My Everlast welder plasma cutter CT520D review

[Hammer]

I picked up an Ebay Inverter Welder 2 weeks ago. It showed in descent time, packed pretty nice I thought. Click on any of the names for a large view. These are HUGE photos so they are being posted as links. Be warned, not 56k friendly.

Packing box (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/hammerworx/Bike%20Stuff/Packing.jpg) Corner (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/hammerworx/Bike%20Stuff/Cornerofwelder.jpg) Arc Parts and Ground (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/hammerworx/Bike%20Stuff/Arcparts.jpg) Plasma Torch (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/hammerworx/Bike%20Stuff/Plasmatorch.jpg) TIG torch
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/hammerworx/Bike%20Stuff/TIGTorch.jpg) TIG parts (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/hammerworx/Bike%20Stuff/TIGparts.jpg) Plasma parts (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/hammerworx/Bike%20Stuff/TIGparts.jpg) and the Welder (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/hammerworx/Bike%20Stuff/WelderFront.jpg)

All the pieces and parts, packed in nice. The fit and finish was a little better than Id expect from a Chinese made product. The only thing I saw that could have been better was the way the corners of the cover were left. Its hard to tel from the photo, but they're sharp and bent outward. Its a minor thing but what the hell, thats what a review is for. Since its a 3-n-1 machine, it came with a rat's *** load of stuff. The stinger and ground aren't as heavy say the ones at work, but more than enough for the job. And lets face it, who's gonna worry about running stick with a TIG sitting right there? In the photo with the stinger and ground you'll see an air reg/water separator. Nice add-on I thought. Its a click lock style, nothing special but still nice none the less. The Plasma torch is medium duty just as the Ebay listing stated it would be and came with a few of the consumables. These aren't your run of the mill standard parts. They are Chinese and i doubt will be at your local weld supply. They do seem competitive in price for replacement consumables though just would have been nice to have an industry standard torch with easier to get parts. The TIG torch is pretty much the same way. Its good quality, you're just not going to get replacement parts as easy. On both the Tig and Plasma torches, the micro switch seems pretty heavy but I willing to bet, will smooth out over time. The machine itself has a few bells and whistles. Front mounted LED for AMP readings. Switches for going from TIG to Plasma to Stick. It came with about 6" of 10/3 power cord hanging. They ship these without a plug so you can add the one you need. In my case, I have 220 service to a box on the wall, just no outlet. And I dont play with juice cause it can play back hard if you dont know what youre doing. About the only things you dont get with this machine are, Tungsten, filler rod, Argon bottle and in my case, a reg. I didnt get a reg due to the low price the auction went. I had one with my Clark mini MIG so it isn't a problem. I may have to change fittings on it to match the TIG, but not an issue. Now when running any of these inverters, you'll see its harder to start an arc with the TIG. The easiest way to solve that is by using 2% Ceriated Tungsten instead of the standard 2% Thoriated. Its arcs easier, cleaner and faster. It does cost a couple bucks more but worth it in the end.

As you can see, I haven't said anything about how this thing welds or cuts yet. Well the person who was supposed to come by and do the work is all of a sudden busy. ohmy.gif But I know he needs some welding done very soon, so Im sure he will get unbusy before long. biggrin.gif Its not a large machine. If you have 220 service and 500 to 700 bills, you could solve your needs for a welder and a means to cut. You will need a compressor or compressed air for the plasma, but not having to worry about combustibles in your shop, running out of Ace or Oxy at an odd time or the extra expense of a torch rig seems worth it. As soon as my electrician friend gets back to me, Ill update this on how well its works. Hit me with any questions I may not have covered.

Oh and since I didn't get to play with the new welder, I cleaned and straightened the new shop. Its 24' x 24'. Hell its the reason I bought the house in the first place. The previous owner left a couple things that I started chopping for my benefit. A work table with a top shelf that was in the way becomes a welding table real fast with a grinder and a cutting wheel. Slowly Im getting there.

