clips I ad to the frame are double bolted where the factory had one and hook to an additional cross angle iron. Its way overkill because all the push drives it up against the frame on the back attatchments. The front of the clip actually cups over the nose of the truck frame and then cams, or levers into position. The piece resembles half of a clam stype pulp wood grapple. I really reduced the tendancy to want to twist and shear on the bolts doing this. The stresses applied to the frame of the truck are more like that of a pool cue than a lever.
01-24-2004, 05:23 PM
It just doesnt lend itself well to pics, most of the important details are hidden. 4 aditional cross angles in the whole assembly.
01-24-2004, 05:31 PM
01-24-2004, 05:36 PM
Here are the stiffners I put from the corner of the bumper to the frame, flat bar in back triagulates it. Keeps from ripping the bumper up thru the fender and headlight assy when you hit them rats with hooves. The plow mount does it for the center to proterct the rad, and if you have no plow a 3x3 angle bolted between the frame ends behind the bumper helps. Doesnt allow the bumper to wishbone thru the grill and radiator.
01-24-2004, 05:41 PM
I been driving the same truck 12 years.
01-24-2004, 06:53 PM
I'm kinda new here. What welding process did you use. Stick or mig?
01-24-2004, 10:48 PM
Back in that day I used sticks. That was 7018 DCRP Probably flame cut all the pieces too.
01-24-2004, 11:40 PM
S where you been? You're one of the few things I missed from the Ho-Ching site. Glad you finally decided to come see us again. David
01-25-2004, 02:08 AM
I hadda rope S & drag his butt over here.
He was hangin around HoFart hopein some pretty girl was gonna look there for him.
I think he was pinin for Mike Sherman's sister the tree surgeon cause he figured she had chain saws of her own.
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