View Full Version : Welding table
Scott S
01-10-2004, 06:49 PM
Here is a table
BillC
01-10-2004, 08:24 PM
Nice looking table, Scott. Is that a receiver tube there on the front left? I just bought the casters and hardware to finish my table. I welded the frame a few months ago but have been putting off mounting the aluminum top and putting it on casters.
Scott S
01-10-2004, 08:33 PM
Thanks Bill, That is a piece of 3/8" on the left. I put it there to hook my ground clamps to. I can keep both machines hooked up and the clamps are out of the way. And being vericle, there is no horizontal pressure on the wire connection. I bought casters for it, but I decided not to install them. Here is a side view
big rig guy
01-10-2004, 09:15 PM
Bill C just curious as why you would use a aluminum top on your welding table?
big rig guy
01-10-2004, 09:26 PM
nice table Scott, I need to build another table but without a vise mounted, and prefer mounted with wheels to move around the shop.
I like how you have the lower shelf area there, you can slide a piece of plywood in there, I need something like that to get my axle and frame jacks out of the way.
Scott S
01-10-2004, 10:11 PM
Big Rig guy, I have my vice mounted on the other side of the shop. Since that picture was taken, I picked up a round piece of 1/4" steel from the steel supplier in the cut off room for only $.25/ lb. to use as the shelf. But I did not tack it, so that I can remove it if needed. I still have the wheels but i am going to use them on some other project.
Jim314
01-10-2004, 11:27 PM
Very nice looking table Scott.
BillC
01-10-2004, 11:41 PM
I bought the aluminum because it is lighter than steel and should be easier to clean up since the splatter can't stick to it. I also got a really good price on the aluminum plate. I'm going to drill and tap some holes in it for clamping and stops, and see how it works!
Scott S
01-10-2004, 11:48 PM
Thanks Jim
rusted
04-10-2004, 05:47 PM
Scott I'm interested in how you setup your holes for clamping and stops. I don't know where to begin in that direction.
I'm definitely going 1/2" steel, as I will have my vice on there, and I'll have casters but with leveling feet as well so it can be totally raised off the casters.
Anyway, please definitely update us about what you do with your work surface.
Crithpy_Critter
04-11-2004, 01:06 AM
If my shop was that clean I'd live in it.
Crithpy_Critter
04-11-2004, 01:26 AM
btw,
ain't the hot slag gonna really screw up an aluminum table top?
Aluminum melts at 1220 degrees F
Scott S
04-11-2004, 05:02 PM
Rusted,
I have the top overlap the frame by 4" all around for clamping. The top is square so you can clap the frames flush with the top to for squaring. I don't have any buit in stops. If you need something special, just tack on some stops for the job that you are doing and then grind them off after. I hope that answers your question.
leaddog
04-13-2004, 08:33 PM
I saw a table where he had mounted a reciever tube and he had mounted a vise on 2in sq tubing. he could take his vise on and off when he needed it. He had recievers mounted all over the shop and on his truck tailgate also. Made it handy when he needed a vise
leaddog
BillC
04-14-2004, 10:54 PM
Originally posted by Crithpy_Critter
btw,
ain't the hot slag gonna really screw up an aluminum table top?
Aluminum melts at 1220 degrees F No problems with melting anything so far. It may make a micro pit, but nothing I can detect. A big plate of 1/2 inch aluminum can absorb a lot of heat.
Nice table scott! shoot i wish i could see the top of mine!
Scott S
04-15-2004, 07:54 AM
7018,
So do I. If you saw it now, you wouldn't...:D
ALL I have is a sheet of 1/8th about 12"X24" that I lay across the top of my weld cart. Anything bigger has to go on the floor or a quick plywood horse. Maybe some day a bench will be in my future but until then I'll be envious.
Well im going to clean mine off this weekend.Been trying to get the shop in some kind of order, but not having alot of luck,was just throwing things in there for about 3 or 4 years now, but i'll get it done!!!
