help

[joshawa]

HI, i just started welding this year in my welding class. what am i doing wrong in these pics?

using 6013. will check amps, instructer does preset though.
http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/uu98/trap91/weld1.jpg

http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/uu98/trap91/weld3.jpg

if you need better pics let me know.

[DesertRider33]

Try moving at a consistent speed in a straight line. Looks like even though you had lines scribed in the plate, you weren't able to follow them. Maybe your lens shade is too dark, or not enough light in the work area?

[i4sillypwr]

Is your lenses clean? the smoke from slag processes will yellow the cover plate and make it very difficult to see. They are cheap if you're using a 2x4 or 4x5-6 ( i can't remember what the big one is)

[SavageSun4x4]

You said you 'just started' welding class. Therein is the root of your problem. You know what a good weld looks like and I assure you that you will get there...sooner or later. That said let me add a word of CAUTION: YOUR goal is NOT to produce good looking welds, your goals is to produce good welds, good looking will come later. The old adage of 'beauty is only skin deep' really holds true in welding.

Examine your welds, cut them open, grind them down look for the internal flaws, air pockets, bubbles, etc. So at this stage of the game you welds look fine. My instructor opened up with 'frankly ladies and gentlemen, I don't give a damn what your welds look like, but I care deeply whether or not they have inner beauty...'

Focus on what is important, quality and integrity of the weld.

Below is some of the best and best looking welds you will see (no not mime, only wish)

[joshawa]

were those automated welds? on the other side i was in a straight line, but like you said probably to fast.

http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/uu98/trap91/weld2-1.jpg

[SavageSun4x4]

No, those are not automated welds. I have more pics, but those are from a guy who build and axle for his car.

Dynatrac Axles in Ca has a guy that can darn near weld that good also.

Speaking of GREAT looking welds I for one will NEVER have welds that look that good or even near it. Why? I am right handed and I have a major nerve in my right arm/shoulder (long throasic nerve) that causes my arm and hand to shake when I apply pressure like holding a welding gun and trying to draw a straight line.

BUT my welds are good, sold and strong, but never pretty, albeit they are not so ugly I need to hide them...

[weldbead]

an important thing tolearn is to watch and really see the puddle..not the arc, not the slag, the puddle...your hood needs a lot of attention to be clean and right shade, not too dark..
and that looks too hot and as stated crooked..

[DSW]

I would guess that besides being inconsistant in your motion, you are moving a bit too fast. I don't know how long those coupons are or what size rod you are using, but on 1/8" 6013 I'd say you would lay about 7-9" of weld per rod doing straigh stringers if you are moving at about the right speed. As said,you can tell this by how the weld looks as you lay it down. If you can't see the bead well, you will find this to be dificult to control.

I'll assume the amps are set close to correct, as the instructor is setting that, but I have seen instructors that are not familiar with the machines in their class. Often machines will varry one to another as to what it actually is putting out. If posible try and stay with the same machine all the time, and make a note of what the instructor sets the machine to with each type of rod.

[joshawa]

4" long plates. im right handed too weldbead. we're using #10hades and we cleaqned them all b4 we started. my instructer said we should be comfortable, which i believe im not all the time. i try to use the same machine but can be tough since we have only 11. (miller)

[lugweld]

What amps does the instructor preset too?

A 6013 is a very generous and forgiving rod. What size is it? The outside splatter tells me it is way too hot (what is the instructor setting amps at?) or you are holding a real long arc. Push the rod into the puddle and hold a 1/8 inch gap and just move the rod as the puddle fills in. Don't stare at the arc. Look in front to follow your lines, and keep looking behind the arc to see how the puddle is filling. Run the rod to you to start instead of side to side. turn the lines so they are oriented in line with your body. A side to side weld motion is harder than a natural up and down, front to back weld motion. Get started there and gradually work your skill up to you can turn the plate any direction and run a bead. In the real world, a weld may be oriented so that you cannot position yourself well to run the bead in the most comfortable position. For now start in the easiest and work to the hardest. The main goal now is puddle recognition and development.

Giving a second look, I think it may be inconsistent arc length too. If you can get it started, just hold the 6013 on the metal and drag it. I will melt off at a faster rate than the coating so that it establishes its own arc length .

[joshawa]

thanks, will try.

[joshawa]

it is 3/32 i believe. here is a more recent one i did

http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/uu98/trap91/weld4.jpg

had the teacher over shoulder for one. nmow im on 7018 and 6010. the 6010 im getting, if it doesnt stick. 7018 will try tomorrow. usually sticks. we are at 3.5amps for 6013/10 and 4 for 7018.

