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jsmiller02
05-05-2005, 09:58 PM
Just got this welder, with an Onan engine that was knocking when previous owner took it out of service with the intention of rebuilding, but never did. I believe this machine was built in '79.
I have a few questions:

1.) It it possible to get replacement parts for the welder?

2.) If it's too cost prohibitive to rebuild the engine, can I repower with something else?

Welder SN: JE804901
Engine
Onan CCKA-MS/3670J
SN: D790409870

Thanks!!

TBill
05-06-2005, 10:56 PM
Have you looked on the Miller web page for info? I have an old Big 40 that I downloaded the owners manual. I get parts for the welder itself from Gulf Coast Oxygen. I don't know if they are outside of Houston or not. Some of the Onan parts may be available at your NAPA Auto parts store. Take the serial number and go check.

jsmiller02
05-07-2005, 12:27 AM
I found the manual for the welder on the Miller website. Didn't know NAPA carried some ONAN parts...I'll definitely check that out, as soon as I can obtain a parts manual for it. Thanks for the info!

TBill
05-07-2005, 08:13 AM
I found the manual for the welder on the Miller website. Didn't know NAPA carried some ONAN parts...I'll definitely check that out, as soon as I can obtain a parts manual for it. Thanks for the info!

Check any good auto supply, CarQuest, NAPA, O'Rielly's, etc. I don't think Auto Zone can help. If you have a home town owned auto supply that would be the best place to start. They may not have Onan parts in stock, but can order them.

DDA52
05-07-2005, 08:04 PM
According to your serial number, the machine is an '84. The prefix for '79 is HK.

The Onan CCK's were good motors, but they are still Onans which means they are pricey in the parts dept. You can repower with a Kohler or whatever easily. It is just a matter of adaptingthe output shaft to the welder. I'm not familiar with the generator connection for that machine. You may need to fabricate some kind of plate with a bearing and stub shaft to make the generator a stand alone unit. That way, you can put any motor you want on it. You just use the shaft couplers like they use to hook up log splitters and other equipment.

Another thought is to look at Ebay for another motor. I got an Onan for my Bobcat there for about half the cost of a new one.

jsmiller02
06-01-2005, 06:06 PM
Well, we've got just about all the parts we need lined up, but we ran into another issue. The nameplate was painted over, and Miller no longer carries a replacement. Does anybody here own one of these or know somebody who does? I'd like to just get some digital pictures of one so we can get a reproduction made. Thanks!!

TBill
06-01-2005, 07:09 PM
Get you some B-12 Chemtool, it will dissolve the paint down to the original paint. May take severl applications and an old toothbrush.

DDA52
06-01-2005, 10:46 PM
You could get a label maker and have at it. The old ones had trouble with the UV destroying the paint. Strange that Miller doesn't have any. Just saw a new Blue Star 2E plate the other day.

jsmiller02
06-02-2005, 10:21 AM
Thanks for the replies so far guys.
TBill - we'll try the B12 tonight
DDA52 - The Miller factory told my parts supplier that they no longer have the faceplate for my model. It's gone obsolete.

As far as using a label maker, can someone give me info on what the settings are for the rough and fine adjustments? Would be a good starting point.

DDA52
06-02-2005, 11:20 AM
Doesn't surprise me. Just wondered 'cuz he new 2E plate was an older one...say 1978 or so. I guess they made more of the Blue Stars than Blue Chargers.

All the info is on Miller website in the owners manuals. Here is the link to yours.

http://millerwelds.com/om/o425_mil.pdf

Your coarse amperage ranges are:
min (25) -40
40-55
55-75
70-105
90-135
115-165
140-max ( 200)
The fine range is just 0-100%. If it is like the Blue Star, 50% should be straight up at 12 o'clock.

jsmiller02
06-02-2005, 11:23 PM
Do the numbers run clockwise or counter clockwise?

DDA52
06-03-2005, 12:20 AM
Clockwise, like all Millers.

jsmiller02
06-03-2005, 01:15 PM
Thanks DDA52...I figured that out after looking at some other Millers on line...just newer than what I have....
But here's where it gets interesting....I've got the cover off, and looking at the actiual find adustment part from the inside, it appears to be configured where 0 would start at about 1:00 and 100 at 11:00, with 50 being at 6:00, but the pointer's busted off the knob, so it may be inverted in relation to the front.