Planet X
04-16-2004, 12:47 AM
Here is one made by shadetreewelding;
Nice table but it looks like it mite be hard to clamp things down om it.
Planet X
04-16-2004, 10:26 AM
Originally posted by 7018
Nice table but it looks like it mite be hard to clamp things down om it.
Clamping is what these types of tables do best:confused: Shadetrees uses angle iron for the 'top' I chose flat bar- both ideas were generated independently but use the same 'clamping' concept. Focused around vice grip type clamps.
one_rod
04-18-2004, 05:45 PM
Wish I had seen that idea before I built my table with a solid top!
For some jobs I end up tack welding parts to the bench top when the clamps won't reach.
I guess i didnt look close enough looked like rec tubing the frist time i looked at it< soooooooooooooo sorry for the mistake :)
OPPS wasnt even your's i was looking at!! Gee i missed again!!!!
Jim314
04-18-2004, 07:35 PM
I thought the same thing when I saw it. I didn't realize it was angle, thought is was rectangular tube also. I like the idea of using angle.
cutter
04-18-2004, 07:46 PM
I think P X showed us 2 different tables?
Oh well i guess i can blame it on being old with poor eye site, anyhoo that works for me!!! :)
Planet X
04-18-2004, 09:42 PM
Originally posted by 7018
I guess i didnt look close enough looked like rec tubing the frist time i looked at it< soooooooooooooo sorry for the mistake :)
No, my bad I need to reread my threads before I post them, no 'smarts' intended:cool: The pics are the best I had, details are lacking so really hard to see the 'angle' iron pieces. Shadetree's table would be much cheaper to build than one focused around a solid slab of plate, and more useful for mig welding. There is a place for different types of worksurfaces in my mind-just depends what will be done on them.
Building a purpose built 'mig' table was on my mind when I built mine.. just wish I had met Ron earlier as I like his setup better.
Np XP i should have looked a little closer, guess i was in a hurry!! they are both nice tablesa1 i just prefer a plate top. how ever if i do build another one ill try ur idea.
harry wilson
04-24-2004, 09:37 AM
good idea with the weels and the bolts
MAC702
04-26-2004, 05:42 PM
I'm slowly getting some of my pictures from my laptop to my work computer where I can post them here after using the program Cutter steered me to to downsize them.
Anyway, here is a shot from a week ago when I had three projects going and the shop was a mess, but I happened to also have the camera in my hand and took some shots of MY magic garage, with apologies to Jim.
In this shot, my skeleton welding table can be almost seen. I find it the best table for clamping, which is what I need most of the time. Next one I build will be bigger though. This one is 3' x 7'. I want at least a 4' x 10'. I'll probably build it 5' x 10' so I can fully use three 10' sticks of steel in the top frame.
Like Scott, I decided not to put the casters on it. I don't want it moving unless I want it moving. And my wife and I can slide it over with little trouble.
fla jim
04-26-2004, 06:24 PM
Mac:
Not quite a "Magic Garage", but your getting there:drinkup:
cutter
04-26-2004, 07:21 PM
Another 30 years, Jim & he may pass you. But I don't suppose we need to worry about it. :D
Glad to hear you got the pictures working for you, Mac. I just installed the latest version of Iview yesterday.
Scott S
04-26-2004, 10:58 PM
Hi Mac,
Nice garage! Is that yellow frame with the plywood box a trailer? If so, what do you use it for?......Scott :)
aluminum may melt at 1200 but it will distort at a much lower temp.
MAC702
04-30-2004, 01:59 PM
Scott, yes, here's a better view while building another Kingdom Hall of Jehovah's Witnesses here in Las Vegas. I was busy doing electrical work, but had some welding to do too. The trailer holds most of my tools, and is only a few months old, so it is a constant work in progress as I find more ways to put more stuff on it. I built it myself.
The wooden box is full of toolboxes, tool cases, and milk crates of related tools. It has three large sliding trays in the top 8", and the bottom is mostly DeWalt cases.
If you can see them, there are "tracks" between the chop saw and the Trailblazer. These are for the HF wagon that holds the wirefeeder and plasma torch, plus another toolbox.