Work table before (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/hammerworx/Bike%20Stuff/Table.jpg) and after
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/hammerworx/Bike%20Stuff/Choppedtable.jpg) The Shop (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/hammerworx/Bike%20Stuff/Insideshop.jpg)

[mrmikey]

Nice size shop.
One word of advise, if that is a plastic vapour barrier I can see on the ceiling, cover it. If you start grinding in there, which you will, it won't take long to fill it full of pinholes and it won't work as a vapour barrier any more, not to menton a fire hazard. Not only that, filling it full of holes will allow moisture thru to the underside of the roof, not a good thing.....Mike

[Hammer]

Nice size shop.
One word of advise, if that is a plastic vapour barrier I can see on the ceiling, cover it. If you start grinding in there, which you will, it won't take long to fill it full of pinholes and it won't work as a vapour barrier any more, not to menton a fire hazard. Not only that, filling it full of holes will allow moisture thru to the underside of the roof, not a good thing.....Mike
Its paper backed insulation taped in with foil tape.

[EVERLAST_SUPPORT]

Nice shop.

I would open the front rolling door and put a high volume fan at the back door ( am in Florida, temperature might vary where you are).

The insulation does look like plastic, like Mrmikey said. I would just look up all the time when you are making lots of sparks.

[Hammer]

Welder is wired and I have a question. I never used a multi function machine before so ill ask this. When switching from Tig to Plasma, do I need to swap from my Argon to the line from my compressor/air reg? Is this the process Ill have to do to go back and forth from welding to cutting?
Machine runs a nice 6011 bead. Hell Im thinking I could have bought a couple lbs of 5/32 instead of the 3/32. On the arc side it seems like a solid machine. Ill know more the more I get into it.

[EVERLAST_SUPPORT]

You will need to swap the bottle/argon to the compressor, also the torches as well. Some guys make a "Y" hose, some have ball valves. I use 1/4" NPT like the one for my air compressor, quick enough for me. Like swapping an air tool.

Glad you like the unit. The TIG and MMA use the same inverter, so you will like it both ways. TIG is great.

I use the all in one (multi function) unit as well but I have a Cut50 I pull out when I have a project (rather than a repair), cut with the Cut50 and weld with the Super250P. It will speed up bigger projects that way. But if you plan better than me, that unit will make you very happy by itself.

[Hammer]

Kool, I had thought about a Y valve while in the local Harry Homeowner store.

[EVERLAST_SUPPORT]

You will need one with valves to turn one off and the other one as you need them. The air hose one work well for me.

Always turn the gas bottle off when you are done too. A leak can cost you $30-$50.

[Slow]

Howdy! I just hooked mine up last night to 220. I did a few arc welds with it and it was very nice. I don't have much to compare to but it's WAY better than the old lincoln buzz box I was using before (AC). I noticed however that the digital amperage display only goes to 120 on the SMAW setting when it is advertised to do 160. I can't really tell you if it's just off or if something is wrong. Certainly I was surprised by how much heat you get at a setting of '80'. I was burning 1/8" 7014 rod.

[Hammer]

I got mine hooked up and really like the machine. I only had some 6013s sitting around for running the stick side but it seems to have the *** to do what I bought it for.

[Terr]

I noticed however that the digital amperage display only goes to 120 on the SMAW setting when it is advertised to do 160.It probably goes to 160 if the input is 220v. If (as I presume) you set it up for 110v input, then 120 would be the max.

[Slow]

Well it's wired to 220V, so I presume it should be working.. ? Is there a switch I need to throw maybe?

[Celtic Warrior]

I picked up an Ebay Inverter Welder 2 weeks ago. It showed in descent time, packed pretty nice I thought. Click on any of the names for a large view. These are HUGE photos so they are being posted as links. Be warned, not 56k friendly.

Packing box (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/hammerworx/Bike%20Stuff/Packing.jpg) Corner (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/hammerworx/Bike%20Stuff/Cornerofwelder.jpg) Arc Parts and Ground (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/hammerworx/Bike%20Stuff/Arcparts.jpg) Plasma Torch (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/hammerworx/Bike%20Stuff/Plasmatorch.jpg) TIG torch
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/hammerworx/Bike%20Stuff/TIGTorch.jpg) TIG parts (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/hammerworx/Bike%20Stuff/TIGparts.jpg) Plasma parts (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/hammerworx/Bike%20Stuff/TIGparts.jpg) and the Welder (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/hammerworx/Bike%20Stuff/WelderFront.jpg)