DDA52
06-03-2005, 02:25 PM
Could be...or maybe some one put it in upside down...who knows. It has been too long since I've had my hands on one for me to be very accurate as to exact position. I'd say, if it works as is, let it work. :D

jsmiller02
06-03-2005, 02:27 PM
:laugh: I'll let ya know if it works when we get the motor back on it....

len
06-25-2005, 01:14 AM
JS,
I'm new here, just registered. I was looking for the rubber boot which goes on the shaft of the throttle solenoid (electric start)for the same machine. I've been searching and everyone tells me I've got to purchase the entire solenoid to get the rubber boot! Without the boot the shaft falls out of the solenoid.

Anyways, about your machine. You need the faceplate? I'll have to check. I've got a spare parts machine in my barn and I can't remember for sure but I think the entire front is "kapoot". It was ran over/into on a job site!! They removed the engine before I acquired it. I can check out the dials positon for you. The welder I use is a 1984 model. The first two letters of the serial # determine the year. Mine's JE. You can email me direct at: ljensen at yahoo dot com if you'd like.
len

jsmiller02
06-27-2005, 12:44 PM
Len,
I'll email you tonight. I may have a lead for that boot you're looking for. We had to buy a new solenoid for our engine...:cry: Not cheap...
I've also got some questions about that parts machine. I'll be in touch soon...

js

jsmiller02
06-27-2005, 11:02 PM
Tried to send you an email...came back saying your yahoo addy doesn't exist...

The replacement solenoids are manufactured by an outfit called Woodward.
Here's the link: http://www.woodward.com/engine/gaseng/gaseng2/sol_spsw.cfm
I'd contact them to see if you can get a replacement boot.

jsmiller02

jsmiller02
06-28-2005, 11:37 PM
len,
Shoot me an email when you get a chance...
jsmiller02@grandecom.net

jsmiller02
01-20-2006, 10:18 PM
Well, we gave up on bringing the Blue Charger back to life. Might be a good parts machine. We've put the motor on an old manual start AEA-200L. Now we're trying to figure out how to set up the starting and charging circuits. Just wanted to update.:)

RAY TOWNSEND
11-10-2007, 06:53 PM
I have the same welder. It stops putting out voltage at the receptacles when it goes to high speed. Does anyone know why?Thanks.

West Baden Iron
11-16-2007, 07:03 PM
Hey Ray,

I have a AEAD 200LE (not a Blue charger) and the two receptacles lose power at high rpm because the welder does not generate 60 hertz power at that rpm. It only generates 60 hertz at idle. The single receptable generates 100 hertz at weld rpm and will power lights, a grinder, etc.

So, your receptacles should only work when the machine is at idle and the switch is in the power position.

Hope this helps,

Thanks,

Jason

TRIPLE
02-09-2008, 11:43 AM
parts for AEAD 200LE wanted
Anyone have or know where to find used or reasonable parts? I need a 071609 weld/idle card and a 081359 transformer for the power idle. Welder works great but she surges when in power mode. Miller is over $200.00 each.

TRIPLE
02-09-2008, 12:13 PM
Sorry for the post. I put new thread in.

doit55
02-27-2008, 01:36 AM
I all so have aead 200le welder and am looking for any information an this welder it was working fine but stop working on the welding circuit but the power circuit works fine does any body have any ides the s/n. for this welder is L247230

Hammack_Welding
02-27-2008, 01:54 AM
I have seen one of those welders do the same thing you describe, and I believe it was due to a bad capacitor. It's been a few years ago, so my memory could be wrong, but I want to say that was the problem.

doit55
03-13-2008, 03:24 PM
so where are the capacitor this welder as for as I can tel dose not have circuit board. and would any one know what year this welder would be the se no is L247230

Cruizer
03-13-2008, 10:09 PM
Are you really sure thats the serial#, cause it doesn't show up on the miller site. And no you don't have acess to the site.

Cruizer
03-13-2008, 10:19 PM
so where are the capacitor this welder as for as I can tel dose not have circuit board. and would any one know what year this welder would be the se no is L247230


You got 4 boards in there, pop the top the cover off, 2 or 3 of them are sitting on the right side (looking at the front face).