Still in the works is a compartmentalized something for hardware storage and a narrow rack over the top for steel. I am also currently building a double-hinged top for the box.
I wound up putting more weight forward of the axle than I thought I initially would because this has been a design-as-you-go project, but the trailer and truck can certainly handle it; I want to try to put some storage in front of the Trailblazer, but it has to stay low (or high) enough to clear work for the chop saw.
Nice trailer,like the color also,looks like it do u a fine job!!!
john pen
05-03-2004, 09:17 AM
Mac, is your table built with an incline on it or is that an optical illusion. If it is at an angle, what was the purpose/advantage ?
MAC702
05-03-2004, 11:48 AM
John, GOOD EYE!!
Yes, the table is at an incline of 0.001 degrees off of horizontal.
The reason is because I'm a lousy fabricator. But your the first person who had the guts to call me on it.:p
Scott S
05-03-2004, 07:10 PM
Mac,
Thats a nice set up. Sometimes the work that is done as you go works out better than if you plan it out first...:)
TheFrenchCanadian
05-04-2004, 12:47 AM
Hi all,
I'm planning to build myself a welding table fairly soon, and so I've been watching this thread quite closely. I've decided to make the frame like Scott S'. table, I like the simplicity of it. I need to have it mobile, since I have a fairly small workspace, so I want to mount it on wheels. The best example of that, I think, is the photo Planet X posted ot the shadetree built table, so I think that's how I'll make the base.
I'm not sure what to do about the top however. I like the idea behind the table with the angle iron top. Is it as strong as a solid 1/2" top? I would have trouble cluttering it up as I do with most flat surfaces in my shop, that's a bonus...! On the other hand, a good sturdy worktable with a solid top would be nice for dissasembling motorcycle engines etc...
I have a few questions, though, and a bit of info would be appreciated:
1. What size/thickness sqare tubing should I use for my frame?
2. What size are your tables? I have limited space so am leaning toward something like 24" x 36". Is this too small to be practical, or would it be workable?
3. How high did you make your tables? I'm 5'10" tall...
4. As far as angle iron for a top, what size/thickness was used on the tables pictured?
I want to do a good job the first time, so any comments or advice would be appreciated, as I'm a total newbie. I'm including a rough diagram of what I have in mind...
Thanks in advance for the input,
Luc
Scott S
05-04-2004, 07:25 AM
The support tubes are 2"x3/16". The cross bracing tubes are 14 gauge. The top is 1/4". The size is 3'x4' I did not use angle for the top. The legs are welded directly to the top. I added 14 gauge square tubing between them and also welded them to the top. Mine is about 35" high. I have also added a 1/4" round plate on the bottom supports for a shelf. I picked it up in the cut-off section of our supplier for $.15/lb. It fits nicely. Couldn't beat the price....Good luck. Let me know if you have any other questions...
TheFrenchCanadian
05-05-2004, 08:43 AM
Thanks Scott, that helps a lot! I'm going to see what's available at my supplier's this week, and that may help me make my decision on what to use for a top. I'll be sure to post any other goofy questions I can think up!! (as well as a few photos when I get around to building...) :-)
Hey Planet X, what about a little info regarding the angle iron top of the shadetree table photos you posted? How wide/thick is it? How far apart are they?
Luc
Planet X
05-05-2004, 12:23 PM
Originally posted by TheFrenchCanadian
Thanks Scott, that helps a lot! I'm going to see what's available at my supplier's this week, and that may help me make my decision on what to use for a top. I'll be sure to post any other goofy questions I can think up!! (as well as a few photos when I get around to building...) :-)
Hey Planet X, what about a little info regarding the angle iron top of the shadetree table photos you posted? How wide/thick is it? How far apart are they?
Luc
I have lost build details of his table- due to some major house cleaning I had to do on my e-mail account- worm/virus...something thing.
But looking at the pics, I would say 3x3 angle iron at least .120 wall likely thicker .
Spaced 5-6" apart.
