Help with some test plates.

[Rusty Toyota]

I'm looking for some advice for passing a welding test. Its for school but not for any kind of certification. We're actually not expected to pass so long as we try. But I have high standards for myself.

The parameters are:

Two 6" long, 3/8" plates with about 22.5* bevel.

A gap about as big as a 7018 rod(flux side)+a little wiggle room

There's an 8" long, 1/4" backing strip.

6011 is the rod to be testing with.

Position is flat.

Bead and rod number is essentially unlimited.



Testing of the weld will include:

Backing strip is removed and cover pass ground flat.

2, 1.5" strips will be cut perpendicular to the weld

Both will be bent, one on face, the other on the back side.

If it cracks I fail.


The instructor said this test is really unforgiving and if it rips, it rips, there's nothing you can do about it. I have three shots and already used one. I've not yet bent the plate but when grinding I have already seen what could be cracks. So that just about leaves two more tries and I want to pass both.

Some of my ideas are to pre/post heat and peen but I'm not really sure exactly how to go about doing these techniques. Does anyone have any other suggestions? If your answer is do research on your own, then so shall be it.

BTW, I will doing the same test with 7018 for test rod in vertical and overhead positions. So if anyone has advise for that I'd appreciate it as well.

[Newfie_1986]

Myself id run my first passes as hot as I could. Hot for a 1/8 6011 is 125 amps (thats about the max it should be ran at). Once I got to my top passes and I was capping I would turn it down to prevent under cutting. Use stringers, no weave. Place your beads so you can get at the slag on the toes of the weld passes. Clean Clean Clean. 6011 leaves a slight slag coating that can be a pain to remove but be sure to get it all out. Are you allowed to grind each pass ?

I dont exactly know why they have you doing a plate test will 6011's. We did open root with 6011s but we just ran the root with them, hot and capped with 18's

[Rusty Toyota]

We are allowed to grind. I was hitting it with a twisted wire wheel after each pass. Are you saying to grind the bead down flat? Is that completely flat or just cut the ripples down?

[Newfie_1986]

Id just use the grinder to ensure you have all the slag removed is all. Thats what a lot of guys do in the field with 6011s or 10's

[quasi]

3/8 doesn't need to be substantially pre heated. just hot enough to get the moisture out ~100*. not sure how helpful peening will be either. whenever straps are bent it is important to keep an eye on your inter pass temp. let it cool a little bit before you go to cap it as well. make sure that all of the passes are tied in cleanly and you should be fine.