I'm looking at the online service manual right now, and again you don't have access to this manual, and its too large to download

weldersales
03-14-2008, 09:51 AM
Back in the 60's, Miller used one letter and 6 digits. If that is what you have, your machine has the old cast iron CCK Onan engine. If so, the right side is hinged and underneath the door is a large knife switch that is thrown one way for power at 1800 rpm and the other for weld at 3000 rpm. The engine should have three throttle positions - idle, 1800 power, and 3000 weld. weldersales

doit55
03-15-2008, 04:25 PM
weldersales this sound like the welder that I have so how would I get any info on this welder it does have the kife switch on the one side it all so has the 4 plug that go to the work with a switch at the bottom voltage

doit55
03-15-2008, 04:29 PM
weldersales this sound like the welder that I have so how would I get any info on this welder it does have the kife switch on the one side it all so has the 4 plug that go to the work with a switch at the bottom an a control that plugs in to the one side does this sound right

weldersales
03-15-2008, 09:57 PM
Ok, let's start with the welder itself. Looks like Miller starts with 1979 models if we go through normal channels in their internet manual section. That might be a waste of time if you really have a 'L' six digit serial number- means you have a 60's model, so we need to concentrate on that. How about I send you a picture of what I think you have, or you send me a picture of what you actually have and we will start from there.
If you have the knife switch on the inside of the welder, have you moved the lever over to the side that has multiple contacts, and then tried the weld output? If, as I understand it, you have power now, then we know your exciter is working as well as the power windings. If that be the case, it is very likely the rest of your stator is good and the only thing keeping you from welding is switching from power to weld, attaching leads, striking an arc - making sparks. weldersales

doit55
03-24-2008, 03:49 AM
I do not have a way to send you so if you would sent me a picture it would be much apriceate thank you

weldersales
03-25-2008, 12:16 PM
Does your machine have this switch? It is on the left side, not the right - my mistake.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/weldersales/2360828253/
weldersales

doit55
03-28-2008, 01:32 AM
yes it does have the switch on the left side and on the front of the welder it has the plugs for to set voltage on the uper part of the one end and the two DC plugs are bout half way down and on the bottom are the plugs for AC with a switch to go from AC to DC on the right side their is plug for a fine adjuster to plug in

mammothman
12-30-2008, 10:59 PM
I have just obtained a AEAD 200LE Miller welding machine with sn:JB578948. Is there anyone out there that can assist me? It will strike but it will not maintain an arc. I have noticed that the governor does not kick in and I am thinking that that is the reason it's not allowing an arc. Please help me if you can.

duaneb55
12-31-2008, 12:37 AM
I have just obtained a AEAD 200LE Miller welding machine with sn:JB578948. Is there anyone out there that can assist me? It will strike but it will not maintain an arc. I have noticed that the governor does not kick in and I am thinking that that is the reason it's not allowing an arc. Please help me if you can.

First of all, welcome to the forum mammthman.:waving:

Second, here's the manual for your unit http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o411l_mil.pdf that can be downloaded from the Miller site. Before you do anything else, look it over to familiarize yourself with the proper unit operation for welder and generator use.

Once you've done that, referring to the wiring diagram, start your troubleshooting by checking the fuse - F1 - which should be located in the wiring harness under the fuel tank. A failed fuse will cause the unit to remain at low speed when an arc is struck. If F1 is OK (check it with an ohm meter or test light not just visually) or you had to replace F1, check the idle solenoid operation by placing the Automatic Idle Control in the OFF position. If it does not activate there is a good chance the throttle solenoid has failed. Recheck F1 as a shorted auto idle solenoid will blow the fuse when the Automatic Idle Control is switched to the OFF position. If that all checks out OK, check all the connections at the Automatic Idle Control board PC1 and all related circuits and connectors.

That's enough for now as I don't want to get too far ahead. Let us know how you make out.

sunline
12-31-2008, 11:24 AM
I have one of these machines as well. When I got it home I found a surging problem that I have mostly cured now with a tune up i.e. points condensor, wires, cleaning the carb and checking valve lash. Ran a can of sea foam down the throat and some in the gas and it is running nearly perfect though it still misses slightly at high speed no load. Under load it welds perfectly and is very smooth with only an occasional miss. Surging is mostly gone now as it settles in after a few surges instead of continuously as before. So I am nearly there. I can make the machine run like new when I pull the choke out part way so I am thinking I still have a carb issue. The machine has the original vacuume fuel pump but is out of the circuit now as the fuel tank is relocated over the carb. Is it needed for proper ops? Thanks, Steve
Also have the idle up not working so I assume the board is croaked. Mine is an early 1986 model according to the miller site.