All the pieces and parts, packed in nice. The fit and finish was a little better than Id expect from a Chinese made product. The only thing I saw that could have been better was the way the corners of the cover were left. Its hard to tel from the photo, but they're sharp and bent outward. Its a minor thing but what the hell, thats what a review is for. Since its a 3-n-1 machine, it came with a rat's *** load of stuff. The stinger and ground aren't as heavy say the ones at work, but more than enough for the job. And lets face it, who's gonna worry about running stick with a TIG sitting right there? In the photo with the stinger and ground you'll see an air reg/water separator. Nice add-on I thought. Its a click lock style, nothing special but still nice none the less. The Plasma torch is medium duty just as the Ebay listing stated it would be and came with a few of the consumables. These aren't your run of the mill standard parts. They are Chinese and i doubt will be at your local weld supply. They do seem competitive in price for replacement consumables though just would have been nice to have an industry standard torch with easier to get parts. The TIG torch is pretty much the same way. Its good quality, you're just not going to get replacement parts as easy. On both the Tig and Plasma torches, the micro switch seems pretty heavy but I willing to bet, will smooth out over time. The machine itself has a few bells and whistles. Front mounted LED for AMP readings. Switches for going from TIG to Plasma to Stick. It came with about 6" of 10/3 power cord hanging. They ship these without a plug so you can add the one you need. In my case, I have 220 service to a box on the wall, just no outlet. And I dont play with juice cause it can play back hard if you dont know what youre doing. About the only things you dont get with this machine are, Tungsten, filler rod, Argon bottle and in my case, a reg. I didnt get a reg due to the low price the auction went. I had one with my Clark mini MIG so it isn't a problem. I may have to change fittings on it to match the TIG, but not an issue. Now when running any of these inverters, you'll see its harder to start an arc with the TIG. The easiest way to solve that is by using 2% Ceriated Tungsten instead of the standard 2% Thoriated. Its arcs easier, cleaner and faster. It does cost a couple bucks more but worth it in the end.

As you can see, I haven't said anything about how this thing welds or cuts yet. Well the person who was supposed to come by and do the work is all of a sudden busy. ohmy.gif But I know he needs some welding done very soon, so Im sure he will get unbusy before long. biggrin.gif Its not a large machine. If you have 220 service and 500 to 700 bills, you could solve your needs for a welder and a means to cut. You will need a compressor or compressed air for the plasma, but not having to worry about combustibles in your shop, running out of Ace or Oxy at an odd time or the extra expense of a torch rig seems worth it. As soon as my electrician friend gets back to me, Ill update this on how well its works. Hit me with any questions I may not have covered.

Oh and since I didn't get to play with the new welder, I cleaned and straightened the new shop. Its 24' x 24'. Hell its the reason I bought the house in the first place. The previous owner left a couple things that I started chopping for my benefit. A work table with a top shelf that was in the way becomes a welding table real fast with a grinder and a cutting wheel. Slowly Im getting there.

Work table before (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/hammerworx/Bike%20Stuff/Table.jpg) and after
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/hammerworx/Bike%20Stuff/Choppedtable.jpg) The Shop (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v691/hammerworx/Bike%20Stuff/Insideshop.jpg)


What filler rod have you found to work the best. I just got my CT520D yesterday and need to make a run to the supply house to pick up Argon bottle, tungsten, and filler rod.

I'll be hooking up the 220V this afternoon so I might be pushing later this week.

One warning or suggestion; I run two water seperators (one aat the compressor and one on the cutter) the dryer the air the better the cut.

THX, CW

[Hammer]

Just the standard er70 1/16". I should have bought the same size tungsten but I went with 3/32" for whatever reason. It seemed like a good idea at the time, thinking it being a smaller powered machine but it has no power issues so far. I burnt some 1/8" 7018s this weekend and it laid nice beads and of course the 6011s looked like 6011 had been welded with. Until I can get a compresses setup, Ill have to hope the Plasma works just as nice.

[Celtic Warrior]

THX for the info.

BTW I just noticed this thread is for the Everlast CT520D and mine is a LOTOS CT520D, those clever Chinese!!! It looks the same but with no readout.

THX, CW

[Hammer]

To be honest, I dont think there is much in the way of difference in the actual parts. Could be wrong. I think its more into the way and how careful said parts are assembled. Then again Mazda made many parts for Ford and people still swaer Fords are the better ride. :dizzy:

[EVERLAST_SUPPORT]

Warranty and support are nice features too.

Also, I have a Mazda MX6 and Ford Explorer. They both have their issues, but get me from point A to B all the time. :)

Only have Everlast far as welders, and they get the job done as well.

