View Full Version : Welding aluminum block in CT
Mrbowtie26
11-12-2008, 08:38 PM
I have a LS2 aluminum block that the starter outer bolt hole cracked down the middle and the tab broke off. I still have the piece that broke off. I removed the enging from the car and need to bring it to a prof. welder. Any ideas who in the state of CT is an excellent cast aluminum welder ? I am located in West Haven, CT. I assume it should be TIG welded ? Also I've read on this forum that it is 319-T5 aluminum, not sure if thats accurate though.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks
Ron H.
p.s. I am not sure if this the right forum so if not please direct me. I also posted this in general welding.
ciggs
01-01-2009, 09:41 PM
an interesting delmia, its very tightly percise block not alot of forgive in it.
The Alloy 319 has good ductility, hardness, fatigue strength, and machinability, but the alloy fails to meet the requirements for tensile strength, yield strength, pressure tightness, and fluidity.
Alloy 319 is a 6Si-3.5 Cu alloy with 1.0 Fe (max) and 1.0 Zn (max). The T5 heat treatment is a thermal aging at 310F .
Alloy 319 has good casting characteristics and machinability.
Typical applications for sand castings of 319 include internal combustion and diesel engine crankcases; gasoline and oil tanks; and oil pans.
Its risky business with cast sometimes, might be better just to fill in where the bolt were and rebore it.
not cheap blocks either, what caused it to crack there ?
rbertalotto
01-02-2009, 01:54 PM
Check this out
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fC9d1AroXR4
rbertalotto
01-02-2009, 01:56 PM
Clearer version here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=do2zYHwp78Y&feature=related
rbertalotto
01-02-2009, 02:00 PM
http://www.aluminumrepair.com/?src=google&gclid=CKH83uPI8JcCFQEpGgodvyWzDA
William McCormick Jr
01-19-2009, 10:02 PM
Check this out
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fC9d1AroXR4
The five hundred degrees below aluminum's melting point seems a bit low. A little overheating and you could experience a failure in the material. Because there is probably some annealing point for the solder as well, as the melting point.
We usually just build up the ears with 4043. It has always worked well. We rarely save the ear. We just use filler rod. Re-drill or re-drill and tap.
Sincerely,
William McCormick
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