duaneb55
12-31-2008, 11:58 AM
I have one of these machines as well. When I got it home I found a surging problem that I have mostly cured now with a tune up i.e. points condensor, wires, cleaning the carb and checking valve lash. Ran a can of sea foam down the throat and some in the gas and it is running nearly perfect though it still misses slightly at high speed no load. Under load it welds perfectly and is very smooth with only an occasional miss. Surging is mostly gone now as it settles in after a few surges instead of continuously as before. So I am nearly there. I can make the machine run like new when I pull the choke out part way so I am thinking I still have a carb issue. The machine has the original vacuume fuel pump but is out of the circuit now as the fuel tank is relocated over the carb. Is it needed for proper ops? Thanks, Steve
Also have the idle up not working so I assume the board is croaked. Mine is an early 1986 model according to the miller site.

sunline,
There are two common causes of the surging you've described.
1) Governor 'Power Sensitivity Spring' located in incorrect hole (too close to governor lever shaft). An aged spring can loose a little of its tension and over time result in mild to severe surging. The typical solution is simply move the spring to one hole further out on the governor lever. A complete check of all speed adjustments would then be in order.
2) Carburetor idle mixture too lean. If the cause, the solution is to richen the idle mixture slightly by turning the idle mixture screw couterclockwise 1/8 to maybe 1/4 turn.

Based on your statements "...it still misses slightly at high speed no load." and "I can make the machine run like new when I pull the choke out part way..." tells me it's most likely the idle mixture is too lean and the 1/8 to 1/4 CCW turn adjustment above is in order and I would start there.

As for your auto idle, Does the unit speed up to weld 3000rpm with the Automatic Idle Control in the OFF position? If not, check the fuse supplying power to the throttle solenoid as a failed fuse will prevent the system from working. If it does, you'll have to dig a little deeper.

sunline
12-31-2008, 12:37 PM
Thanks Duane; welder runs up to weld speed with switch in either position. It will not drop to idle when in the on position. My spring is in the outer hole on the governor arm so cant go there. I have followed all the procedures for adjusting the carb; The idle adjustment screw does not seem to help, anywhere I have set it. Start at 7/8s out as per book and keep turning out and no change. Now it seems to me if I can get the thing to purr with the choke partially set then maybe the main jet is undersize? With the choke set partially it doesnt smoke at all and runs really smooth, no missing at all. I have load banked with some electric heaters to 4500 watts and it runs better under load and have also hooked up my feeder with fcaw and cranked it up really hot and pulled the trigger on some really long runs and it welds great. I dont have a tack so I set the speed to put out 120V at the sockets. At weld speed my OCV is about 49v. Some where I found a post that talked of the scrs on the idle board going out but cant find it anymore. When I got it I had a mouse nest in the genset end, it didnt like the ride home, was sleeping quite soundly when I found him. Not dead but nearly. Thanks again, Steve
PS I finally got the secondary jet out and cleaned it ran better. The jet has 4 small holes on the side of the tube and a small hole in the end. The side holes are clear when I shoot carb cleaner down the middle but the end hole is apparently plugged. I was real reluctuant to get agressive with a tip cleaner there. Does the small hole at the bottom end open and to where? it is on a point at the bottom end of the jet.

sunline
12-31-2008, 01:10 PM
Here are a few pics of the machine. Got the welder with a nearly new ln25 and 60 some odd pounds of wire and a stinger with some old lead for 1200 bucks. Not to bad a deal though have seen better. Got to rig up a better muffler as it is really loud...
http://mvsunline.com/welding/AEAD200le.jpg
http://mvsunline.com/welding/AEAD200le1.jpg
http://mvsunline.com/welding/AEAD200le2.jpg