I have invited Shadetree to this sight-we will see if he has the spare time to participate here.:cool:
Shade Tree Welder
05-05-2004, 10:26 PM
Howdy all. Both solid tops and "frames" have their place in the shop. The Frames style is a little harder to build in that you have to be careful when welding the angle to the tubing to maintain overall flatness of the table. I used 2x4x 7 ga. tubing for the long side this affords a stiffer table and I used 3x3x 1/4" angle for the cross members. 2x2 1/4" would have been preferred but it was a low budget affair and I have extra 3" laying around the shop. The casters I used give the table a capacity of over 2000 pounds and if you look closely at the picture I made leveling screws to lift the table off the casters and be able to level the table. The floor of my shop is anything but level. My table is 72" by 40" and 37" off the floor. The dimensions work well in my undersized shop. Bigger would be better but my building is just 24 feet square and fully loaded with other equipment. the 37" is a good height for me as I am 6'2". Now when I need a solid plate for a table top I have a 1" and 1/2" plate I place on the table and now have a solid work surface.
Any questions my email is shadetreewelding@aol.com
TheFrenchCanadian
05-07-2004, 04:43 PM
Thanks again guys! (Esp. Scott S., Planet X and Shadetree!!...) I'll keep all that info in mind when I get a little closer to building time. I've already decided I will use the leveling screw idea, since my floor is far from level as well. I like the strength built into that system. As for the top, I kinda thought that the "frame" style would be harder to assemble well. I think it might be wise to go with the easier solid top as a first project, but I'll have to look into costs...
I'll be sure to keep you posted with some photos when I finally get my *ss in gear :-)
Luc
Scott S
05-07-2004, 06:12 PM
Luc,
You are very welcome. I'll be waiting to see those finished photos :D
Shade Tree Welder
05-10-2004, 12:24 AM
Hey Let me know how your table works out.
1. Most of my table was make of left overs from other jobs. The tubing was 2" square by 11 gauge (0.120") wall the channel on the bottom 5" and the stretchers for the casters was 3" x 1/4" angle.
2. My shop is 24' square my table is 40" by 72" I would like it bigger but that size works well in my shop
3. I am 6'2" and my table height is 37". I would suggest ~35" for your height. What I did was look around my house and shop and saw what hieght seemed comfortable and 37" seem to be the best. I have a buddy who comes over from time to time to work and bitches all my stuff is too high, lol he is only 5'8".
4. My advise on the top is to build it with angle. I would look at 2" angle 3/16" thick and if you need a solid plate for a job. Keep one handy and clamp it or tack it to the angle.
Shade Tree Welder
05-10-2004, 12:28 AM
Originally posted by TheFrenchCanadian
Thanks again guys! (Esp. Scott S., Planet X and Shadetree!!...) I'll keep all that info in mind when I get a little closer to building time. I've already decided I will use the leveling screw idea, since my floor is far from level as well. I like the strength built into that system. As for the top, I kinda thought that the "frame" style would be harder to assemble well. I think it might be wise to go with the easier solid top as a first project, but I'll have to look into costs...
I'll be sure to keep you posted with some photos when I finally get my *ss in gear :-)
Luc
One of my local steel suppliers also deals in "used" steel. Other than rust steel is steel and some good deals can be had if you don't mind rootin' around some. They sell at around 22.5 cents a pound they cut you a deal is the weight is there.
Let me know how it turn out.
WillyWeld
05-10-2004, 08:38 PM
Here is my welding table. Thanks to all here who gave me lots of great advice.
Its 8' x 3.5'. Its 36" high. The top frame and legs are made of 2" sq tube. The top sheet is 3/8" thick. There are tabs (not shown) hanging off the frame where I can connect a ground clamp.
Dman033189
05-10-2004, 08:49 PM
Nice table:cool2:
Shade Tree Welder
05-10-2004, 09:14 PM
I am startin' to feel like a slacker. My shop ain't clean like y'alls is. I usually have to blow off a 1/4" of road/grinding/slag dust from anything that has been settin' longer than a week.
