92 Ford Superduty

[flatbustedbroke]

92 Ford 460 5 speed with overdrive. 130.000 miles weighs 9600lbs. empty. Fuel mileage sucks about 8mpg. what can be done to improve it. I have a clean air filter change the oil every 3500 miles and yes President Obama the tires are all aired up would a towing cam help any ideas appreciated except for the one about buying newer or diesel that's not in the budget.

[DSW]

Hate to say it, but most I know with those engines get about that in MPG's. Diesel would probably help, but the "new" Clean diesels get that mpg's now too compared to almost double that prior to '07.:realmad:

One thing I'll bet, is that at 9600 empty, you probably have steep rears. 4.10's- 4.88's depending on the truck. In the later trucks the F350's often come with 4.10's in DRW Cab & chassis, the heavier trucks F450-550's 4.88 rears. If it's an F350 you can get 3.73 rears which will help a bit, say 20% at most. It's a stock size so you can probably find one at a yard in a SRW or some DRW trucks. You might be able to get 3.55's if you went new. The heavier trucks the 4.30's were usually custom ordered and tougher to find. In late 08 they changed the stock F450 rears from 4.88 to 4.30's in responce to the $hitty MPG's the new diesels were getting.

My 00 diesel usually runs at 9.5K-10K in the summer, closer to 12K+ in the winter with 3.73's I've never had any issues even when towing and close to 22K+ with the trailer. You're a bit slower off the line, but towing thats expected. One thing I have found with the 3.73's is that it's pretty easy to light the tires up if its damp or slick and the truck is empty (8.5-9K) if you jump on the throttle hard from a dead stop.

I don't know about chips for something that old, but on the 00 diesels you can squeeze a few more MPG's out with a good chip.

[Fat Bastard]

No such animal as a 1992 Superduty.

[farmersamm]

I don't know if there's anything you can do to increase the mileage.

Mostly just keep the engine controls working properly I guess. I don't know about aftermarket chips. I've heard good and bad. Every truck I've ever owned has original everything on it, I mean everything. I'm a nut about keeping them original. It makes for easier repairs down the line because the parts match:D

This recent buy was somewhat based on the fact that the truck didn't look as if anybody had messed with it.

Only thing I found just yesterday was some sort of idiotic never needs changing air filter element. K&M, or something like that. Supposedly it gives greater air flow, and better mileage. It's goin' in the garbage today.

When I bought the original style filter element yesterday, I asked about these fancy wash 'n dry things. I don't like the concept of "greater air flow". To me it represents LESS FILTRATION. I'd rather sacrifice a few mpg than risk damaging the engine. I figure the engineers knew what they were doing when they designed the truck, and I defer to their judgement.

From what I understand, the reason the engines last so much longer these days is because they're designed to run cleaner (less carbon buildup). I'd assume that needed airflow was planned for when the thing was designed. Have you noticed how big the intake hoses are on these things compared to the bores of the old style carbs. I believe there's minimal restriction as it came from the factory

I'm not gonna fool with any of ti:)

If it's not throwing a code, it's probably running as good as it ever will.

Only thing I've ever seen that affects my mileage on my other Ford is poor fuel (ethanol blend), or a plugged catalytic converter. You may be at the point of needing a new converter. Mine failed about a couple of years ago on my 94 F-150. The mileage dropped from around 20mpg to around 10mpg. And it couldn't get out of it's own way it ran so badly.:D

I guess we gotta live with the downsides of a big block. Thank God mine isn't a daily driver:dizzy:

[farmersamm]

Oh, and hey......

Parts guy thought that maybe they had to change the filter canister to accept the fancy schmancy type filter. It that's the case (find out when I go out and start workin' on the truck), then I'm lookin' at buying a new original style canister/box to put back on the truck:realmad::realmad:

[flatbustedbroke]

Thanks Samm will check the converter.
Fatty please tell me what this truck is that is setting out in front of my house then.

[lugweld]

Yeah,

Fatty,

lol.