duaneb55
12-31-2008, 01:34 PM
Thanks Duane; welder runs up to weld speed with switch in either position. It will not drop to idle when in the on position. My spring is in the outer hole on the governor arm so cant go there. I have followed all the procedures for adjusting the carb; The idle adjustment screw does not seem to help, anywhere I have set it. Start at 7/8s out as per book and keep turning out and no change. Now it seems to me if I can get the thing to purr with the choke partially set then maybe the main jet is undersize? With the choke set partially it doesnt smoke at all and runs really smooth, no missing at all. I have load banked with some electric heaters to 4500 watts and it runs better under load and have also hooked up my feeder with fcaw and cranked it up really hot and pulled the trigger on some really long runs and it welds great. I dont have a tack so I set the speed to put out 120V at the sockets. At weld speed my OCV is about 49v. Some where I found a post that talked of the scrs on the idle board going out but cant find it anymore. When I got it I had a mouse nest in the genset end, it didnt like the ride home, was sleeping quite soundly when I found him. Not dead but nearly. Thanks again, Steve
PS I finally got the secondary jet out and cleaned it ran better. The jet has 4 small holes on the side of the tube and a small hole in the end. The side holes are clear when I shoot carb cleaner down the middle but the end hole is apparently plugged. I was real reluctuant to get agressive with a tip cleaner there. Does the small hole at the bottom end open and to where? it is on a point at the bottom end of the jet.

Sure sounds as you've covered all the bases for sure. As for that carb siphion tube, the hole in the center is a metering jet and if plugged will affect performance. Spray carb cleaner is good but still can't do the job of a good soak type chemical carb cleaner (the nasty smelling stuff). Most auto supply stores have small 1 gallon cans so you don't have to buy the big 5 gallon version. Some of the gallon units (paint can style) usually come with a small parts basket to hold the small parts and make it easier to keep track of everything. I'd suggest another carburetor dismantle and parts soak for 30-45 minutes in the above described carburetor/parts cleaner, soapy warm water rinse and a good blow dry with compressed air to clean out that jet. Take the necessary precautions as that stuff burns the eyes and can irritate the skin.

sunline
12-31-2008, 02:58 PM
Thanks Duane you the man! Soaked the jet and gently ran a wire through it and now engine runs like a kitten! Dead smooth no miss and push choke in to stop so throat is wide open and it idles to perfection and all the miss at the top is gone. Now I have to figure out a way to measure rpm to set high speed. OCV now is down to 27v. The auto idle also seems to work now. That is another mystery. Thanks again, Steve
PS on further investigation it idles down but wont pick up the speed when I strike an arc. Other than that it runs to perfection, arc is smooth and it puts out good power to the recepticles on the face. Thanks again for the help and if you ever in SW WA state Ill buy you beer! Steve Also I had my meter set on AC when I measured the OCV; on DC it is running 55v.

mammothman
12-31-2008, 07:13 PM
Thanks for the info Duane. Unfortunately, I haven't found the fuse yet. Heck, I don't even know if I would be able to identify if I did see it. I did try the auto idle off technique but it still did not idle up. This weekend, I will take that hood off and hunt for the fuse. Again, thanks for the help and I will be staying in touch with my progress.

lugweld
12-31-2008, 07:34 PM
Ha!

Sunline,:eek:

That welder looks like it is jet propelled with that muffler set up. With the right wheels, I wonder if that thing would push itself across the floor?

sunline
12-31-2008, 09:11 PM
Not anymore, I got tired of walking into the thing as it gets hot. Now it ejects straight up. Got a little quieter as I sealed up the most egregious leaks....

duaneb55
01-01-2009, 12:57 AM
Thanks Duane you the man! Soaked the jet and gently ran a wire through it and now engine runs like a kitten! Dead smooth no miss and push choke in to stop so throat is wide open and it idles to perfection and all the miss at the top is gone. Now I have to figure out a way to measure rpm to set high speed. OCV now is down to 27v. The auto idle also seems to work now. That is another mystery. Thanks again, Steve
PS on further investigation it idles down but wont pick up the speed when I strike an arc. Other than that it runs to perfection, arc is smooth and it puts out good power to the recepticles on the face. Thanks again for the help and if you ever in SW WA state Ill buy you beer! Steve Also I had my meter set on AC when I measured the OCV; on DC it is running 55v.
That's great news sunline. Good job on the fix.:drinkup:

As for checking the speeds, this http://www.google.com/products?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4SUNA_enUS248US248&q=82682+stewart+warner+handheld+tachometer&um=1&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&resnum=1&ct=title is what I use. I inherited mine from my father who inherited it from his who used it for setting the speeds on thrashing machines and balers making it around 75 years old.