[Celtic Warrior]

I shouldn't go there but.............

If the unit is made well there is no requirement for warranties and support.

THX, CW

[EVERLAST_SUPPORT]

I shouldn't go there but.............

If the unit is made well there is no requirement for warranties and support.

THX, CW

Not everyone that buys a welder knows how to weld (yet) and sometimes they have questions on getting started. Also the unit ships with no power plug and there are sometimes wiring questions. The Super series (AC/DC/pulsed/MMA/plasma) units have a lot of knobs on them. That and shipping damage keeps you busy if you ship a lot of units each month.

[Hammer]

All and All Im happy with my purchase. I would have liked to had the funds at the time to pick up a Super series. Guess my CT has to get to work and make some money for a Super.

[EVERLAST_SUPPORT]

All and All Im happy with my purchase. I would have liked to had the funds at the time to pick up a Super series. Guess my CT has to get to work and make some money for a Super.

Sometime we get upgrades and sell the old units off. Also, major shipping damage and the units work. So you might not have to do too much to get one.

Just built a rack for my sons golf cart (for a seat or hauling bed) with a Super200Pi, used a Cut50D for cutting, to lazy two swap things back and forth on the Super as I was cutting as I went. I can see I will need to keep a second argon bottle though. I stopped at one point and used the stick to finish, save the argon for pretty projects.

The Super is nice, but I did not do any aluminum or cutting with it, so CT520D will probably do all you need for a long time. I like the pulsed DC on the Super though.

[Hammer]

In lieu of some of the negitive posts (Im not saying these customers didnt have real problems) Id like to add to my post. I bought the CT520d to work on a motorcycle Im chopping. Its been lowered and several pieces have been removed to aid in achieving the look Im going for. Ive cut the kickstand to better fit the height and rewelded the foot back on. The tig did a nice job. Ive been removing the triple tube backbone (main tube the runs under the gastank) to make it a more easily worked with single tube. The tig torch was small enough to get in those hard to reach angles yet had the amperage to get the penatration needed to weld that plus the tube telescoped into it the add the strength back to the joint. I know Everlast has had a few issues from what Iver read and maybe I got lucky with my purchase. I hope others have as easy a go at it as I did and I hope those having issue resolve them soon. I also hope the jumping on the bash wagon fad slows but ....

I know posts without pictures arent worth a damn. So this is what my CT530D is doing for me so far.
(its a crap camera so squint and cross your eyes :p)
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v691/hammerworx/Bike%20Stuff/?action=view&current=NewGSandTitle.jpg http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v691/hammerworx/Bike%20Stuff/?action=view&current=newmockup.jpg

The first is the day I sat in the shop. The second is after a few days chopping

[Celtic Warrior]

In lieu of some of the negitive posts (Im not saying these customers didnt have real problems) Id like to add to my post. I bought the CT520d to work on a motorcycle Im chopping. Its been lowered and several pieces have been removed to aid in achieving the look Im going for. Ive cut the kickstand to better fit the height and rewelded the foot back on. The tig did a nice job. Ive been removing the triple tube backbone (main tube the runs under the gastank) to make it a more easily worked with single tube. The tig torch was small enough to get in those hard to reach angles yet had the amperage to get the penatration needed to weld that plus the tube telescoped into it the add the strength back to the joint. I know Everlast has had a few issues from what Iver read and maybe I got lucky with my purchase. I hope others have as easy a go at it as I did and I hope those having issue resolve them soon. I also hope the jumping on the bash wagon fad slows but ....

I know posts without pictures arent worth a damn. So this is what my CT530D is doing for me so far.
(its a crap camera so squint and cross your eyes :p)
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v691/hammerworx/Bike%20Stuff/?action=view&current=NewGSandTitle.jpg http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v691/hammerworx/Bike%20Stuff/?action=view&current=newmockup.jpg

The first is the day I sat in the shop. The second is after a few days chopping

I'm with you. I have looked inside the American made welders and they look like the inside of my Chinese model, why design when you can just borrow ;-) technology.

On one of these forumns someone sent the INS looking for Alien parts in welders and found plenty chinese and other Rim country parts in the American machines. It's the parts that makes the machine not the lable, if it works, it works (now getting it fixed might be a different story).

