TIG machine recommendations ?

[Mondo]

I am looking at acquiring a TIG machine in the next six months or so and I am seeking recommendations. I don't need or want a giagantic or superpowered machine that can weld armor plate on a Sherman tank or repair track plates on a NASA Shuttle Transporter. I am just a hobby weldor patching up this and rigging up that for some friend, neighbor, or relative who needs something fixed that requires a bit more than a spoonful of PC7 epoxy but is too small a project for most commercial welding shops to sneeze at. My current equipment includes a Lincoln MIG 140 and a Hypertherm Powermax 30. I am looking to complement this set with a similarly sized TIG. I am open to suggestions and recommendations. Let the discussions begin!

Thanks!!

-Mondo

[DSW]

First question, will you want to do alum with it, or are you happy with just doing steel and stainless?

The answer to that question will tell you if you need an AC/DC machine, or can get by with just DC. I'll also assume you want to start by looking first at new machines rather than complicate the discussion at first with used.

I definitely wanted to do alum tig. It's the primary reason I wanted to learn. That meant I needed an AC/DC machine. I narrowed it down to 2 choices. A transformer based Scyncrowave 200, or the inverter based Dynasty 200. I skipped the smaller machines as they didn't have remote for a pedal and were too low in power to do alum ( I really could have used a bit more umph on alum than I bought) Price decided me for my syncrowave over the Dynasty at 2x the cost complete, even though I would have preferred the extra options and portability of the inverter.


If you don't plan to do alum, I'd probably look at either a small machine like a Maxstar, or a bigger multi purpose machine like the XMT. The maxstar gives you the portability and plenty of functions with the fancier units. The XMT on the other hand would give you more power in tig and stick, and a good heavy duty power supply if you ever wanted to go to a heavier mig.

[DesertRider33]

A little Maxstar 150STL or STH would be an excellent choice for welding steel and stainless. It can operate on 110v and 220v power and is about the same size/weight and power requirements as your Powermax 30 plasma cutter. Comes with a quick change multi-voltage plug too, like your plasma.

[Aquafire]

Mondo- my needs were similar to yours and I did a lot of research. I chose the Syncrowave 200 and am VERY happy with it. DSW is right that the Dynasty has lots of cool features, but you pay handsomely for them and really, the extras aren't anything you need, just extra fluff. There are a LOT of happy Syncrowave owners out there.

[rode2rouen]

I started TIG with a Lincoln SW175. Great AC/DC home shop machine with decent top end output.
They show up occasionally on Craig's List for reasonable $$.


Rex

[weldbead]

hey ray hows it goin? i cant be happier with my TA 185

[DavidSim]

I bought a Lincoln V205-T AC/DC machine, it's an inverter machine so it does not use a lot of power, kinda pricey though (hey, you only live once; besides, I'm worth it).

It has a lot of bells and whistles that you (or I) probably don't need though, so that would be a consideration for sure (as mentioned above).

Regards, good luck, be happy.

[jamlit]

I think the Miller Syncrowave 200 or the Lincoln Precision Tig 225 are the best option with prices in mind for a hobby or small shop tig. Both have all the features you need including AC/DC.

[Mondo]

hey ray hows it goin? i cant be happier with my TA 185

Weldbead! I wish I could remember names.

I have been doing only some welding, more heating and beating to fab replacement parts for things like antique sleighs and fireplace cranes, but mostly playing with a '35 Atlas 12 x 24 lathe I acquired last January.

Was that your little machine at Zapster's TIG demo/forum in June of '08? As I recall it is a pretty powerful little box. Any stories to tell about it?

-Mondo

[Mondo]

I figured this inquiry would stir up a small flood of info.

Yes: I want to weld AL as well as steels.
I am not limited to 110V. I can power the machine from a 220V 20A circuit.

New? Yeah, I like to buy new tools, especially sophisticated ones. I like warrantees. I rarely have to use them but they are handier than US Savings Bonds when you need 'em (except bonds that have matured, perhaps.) But I can be entertained by used if price and condition are right.

Small and compact is important, capability to support a water cooled torch is also desired, but doesn't have to have that immediatly - could be an add-on.

Thanks for the replies! But like I said, within six months, so I'll keep reading the comments if y'all keep 'em coming!

TIA!

-Mondo

[Aquafire]

Mondo:

220 volts is nice but ONLY 20 amps??? I'm thinking you need to factor in the cost of some electrical work as well. Especially if you're going to be welding aluminum which requires a surprising amount of amperage for even thin stuff.

And you probably already know this, but I'll mention it just in case: You can't just swap in a 50 or 60 amp breaker in place of the 20 amp (many have tried). The wiring on the 20 amp line is smaller gauge, designed to hold less than 20 amps. The breaker is designed to protect the wires- If you tried pulling 50 amps through that same circuit, you would end up with molten copper and possibly a burned-down shop.

I put in a 60 amp breaker (and appropriately-sized wiring) for my Syncrowave 200 and Lincoln AC225 buzzbox. I can't recall offhand what size wire was required- possibly 6/3. Some go with 50 amps which should also be sufficient for all but the highest settings.

I checked the Syncrowave 200 manual and they indicate that at 150 Amps output, the machine draws 54 amps. They recommend an 80 amp breaker for normal operating use (or 60 amp slow-blow).

[Jay O]

Mondo,

It seems like you should really consider the TA185. As far as warranty TA offers 5 years. As far as size the machine is 16"l x 14"h x 8"w (approx.) and weights a little over 40 lbs.. As far as features inverters have more adjustments then trannies and the TA185 is easy to setup, kind of like adjusting a car stereo, no hidden menus. As far as comparing to Lincoln or Miller the TA should be able to stand toe to toe with them, and yes the miller has the most bells and whistels but most users won't ever use them or know what they are for. I would do the search and read al the info you can find .