Thanks for the info Duane. Unfortunately, I haven't found the fuse yet. Heck, I don't even know if I would be able to identify if I did see it. I did try the auto idle off technique but it still did not idle up. This weekend, I will take that hood off and hunt for the fuse. Again, thanks for the help and I will be staying in touch with my progress.
Please do mammothman. If the engine doesn't speed up with the Automatic Idle Control in the OFF position, it's an indication of a blown fuse F1, defective throttle solenoid, defective Automatic Idle Control switch or some type of open in either the power supply of ground circuits of the system.

Did you ever download the manual http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o411l_mil.pdf for your unit? It can prove extremely valuable in troubleshooting let alone assuring proper normal operation and adjustments.

mammothman
01-01-2009, 06:41 PM
That's great news sunline. Good job on the fix.:drinkup:

As for checking the speeds, this http://www.google.com/products?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4SUNA_enUS248US248&q=82682+stewart+warner+handheld+tachometer&um=1&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&resnum=1&ct=title is what I use. I inherited mine from my father who inherited it from his who used it for setting the speeds on thrashing machines and balers making it around 75 years old.



Please do mammothman. If the engine doesn't speed up with the Automatic Idle Control in the OFF position, it's an indication of a blown fuse F1, defective throttle solenoid, defective Automatic Idle Control switch or some type of open in either the power supply of ground circuits of the system.

Did you ever download the manual http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o411l_mil.pdf for your unit? It can prove extremely valuable in troubleshooting let alone assuring proper normal operation and adjustments.
Yes, I did download the manual. Thanks for that address. I replaced the Automatic Idle Control switch first because it was broken off on the ON position. I raised the hood and took the gas tank completely off. I still did not see a fuse. What page in the manual can I find it's location and identity?

duaneb55
01-01-2009, 08:41 PM
Paragraph 9.9, page 26 of the .pdf file, page 20 of the document. Top left of the page, just a description - no diagram.

paweldor
01-02-2009, 06:08 AM
Well, we've got just about all the parts we need lined up, but we ran into another issue. The nameplate was painted over, and Miller no longer carries a replacement. Does anybody here own one of these or know somebody who does? I'd like to just get some digital pictures of one so we can get a reproduction made. Thanks!!


What name plate are you looking for. I have an AEAD200LE and would be glad to send you some pics.

sunline
01-02-2009, 02:01 PM
I was so pleased with the way my machine now runs that I did something I rarely do. I normally have no problem with a tool showing signs of use but for some reason this seemed appropriate. Plus it was less than 5 bucks... Thanks again to all on this board for the help and invaluable resources.
http://mvsunline.com/welding/1AEAD200le.jpg
http://mvsunline.com/welding/2AEAD200le.jpg
http://mvsunline.com/welding/3AEAD200le1.jpg

mammothman
01-02-2009, 04:06 PM
Hey Duane, I couldn't find that darn fuse(F1). I followed those wires from the throttle solenoid all the way to the CIRCUIT CARD ASSEMBLY where they attach. I did put a test light on the throttle solenoid and it appears not be getting in fire. I don't know if that means anything. That was just another recommendation by someone.

duaneb55
01-02-2009, 05:28 PM
Hey Duane, I couldn't find that darn fuse(F1). I followed those wires from the throttle solenoid all the way to the CIRCUIT CARD ASSEMBLY where they attach. I did put a test light on the throttle solenoid and it appears not be getting in fire. I don't know if that means anything. That was just another recommendation by someone.

F1 is between the ignition and throttle solenoid so try it this way. The Automatic Idle Control PC1 terminal 'B' and throttle solenoid gets 12vdc + with the ignition switch and Power / Weld switch in the 'Weld' position. So, place the ignition switch in the 'ON' and Power / Weld selector in the 'Weld' positions and check for 12VDC at PC1 terminal 'B'. If there is F1 is OK and check for 12VDC at the throttle solenoid as well to confirm the positive side of the Automatic Idel Control circuit is intact. You can follow what I'm referring to by reviewing the wiring schematics in your manual.

duaneb55
01-02-2009, 05:34 PM
I was so pleased with the way my machine now runs that I did something I rarely do. I normally have no problem with a tool showing signs of use but for some reason this seemed appropriate. Plus it was less than 5 bucks... Thanks again to all on this board for the help and invaluable resources.