I, as you, use my machine for custom bikes and cars not production so my welder suites my needs. If I were welding 12 hours a day 5 daya a week I too would chose a welder that I could easily have repaired.

Just my two cents, CW

[bargainfinder]

Just wont to tell you all, the red led is IMO not much use. Dont worry it it dont go to 190 amps on arc welding. I think it a look thing that may should have been left off the unit. I own two ct520d they both have the led and it does not read the way i think it should. Just read the numbers around your knob and everything will be ok. i have a friend that has a imported welder with the same led his reads weird also, so no worrys!!!

But i would like to say that both my 520 Rocks , IM in love with them:cool2:

Also IMO the everlast welder line with the 5 year warranty is by far the best deal, even if you were to find one a few dollars cheaper, warranty means alot now days.

Thank Everlast
keep up the good work
Thanks Robert

[hobbyplus]

Just joined this site, hope to get some simple questions answered. I just got a HD 520d unit. Biggest problem I found was a manual written by someone who doesn't speak English! This unit has a switch to select between machine and petal control. What I can't figure out is how to connect the foot petal. There is only one multi-pin connection on the front of the machine, next to the gas connection. The instructions provided seems to say instead of connecting the tig cable connection on the hose to this connector I should simply hook the foot petal up there. This is simple enough, and both connectors are the same, but if the only connections to the foot petal (electrical connections through the multipin connector) and the only connection to the tig gun/hose is the gas connection, how is that supposed to work?Something seems wrong in what info I can figure out from the manual.

[lugweld]

Did you check the website? It has the manual on it.

Is this a Everlast Canada Unit? We no longer market the 520 in the US. It has been a long time since we have.

You did read the instructions right.(correctly) There is no need for the torch switch when you are using the foot pedal. The torch switch controls the panel. So, when you use your foot pedal, you are not going to use both torch switch and foot pedal. Call Everlast Canada and they will help you if you need more information.

[EVERLAST_SUPPORT]

The model is an HD520D by Everlast?

[lugweld]

After checking on this, this is not an Everlast unit. It is actually another clone type unit from a small Canadian importer, importing cheap chinese mosfets expressly. Duncan of Everlast Canada has had experience with this company. I cannot figure out why it was posted here as they are completely different animals from the Canadian Everlast Mosfet 520 units...even though they use the same basic 520 designation, the boards, components, technology and factory are quite different. The 520 is a popular designation for the Chinese enthusiasts so we put the 520 on it. It basically means 200 amps with a 50 amp plasma built in. But as I said previously, call Everlast Canada, and I am sure they will be glad to help you if your company can't help you. Although, by now, I do hope you have it figured out.

Can your 520 do this? Because your company claim theirs won't.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Prbf-Zo17Ok

[titan winch]

Just joined this site, hope to get some simple questions answered. I just got a HD 520d unit. Biggest problem I found was a manual written by someone who doesn't speak English! This unit has a switch to select between machine and petal control. What I can't figure out is how to connect the foot petal. There is only one multi-pin connection on the front of the machine, next to the gas connection. The instructions provided seems to say instead of connecting the tig cable connection on the hose to this connector I should simply hook the foot petal up there. This is simple enough, and both connectors are the same, but if the only connections to the foot petal (electrical connections through the multipin connector) and the only connection to the tig gun/hose is the gas connection, how is that supposed to work?Something seems wrong in what info I can figure out from the manual.

Hello
You unit was purchased from Hamilton . The HD stands for Hamilton Drills . This young fellow 's father sells Drill Bits hence the name on the unit.
Mark ( seller ) can be a little hard to contact and i often end up helping his customers.
I think you will find the Foot control works opposite to the normal way it works . ( this is a common question i get from his customers all the time ) It is a simple fix and our service dept can sort this out.
If you are local to the Toronto Area your more than welcome to bring your Unit and we will give you a rundown and check the functions / explain your set -up.
Cheers

[hobbyplus]

titan winch,
Yep, I'm in Toronto and the unit did come from Hamilton/Stoney Creek.If you could post your company's contact info I would appreciate someone who knows what they are talking about to walk me through this thing.

[lugweld]

905-630-8246

633 ENFIELD ROAD,

BURLINGTON, ONTARIO

CANADA


Here's Everlast Canada's contact info.