[7A749]

If you are willing to look at used, just consider this:

Very nice, immaculate Miller S'Wave 180 SD TIG machines with all the trimmings can be had in the neighborhood of under $1200. I have seen & even sold one that was beautiful for about $1150.

Had the pedal, torch & everything.

There's some really nice inverters out there that are reasonable & good quality, but for the best bang for your buck, I would look at the 180 SD machines & see what's out there. You may land a super deal on a hardly used machine.

Sure, you'll need a little more than 20 amps to run it, but at the end of the day, even an inverter will be in & around that to get anything substantial out of it. You might as well upgrade your outlet for a future welder to cover the basics.

Just a thought. Great time to buy right now. Used market's real soft.

IMHO, of course. :)

[BruceTS]

Yes: I want to weld AL as well as steels.
I am not limited to 110V. I can power the machine from a 220V 20A circuit.


Before you even consider a welder get a subpanel installed that can handle at least 60A 220V.

I'm running a 180SD, 75A subpanel to a 60A breaker, then to a 50A slow blow fusebox from there to 50A 220v outlet.

[Boostinjdm]

Mondo:
I checked the Syncrowave 200 manual and they indicate that at 150 Amps output, the machine draws 54 amps. They recommend an 80 amp breaker for normal operating use (or 60 amp slow-blow).

I think the manual's a little off. I run my whole garage off a 50 amp breaker. Lights, electric heater, air comp, and sync 200. I'm sure that at some point over the last few years, I have run them all at once. My sync is normally set at 150amps. I do however turn everything else but the lights off when welding closer to 200 amps just in case.

[7A749]

I think the manual's a little off. I run my whole garage off a 50 amp breaker. Lights, electric heater, air comp, and sync 200. I'm sure that at some point over the last few years, I have run them all at once. My sync is normally set at 150amps. I do however turn everything else but the lights off when welding closer to 200 amps just in case.

I do too. You can really stretch it as long as you don't go overboard.

My 250DX will trip the breaker once in awhile & I can't load test some machines to their top potential either. I know you can run 80 amps on 6/3 with good success as long as you don't go nuts. Not code, but very feasible. When I rented the building, I ran all my larger 220 outlets with 6/3 on 80 amp breakers.

[weldbead]

Weldbead! I wish I could remember names.

I have been doing only some welding, more heating and beating to fab replacement parts for things like antique sleighs and fireplace cranes, but mostly playing with a '35 Atlas 12 x 24 lathe I acquired last January.

Was that your little machine at Zapster's TIG demo/forum in June of '08? As I recall it is a pretty powerful little box. Any stories to tell about it?

-Mondo
yeah thats the one. only good to say. i think you were witness to the worstthing "it" ever did( i did it)..when i plugged the torch in the wrong hole and blew the snot out of the tungsten..live and learn

i bought an old lathe this summer(39 south bend) and gotta get into learning how touse it..

[DavidSim]

>>Zapster's TIG demo/forum in June of '08<<

Has there been anymore of these types of events?

Are there any plans for another event of this type in the future?

[weldbead]

as i recall it was september and i aint heard zap offer another one...

[Aquafire]

I think the manual's a little off... I run my whole garage off a 50 amp breaker. Lights, electric heater, air comp, and sync 200...

I would have to agree, Boostinjdm- I think the manual is conservative and only what they recommend for industrial use.

I'm routinely welding aluminum at 170 and 180 amps output, sometimes more- and if the Syncrowave were to actually draw 54 amps when set at 150 amps output, I'd surely be pushing the limits of my 60 amp breaker (which is not a "slow blow") at those outputs. Yet I've never once tripped the breaker. So it must be conservative.

In any event, Mondo- a 20 amp breaker won't cut it and 50 or 60 is what you'll need to run the Syncrowave and not be limited to tin-foil. :)

[Mondo]

yeah thats the one. only good to say. i think you were witness to the worstthing "it" ever did( i did it)..when i plugged the torch in the wrong hole and blew the snot out of the tungsten..live and learn

Yes, I witnessed an excellent learning experience that day!

i bought an old lathe this summer(39 south bend) and gotta get into learning how touse it..

Congratulations on the acquisition of the SB! I started out looking for a SB but picked up the cheapo cheap and am using that as a learing device. The SB size I'l like to have is much bigger but I have no space at this time.

What power does your TA 185 need for a source?

-Mondo

[Mondo]

Mondo:

220 volts is nice but ONLY 20 amps??? I'm thinking you need to factor in the cost of some electrical work as well. Especially if you're going to be welding aluminum which requires a surprising amount of amperage for even thin stuff.

And you probably already know this, but I'll mention it just in case: You can't just swap in a 50 or 60 amp breaker in place of the 20 amp (many have tried). The wiring on the 20 amp line is smaller gauge, designed to hold less than 20 amps. The breaker is designed to protect the wires- If you tried pulling 50 amps through that same circuit, you would end up with molten copper and possibly a burned-down shop.

I put in a 60 amp breaker (and appropriately-sized wiring) for my Syncrowave 200 and Lincoln AC225 buzzbox. I can't recall offhand what size wire was required- possibly 6/3. Some go with 50 amps which should also be sufficient for all but the highest settings.

I checked the Syncrowave 200 manual and they indicate that at 150 Amps output, the machine draws 54 amps. They recommend an 80 amp breaker for normal operating use (or 60 amp slow-blow).



220V @ 20 A is all I needed to fullly power the PowerMax 30
If I get something that has a higher demand I can run another circuit. The house main panel still has several no-longer used dual slots from where the electric heat was taken out. Pulling new cable to the garage will take less than an hour. But I won't be fabricating or repairing nuclear submarine hulls or mining machine tracks so I won't need joules galore.

-Mondo