The super duty series started around 1989, before they created the '97 version body and chassis and had the light 3/4 split line for a year or two. This was the designation instead of having a 450 or 550, they used this for anything over 350 designation. A lot of the Super Duties then were equipped with fifth wheels and turned into hot shots. That started the turbocharging craze. Many truckers would fit the old 7.3's with wild turbos to give them extra power to put in front of the ZF manual transmissions. A few then were spinning 300 -400 hp with the better breathing ability. Ford saw this and a few other things led them to produce their "new" line of Super Duties.

[Tractapac]

I don't know if there's anything you can do to increase the mileage.

Only thing I found just yesterday was some sort of idiotic never needs changing air filter element. K&M, or something like that. Supposedly it gives greater air flow, and better mileage. It's goin' in the garbage today.

When I bought the original style filter element yesterday, I asked about these fancy wash 'n dry things. I don't like the concept of "greater air flow". To me it represents LESS FILTRATION. I'd rather sacrifice a few mpg than risk damaging the engine. I figure the engineers knew what they were doing when they designed the truck, and I defer to their judgement.





I've run a K&N filter for quite a lot of miles and I like it. It's basically a one off cost for the filter and then you wash it with their cleaner and re-oil it. They run them in the Baja and lots of other branches of motorsport and even when caked with 1/4" of dirt, they still flow more than a standard filter.

Just my .02 worth!:laugh::laugh:

[farmersamm]

I've run a K&N filter for quite a lot of miles and I like it. It's basically a one off cost for the filter and then you wash it with their cleaner and re-oil it. They run them in the Baja and lots of other branches of motorsport and even when caked with 1/4" of dirt, they still flow more than a standard filter.

Just my .02 worth!:laugh::laugh:

So now I would need SPECIAL CLEANER, SPECIAL OIL(saw that one on the little sticker on the cannister), AND I CAN ONLY DRIVE THE TRUCK IN THE BAJA!!!!!!!!!:realmad::realmad:

WHAT AM I GONNA DO IN THE BAJA. I DON'T WANNA GO TO THE BAJA:realmad::realmad: I don't even like LOOKING AT THE BAJA on tv:nono:

:jester::jester::jester:

[farmersamm]

Baja my butt!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[farmersamm]

My thoughts on travel outside county lines.............

"Never been to Spain(they say the ladies are insane), never been to England, never been to Heaven, but I've been to Olkahoma (not Arizona)"

:jester::jester::jester::jester:

[MarkBall2]

Lots of tests have been performed on standard equipment & the aftermarket equipment.

Airflow in, airflow out. Proper amount of fuel mixed in will make it a reliable truck. You said something about a "towing cam", if that's an aftermarket bumpstick, you will have to make sure everything before and after the valves flows enough air to make it work.

High flow air filters do help to increase mileage. Doesn't need to be a K&N, or other conical type filter in front of the throttle plate. We used to use taller stock type paper filters to get the engine to flow more air than what came stock on the truck. Opening up the exhaust helps a bunch too. Especially if the possibility of a plugged converter is thrown in the mix.

Check for a plugged converter, make sure you have enough airflow into the engine with either a taller stock type filter or an aftermarket cold air intake system. Make sure the engine management (computer) knows about your 'towing cam' profile. Might need a towing chip in the computer. Make sure the exhaust is free flowing with little restrictions. Make sure the timing is set correctly and you have good plugs n wires in it. Make sure there aren't excessively large fuel injectors in there too. It all has to work together to get the best fuel efficiency.

When it's all said & done, that 460 should be running about 10mpg loaded or empty. You're never going to see 20 mpg even if you run downhill with a tailwind in neutral. If you have the option (money) and do a lot of towing, get yourself a diesel with a turbo. Not the non-turbo'd diesels. Up to about 2006 diesel will get close to 20, some get close to 25 mpg depending on towing loads.

Good luck.

[David R]

Mostly you are screwed on the mileage. Its a big gas hog.