[titan winch]

titan winch,
Yep, I'm in Toronto and the unit did come from Hamilton/Stoney Creek.If you could post your company's contact info I would appreciate someone who knows what they are talking about to walk me through this thing.

you can call the number LUGWELD listed and your welcome to make a time for popping around. This coming Saturday is going to be a bit hectic at the shop as we have a number of items on Auction to raise money for the Christmas Toy Drive . The shopping volunteers will be sorting out the toys by age group .Apparently my job is babysitting the younger children whose parents have volunteered to help.
Incidentally if you want a new plasma cutter / 12.000lb winch or even a 3500lb winch and a bunch of other items your more than welcome to join up and bid on it. Auction ends Monday midnight www.jeepkings.ca
so far we have just over $2600 and we would like to get $3k so we can also grocery shop for the Foodbank.
Cheers

[noobie]

Hi. I like what I hear about the ct502d. I was wondering if anyone can share more of their experience with 110v usage. My garage is a bit far to have 220v installed. Thanks.

[jlcooley70]

I am just wanting to be clear on the hook up for the air for plasma cutting.as well as a couple q's on tigging
I just got a lotos ct520d
for plasma cutting you do not use the argon gas you use the air compressor with the specified pressure..and run a y with valves to switch between the gas and air..correct?
as for arc welding i am clear on that.
tig welding question as that is the reason i wanted this machine...i can mig and arc weld and want to learn to tig .I understand there is a learning curve but will get it..my question(s) are 1. do you have to point the electrodes every time you tig or just the initial one time when you put a new electrode in/can you use a grinder for this or do i have to buy the specialized grinder? can i just have a grinding wheel for just that purpose grinding my electrodes as i read you can contaminate them.2.the ebay ad said you can weld aluminum..it's kinda tricky the way it's worded it says you can stick weld aluminum..arc or tig? tig is what i wanted to do..as i opted for the foot pedal for that reason.
thanks in advance
john cooley

[lugweld]

Perhaps this a question better posted on the "other manufacturers" forum. This is an old thread, and likely shouldn't be revived, but I will answer your questions since it is here.
A couple of comments though:
1) You should call Lotus and get this information or at least try to get it out of them, since you are one of their esteemed customers. :rolleyes: Part of buying an Everlast product is the fact you get this type support without reserve.:waving: Though we may not provide the volumes of material of other manufacturers, we do help all novice customers with basic issues like this on a more personal one on one basis.

2) Go get training from a local tech school or continuing learning class. At least spend the 100.00 dollars or so on a good textbook that is available on line to teach you some of the basics. But I suppose if you wanted to spend another 100.00 you'd bought an Everlast.:cry:

OK enough telling you something you already know, or are about to find out.
Here's the answers to your questions:

1) Compressed air is the best choice for your unit. Nitrogen can be used satisfactorily, but it gets expensive after a while. You'll need a 20-30 gallon compressor with around 4 cfm output at 90 psi to use it for extended lengths of time. You can run a Y valve, or you can change out the line when you need to change processes.

2) Yes you need to keep a point on your Electrode. The slightly radioactive thoriated 2% tungsten will be best for your needs. This is a DC only unit and it will work fine since these are relatively the cheapest, and most widely used... There is no way to tell when you will need to resharpen, except for if it gets dull or contaminated. Some people can weld a long, long time without resharpening if they are good. Its likely you will be resharpening every 5 minutes or so from "dipping" and "sticking" until you learn control and technique.

3) Again, buying from Lotus, you bought from a ignorant or deceptive seller. No, NO, NO. You can't weld aluminum with DC. Yes it CAN be done, but not by you. It can only be done with limited thicknesses and Helium and HUGE electrodes, because the reverse polarity it takes liquefies tungsten very quickly because all the heat is concentrated on it. One tank of Helium can make up the difference in buying an AC/DC machine. It take lots of practice, and even more patience. Stick welding Aluminum is in a similar boat. Yes you can, but it is not the ideal solution. Tig welding on AC current is the only way to properly weld aluminum these days. Stick electrodes are for those time when you absolutely can't. But again the cost of practice to get good on this type of electrode will cost you more than a AC/DC machine from Everlast. Your torch probably won't even accept the 1/4 inch tungsten required to even weld 1/8" aluminum.... A foot pedal has nothing to do directly with being able to weld aluminum or not.

A FINAL, big word of advice: Try to cancel or return your order and buy from someone else, if not us, someone that will at least properly represent the capabilities of their product.