Scott S
05-10-2004, 09:45 PM
Table came out great!! You won't know how you did without it..:D
fanton
05-24-2004, 10:50 AM
Scott: That is a mighty fine looking table. I'm new to welding so please don't be offended if I say or ask something dumb. I have a HF welding setup and want to build a table but don't know where to start. Where did you find the angle iron and what size did you use? The same with the top. And most important- how much did all of it cost? If this is to personal, I apologize for asking. Did you have to use a jig or how did you hold it all together while you welded? I have a gas outfit-will it work? Thank you in advance for your reply. Kindest regards, Jim
Lanmanb4
08-24-2006, 05:46 PM
btw,
ain't the hot slag gonna really screw up an aluminum table top?
Aluminum melts at 1220 degrees F
I think this wouild be one fo those times when you DONT want to clean the oxide off :blob1:
Joe H
08-24-2006, 06:32 PM
I think this wouild be one fo those times when you DONT want to clean the oxide off :blob1:
Why in the world would "hot slag" be getting on your table?
And no, it won't mess it up. Aluminum may have alow melt temp, but it is also very good at dissipating heat, hence the need for alot more amperage to weld aluminum. Also, spatter from steel won't stick to aluminum, and you won't be accidentally welding steel to your your tabletop.
All of the welding tables and benches and jigs where I work are made from aluminum. Alot of the jig holding blocks are even made from urethane, to keep from scratching up parts.
Weldtek
08-24-2006, 06:41 PM
Free advice.... If you want your table to stay flat, never tack to it. If weld metal sticks to it; take the guard off your grinder and set it flat on the table to remove the weld, spatter etc.
scott brunsdon
08-24-2006, 09:37 PM
I've got a compromise between the flat top and the cross bars.
My top is 2 pieces of steel about 800mm square each mounted with a gap of about 6 inches between them.
I did it partly because the table was made from scraps lying around.
The gap makes clamping etc really easy.
As for getting the height right, stand in your boots with your forearm held out i.e. elbow bent.
Then put your fist under your elbow.
The height to the bootom of your fist is the ideal bench height.
That's what I was told, at least, and it works for me.
Scott
zapster
08-24-2006, 10:26 PM
Free advice.... If you want your table to stay flat, never tack to it. If weld metal sticks to it; take the guard off your grinder and set it flat on the table to remove the weld, spatter etc.
Great tip!
i need not worry..mine's 1" thick steel :eek:
thats all i could find big enough in the shop..
but i'm gonna have 'em order me a 1/2" thick 30X30" aluminum jig plate for the real top..
...zap!
rmm200
12-06-2006, 03:02 PM
I am looking at doing my own welding table and I have a basic question:
If a 4'x6' sheet of 3/8 inch plate weighs in at 366 pounds, ho do you handle
the sucker?
I am not even sure how I would get a 4' x 8' sheet out of the back of my
truck, much less how I would mount it for cutting to size. Saw horses?
Shop crane and a sling? And never lay it flat on a concrete floor?
Any advice on handling big heavy pieces of flat stock appreciated...
Robert Mitchell
Jim Stabe
12-06-2006, 03:26 PM
I am looking at doing my own welding table and I have a basic question:
If a 4'x6' sheet of 3/8 inch plate weighs in at 366 pounds, ho do you handle
the sucker?
I am not even sure how I would get a 4' x 8' sheet out of the back of my
truck, much less how I would mount it for cutting to size. Saw horses?
Shop crane and a sling? And never lay it flat on a concrete floor?
Any advice on handling big heavy pieces of flat stock appreciated...
Robert Mitchell
I faced the same issue when I built my table. My top is 3/4" 4'x4' (almost 500 lbs) and I bought it from a scrap dealer. When I picked it up I had them fork lift it onto 4x4's in the bed of my truck. When I got home I located the exact center of the plate and drilled a tap hole for a 1/2-13 thread and then tapped it. I screwed in a home made eyebolt with a lock nut and picked it up with my engine hoist (same way I put it on top of the leg structure). I bolted mine in place from the bottom to prevent having to weld the legs on and possibly distorting the plate. I put rubber pads under the top and it really helps take the ringing out of it when you beat on it with a hammer. I also used a wood working vise I had laying around so that nothing stuck above the level of the top, it also opens quite wide.