For the K&N air filter. My 93 F250 7.3 turbo HAD a stock air filter and one of those vacuum indicators that tell when the filter is plugged and time to change. With a NEW filter in and I beat on the truck it would say the filter was partially plugged. Reset the indicator and drive normal it was fine. I put in a K & N filter. 10,000 miles later no matter how hard I run it the indicator still says its not even a little plugged. I clean it every 2 oil changes (10,000 miles).

I have an 88 F Super duty in my shop right now. Its a pain in the *** to order parts. Ford lists it as an F450 Other suppliers call it a F Super Duty. Its getting new springs. The spring shop calls it an F Super Duty. The springs fit..... Its a small dump truck.

[flatbustedbroke]

Gonna remove the converter see if that helps. Had a mid 70's 460 that pulled harder and got 10-12 this one won't pull and gets 8 if you keep your foot out of it. Will also try the air filter. Thanks everyone

[Fat Bastard]

A few years after the revamping of the light-duty trucks, the heavies got their turn for 1999. Unlike the rounded styling of their F-150 and F-250 siblings, the F-250 and F-350 Super Duty versions had prominent grilles, angular body lines and "stepped-down" front side windows, all of which reinforced their big truck status. Regular Cab, Super Cab and Crew Cab body styles were offered, as was a variety of power plants that included the Power Stroke turbodiesel V8. (http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/Features/articleId=46026)

The Ford Super Duty is a line of commercial trucks (over 8,500 lb (3,900 kg) GVWR) introduced in 1998 for the 1999 model year. The F-250 to F-550 Super Duties are assembled at the Kentucky Truck Assembly in Louisville, Kentucky. The F-650 and F-750 Super Duties are assembled at the Blue Diamond Truck plant in Mexico. For Mercosur (Brazil (F-250, F-350 and F-4000) and Argentina (F-100)) are assembled at the Brazil, Engine 3.9 TurboDiesel, alvailable 4x2, 4x4, single cab w/short bed, crew cab w/short bed, single cab/ crew cab chasis.

The Super Duty trucks are larger, heavier built commercial/industrial series pickup trucks with heavier-duty body-on-frame steel ladder frames, axles, springs, brakes, transmissions, more powerful engines, and all other heavier/bigger components (with much higher payload and towing capacities) than the older traditional equivalent F-250, F-250HD (Heavy Duty), and F-350 Ford truck lines. In appearance, the Super Duty line might look a little similar to but does not share any of the design or build characteristics of the F-150. A F-250 Super Duty would surpass the older traditional F-350 in most categories. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Super_Duty)



You got a pig of a motor and it will never be easy on the fuel bill, no mater the type or style of air filter you use. You don't have a Superduty.
The Fat Bastard of Alaska.

[denrep]

8-10 mpg is about it for Flatbustedbroke's Super Duty.

A cog change is tough on a SD because of the limited ratios offered; not sure that it would help much anyway. I heard that there was a faster cog from a GM RV which could be put in the SD housing, but I don't know for sure.

I haven't seen FBB's truck, but if it has 10 stud 16" wheels, and a beam front axle, it's a Super-Duty; (re)introduced in 1988, marketed as, and carried fender emblems of : "Super Duty."

By the way the original "Super-Duty" engine, great grandaddy and king of the fuel suckers, came out in '58.
It was an all-new heavy duty engine which replaced the previous Lincoln engine based "Big Job."
100 gallons, twice a day, was typical fuel consumption. :laugh:
The Super Duty was easy to spot by the factory installed hood scoop on F models.
The Super Duty name was revived for the heavy/light truck line in ‘88.

I can't help but chuckle about Pontiac buying Super-Duty hood scoops from Ford, -as commonly seen on dump trucks :laugh:- and then factory installing them on new high-performance Pontiacs.

Good Luck

[JC'sWelding]

Geez, I had a 460 dually. Good thing it had dual tanks. To start it and get to the end of the driveway took 1 tank. :)

[denrep]

Geez, I had a 460 dually. Good thing it had dual tanks. To start it and get to the end of the driveway took 1 tank. :)

When you were livin' on the big ranch, huh?