sunline,

That's one fine looking machine. If you ever get tired of it I know a guy that's really partial to 'blue' that you might convince to relieve you of the burden of storing it in your garage/shop.:D:D:drinkup:

mammothman
01-02-2009, 10:32 PM
F1 is between the ignition and throttle solenoid so try it this way. The Automatic Idle Control PC1 terminal 'B' and throttle solenoid gets 12vdc + with the ignition switch and Power / Weld switch in the 'Weld' position. So, place the ignition switch in the 'ON' and Power / Weld selector in the 'Weld' positions and check for 12VDC at PC1 terminal 'B'. If there is F1 is OK and check for 12VDC at the throttle solenoid as well to confirm the positive side of the Automatic Idel Control circuit is intact. You can follow what I'm referring to by reviewing the wiring schematics in your manual.
I still did not find that F1 fuse and unless my ground was no good, I did not get any voltage at P1 terminal B.

duaneb55
01-03-2009, 12:09 AM
I still did not find that F1 fuse and unless my ground was no good, I did not get any voltage at P1 terminal B.
OK, I have to apologize. Even though the manual clearly states it is a fuse F1, a closer look at the wiring diagram shows it being a circuit breaker. Nevertheless, fuse or breaker it is still located in the same place within the circuit - between the Power / Weld selector switch and the throttle solenoid. Starting at the + battery cable if you have to, trace out the positve circuit through one side of the ignition switch, through the 'Weld' side of the Power / Weld switch, through the subject circuit breaker to the throttle solenoid and PC1 terminal 'B' checking for 12VDC at each point as you go. Start from the beginning and don't take any shortcuts or you may miss the source of what appears to be an open power supply circuit.

I don't think I askled before but are you able to follow the wiring schematic OK and understand the various component sysmbols?

mammothman
01-03-2009, 12:33 AM
OK, I have to apologize. Even though the manual clearly states it is a fuse F1, a closer look at the wiring diagram shows it being a circuit breaker. Nevertheless, fuse or breaker it is still located in the same place within the circuit - between the Power / Weld selector switch and the throttle solenoid. Starting at the + battery cable if you have to, trace out the positve circuit through one side of the ignition switch, through the 'Weld' side of the Power / Weld switch, through the subject circuit breaker to the throttle solenoid and PC1 terminal 'B' checking for 12VDC at each point as you go. Start from the beginning and don't take any shortcuts or you may miss the source of what appears to be an open power supply circuit.

I don't think I askled before but are you able to follow the wiring schematic OK and understand the various component sysmbols?
I am an amateur when it comes to electronics. I did take an Electronics class when I was in college only because it was a required course but it does not make me an expert so if you have suggestions, I am all ears. I think I may know what you are pointing out though. I did bypass the wiring and sent a direct current from the battery to the solenoid and it did kick. There is one section of the harness coming from the solenoid that I was not able to check, approximately 10", because it was wrapped with a heat insulator.

No need to apologize. I would not have gotten this far without you and I do greatly appreciate your time.

mammothman
01-10-2009, 12:50 PM
I am an amateur when it comes to electronics. I did take an Electronics class when I was in college only because it was a required course but it does not make me an expert so if you have suggestions, I am all ears. I think I may know what you are pointing out though. I did bypass the wiring and sent a direct current from the battery to the solenoid and it did kick. There is one section of the harness coming from the solenoid that I was not able to check, approximately 10", because it was wrapped with a heat insulator.

No need to apologize. I would not have gotten this far without you and I do greatly appreciate your time.
Hey Duane, I never did find that fuse F1 but I did run a resistance test on the circuit breaker and it was open. I purchased a new one and the welder is working perfect now. Thanks for the ideas.

mammothman
02-03-2009, 03:20 PM
I have came into possesion of some 80T welding rods. Is there anyone that can give me some insight or known experiences with this type rod?

DeDo
11-07-2009, 11:14 PM
I have a Miller AEAD 200LE that I purchased from someone that has changed the original starter switch to a push pull type switch. I purchased the original switch from Miller but is having trouble wiring it up and had tried to get the wiring diagram but have not had any luck...any idea on how this switch is suppose to be wired....it has 9 terminals on the back of the new switch

sealboy_04
08-24-2010, 10:36 PM
Hello Paweldor,
I have a Miller Blue Charger made under the name SkyHook. It most closely resembles a 200 le i think. I was wondering if you still had one and if you had a faceplate or an automatic throttle solenoid for it. Thank you for your time and if you could email me or call me i would appreciate it. email: sealboy04@email.com ; 317.414.1736. Thank you.

-sealboy_04