Hope this helps.
Jim
MicroZone
12-06-2006, 03:30 PM
Wow - this welding table post has over 10,000 views. Cool !
On another note - Jim Stabe, do you have any pics of your car project?
rmm200
12-06-2006, 04:09 PM
Jim Thanks!
I would not have thought of an eye bolt - seems a lot safer to me
than having the sheet slide out of a sling. 3/4" steel is - substantial.
4x4's is a good suggestion to ride on too, to allow for a forklift.
Robert
Jim Stabe
12-06-2006, 05:27 PM
On another note - Jim Stabe, do you have any pics of your car project?
Here are a few but they are at least 6 months old. Need to get the camera out.
Jim
jworman
12-07-2006, 09:09 PM
Scott I'm interested in how you setup your holes for clamping and stops. I don't know where to begin in that direction.
I'm definitely going 1/2" steel, as I will have my vice on there, and I'll have casters but with leveling feet as well so it can be totally raised off the casters.
Anyway, please definitely update us about what you do with your work surface.
Wow! What a great bunch of good looking tables. I hate to show mine. They are old microfiche carts with a 1/4" plate attached to the top. They have wheels so I can move them around. I have two that are alike. If I'm working on something big like a gate I move them apart for a large working area. I'm just a backyard welder, with no big heavy projects, so the 1/4 plate has been enough for me.
For hold downs, I drilled some holes in the plate and used a couple of drill press clamps. They worked OK, but one day I looked at a woodworking clamp I had and decided they may do very well on my welding table. I made one and liked it so well I made two more. One hit on the top with a brass hammer and the work is pretty solid. One hit on the side and it's released. I think I could have done without the little extension on the end, but if you are holding tube or pipe it's pretty handy.
Pictures enclosed (I hope).
John
MicroZone
12-08-2006, 10:00 AM
Here are a few but they are at least 6 months old. Need to get the camera out.
Jim
Wow - some amazing chopping, cutting and re-sizing being done there! Great work!
Jim Stabe
12-08-2006, 05:01 PM
Wow - some amazing chopping, cutting and re-sizing being done there! Great work!
Thanks. The bumpers were a chore getting the curve uniform so you can't see any wiggles in the chrome. The windshield will fun also.
Jim
DirtyLittleSecret
01-22-2007, 12:18 AM
I really like this design that you posted P-X. Thinking that placing a 3/8 sheet under the spreaders would allow some under table storage and adaptability. Im looking to shelve my welder under the table proper along with my other equipment.
Even mounting a 2" receiver mounted vise on the side of the table to make it even more functional would be a nice touch.
Any other ideas?
Stampeder
03-31-2008, 12:18 PM
ScottS:
If you top is aluminum, how did you affix it to the steel frame?
Thanks.
sunline
03-31-2008, 03:11 PM
Jim S; that is a totally sick idea. I love it! My first car was a 63 B. Near to killed me but yours should do the job quicker...
Mandau
05-07-2008, 11:09 AM
This is my current welding table... Shame...
That's why I am envy of the numerous project people all over have done... and posted...
I need time and lotta scape metal to upgrade the current stuff for better cosmetic:waving:
spiral-cut-bevel
05-07-2008, 12:13 PM
ScottS:
If you top is aluminum, how did you affix it to the steel frame?
Thanks.
Hate to burst your bubble....but, do you realize that you
are responding to a thread that was started 4 years ago......Scott S
is no longer registered on this forum.
sorry man-
step7720
05-26-2008, 11:08 PM
I made mine from the long drawer out of a service truck. I don't have the funds for anything fancy yet. As soon as I find a pot of gold I'll make it from something a little more stable. I have a few pics on my myspace page. http://www.myspace.com/sparksaflyin
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