[joshawa]

well, here we are. a couple of months late rand this is what i got.

http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/uu98/trap91/100_0384.jpg

http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/uu98/trap91/100_0386.jpg

this on i needed to chip the slag off more.
were worked on our 7018 vertical butt/lap/T. and 6010.

here is a 6013 3/32" lap (flat)



http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/uu98/trap91/100_0208.jpg

http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/uu98/trap91/100_0210.jpg

i'm gonna try to get a better pic of this one.

[weldbead]

much improved

[joshawa]

Thanks, the first two were done this past tuesday (22). others awhile ago. bottom two i have better pics of but wont upload since it looks like they will work. i lvoe the 7018 1/8", same with the 6010 1/8". i'm making a shooting target (swinging gong). just have to find time to work on it.

[tresi]

Imho even if the instructor gives you a starting point he should better explain the current that you're using. Your not welding at 3.5 - 4amps, maybe 4 out a scale of 0-10. On 1/8' 7018 you might be running 100-130 amps. Not knowing what machine you're running it probably has 2 knobs a course adjustment range and a fine range. the course knob might set the range to 60-140 amps and then the fine range would select a setting between 60-140.
Another machine may have a single knob. If that is the case a setting of 4 would be 40% of full power. On a 250 amp machine a setting of 4 would be about a 100 amps.

[joshawa]

yea, their're millers, i looked at other machines i use and we set 3/32" at 105 and 1/8" at 120ish,(depends on metal). the 3-4 thing is on a other machine that has a scale from 0-10. i believe maybe volts?

[Grimm1]

No, not volts. Just a scale. 1 would be 10% of full power, 10 would be 100%. A stick welder should be a constant current machine. That means the amps stay steady and the voltage changes according to conditions. Tig machines are the same. Mig machines are constant voltage on the other hand. The voltage stays the same and the amps fluctuate depending on conditions.
You should post a picture of the machine. I would guess it's either really old, or it's a hobby machine.

[joshawa]

k, i can on the 4th. schools out now.

[joshawa]

http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/uu98/trap91/100_1160.jpg

miller dialarc 250

[WelderBC]

See how the dial has a 1 - 10 right?
And there should be a range setting .. something like 70 - 150 amps... (Just an example).
When you have it set to the 70 - 150 amp range each line on the dial represents a number.. example 1 would be the 70 amps, and 10 being the 150 ..... so you can figure out your amperage by the line on the dial based on the range.

Make sense?.

[Grimm1]

I don't see a range sellector on there. I see a polarity switch behind the cables, an on/off switch, a small dial (for arc starts maybe?) and the main power dial. So judging from that I would say that each number on the dial is 25 amps (250amps / 10 on the dial). So if you're setting the machine to 4, that would be 100 amps. 3.5 would be about 88 amps.

Any newer pics of your welds? Would like to see how you're progressing. The last ones you posted were looking good.

[joshawa]

it's behind the cord. i got some welds i did today and a pic of my project that is about 95% finished.

[joshawa]

well, here is my project (shooting target) and some flat buttwelds i did with 6013 and 7018.
and i will add a link to a youtube video in the spring once the snow melts and i can show it in action ( and my marksmenship skills.. :D )



http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/uu98/trap91/newcam082.jpg

http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/uu98/trap91/newcam091.jpg

http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/uu98/trap91/newcam092.jpg

http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/uu98/trap91/newcam101.jpg

http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/uu98/trap91/newcam106.jpg

^ that was 6013.

http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/uu98/trap91/newcam107.jpg

^ was 7018, and here is the penetration of the 7018.

http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/uu98/trap91/newcam110.jpg

what do y'all think? and i know there was some undercut in the 6013... my bad.

[JohnnyWelder]

You said you 'just started' welding class. Therein is the root of your problem. You know what a good weld looks like and I assure you that you will get there...sooner or later. That said let me add a word of CAUTION: YOUR goal is NOT to produce good looking welds, your goals is to produce good welds, good looking will come later. The old adage of 'beauty is only skin deep' really holds true in welding.

Examine your welds, cut them open, grind them down look for the internal flaws, air pockets, bubbles, etc. So at this stage of the game you welds look fine. My instructor opened up with 'frankly ladies and gentlemen, I don't give a damn what your welds look like, but I care deeply whether or not they have inner beauty...'

Focus on what is important, quality and integrity of the weld.

Below is some of the best and best looking welds you will see (no not mime, only wish)

How did you get a picture of my welds?

[Grimm1]

Much improved over your first pics. Can still use a little bit of refinement, but that will come with practice. Like you pointed out, there's some undercut. And I see some spots on your lap welds where you didn't wash up to the top edge. But really, good job. Keep it up.

[joshawa]

How did you get a picture of my welds?



who, me or savagesun?