[MarkBall2]

Prolly a 30 foot driveway................

[JC'sWelding]

Prolly a 30 foot driveway................


Yep! 460ci engine gets NO mileage. 8 MPG, hardly, more like 8GPM.:laugh:

[Coyote]

I dont think the diesel engine would help out much. I had a 1992 F-Super Duty with the naturally aspirated 7.3 IH diesel. It was a good reliable engine, but the truck never broke 10 MPG ever. The company I worked for at the time had 15-20 of these trucks and 7-9MPG was the average we got out of them.

[farmersamm]

When you gotta pull, you gotta pay

Good rule of thumb. Sad but true.

Newer trucks do better I guess

[MarkBall2]

A buddy of mine had a 94 Super Duty with the Turbo'd 7.3. He pulled a gooseneck with steel on it and got about 12 mpg fully loaded (a bit over 10K GVW). Unloaded with no trailer just a fuel tank & tools it got about 21 mpg..........if he kept his foot out of it. Most times it averaged about 19, but then again, he had a size 32 left foot that weighed about 500 lbs.

My 6.2 diesel in a 82 GMC 4x4 averaged about 20 with no turbo. If I would have put a turbo on it, most of the guys I knew with them were getting close to 30 mpg. A diesel needs air, the more the better it runs. With better mileage too.

Gears may be the cause of the poor mileage on a diesel.. Either not enough or more likely too much gear ratio. With the turbo, you don't need as steep a gear as a non turbo'd one does.

[MarkBall2]

When you gotta pull, you gotta pay

Good rule of thumb. Sad but true.

Newer trucks do better I guess


Actually the new turbo diesels suck at miles per gallon. All because of the diesel regeneration to clean the converter. The computer adjusts the fuel input to dump fuel in the exhaust to burn off the soot. Most of them get pretty poor mileage.10-12 on average. There is lots of info on the regen problems with new diesels.

Best ones to get are mid 2000's, up to about 2006 turbo diesels. Cummins, Powerstrokes, Duramax's are all good performers & potentially have a lot of torque & horses to get a load moving. Chip it, upgrade the turbo, open the exhaust, potentially unleasing 500 hp & 750 ft lbs torque. Easy mods.

[farmersamm]

Mark, I guess it goes back to the "pay to play" thing.

I just thank my lucky stars that the truck isn't a daily driver. Maybe a few thou a year.

[MarkBall2]

I agree Sam. Most of the used diesels are going for close to 75% of original new price. Most I've seen here in Yuma (2001-2002 Dodge Cummins 4x4's) are going close to $18K. Many are nice, some are beat to death.

But if ya wanna run with the big boys, ya gotta pay the price. Many here are used as daily drivers only because we are in the middle of nowhere.

[farmersamm]

Somebody brought this up on this thread, or maybe another.

For you guys that own the 90's Fords, there is a way to read the engine codes without having to spend big bucks on a dedicated code reader.

A simple jumper wire on the self diagnostic interface(;)) harness lets you access the wonderful world of computer geeks:laugh:

You'll need a manual to get the sequence of identification codes, and dynamic prompts seperated from the actual trouble codes. It's all spelled out in good aftermarket manuals from Haynes and Chilton. Buy the Helms manuals from Ford if you intend on doing serious work for the lifetime of the truck, or your lifetime, whichever comes first:laugh::laugh:

All of the codes can be read on the "check engine" light. At least with the OBD I system. I don't have the second generation system on any truck I own. So I don't know about the second generation system.

Wasn't it nice when all you had was carbs and distributors:D:mad::laugh:?

The connectors are on the left/drivers side of the truck just under the hood hinge. A big one, and a little one just behind it. I can put up actual pics of the connections if the diagram isn't doin' it for ya:waving:

got no welding goin' on now, so it's all about wrenchin':D

[farmersamm]

And that is the full, final, and glorious, extent of the wisdom I have to offer tonight:D:rolleyes::):eek::laugh::laugh::laugh: