HF mig has anybody

[comp]

add'ed gas to one ??? mine is 220

[comp]

everyone is using fluxwire:confused:

[Sandy]

Probably not a lot of folks here run that brand.

Is it prep'd and ready for gas?

[comp]

instructions say it can be added, but there is no part # for the kit...not sure where the unit was built ???

[comp]

instructions say it can be added, but there is no part # for the kit...not sure where the unit was built ???
nobody :cry:

[haywire]

nobody :cry:
Did you get your gas hooked up yet?...What model number HF Mig do you have?

[comp]

Did you get your gas hooked up yet?...What model number HF Mig do you have?
nope,,have been sidetracked with a bad back:(
it's 220,,don't have # right now

[haywire]

nope,,have been sidetracked with a bad back:(
it's 220,,don't have # right now
I had a 220V model "Dual Mig 151" from HF that had a gas hose already attached to it. All I had to do was buy a regulator from HF and a tank from a local welding supply house and I was in business. HF also sells a 20 cubic foot tank for about $75. Unfortunately, things didn't work out with the welder, so I ended up returning it for a refund, and purchasing a Lincoln 175 Plus.
...With the difference in purchase price of about $500, I sorta wish the HF mig had worked out for me :(
...But!...I do really like my Lincoln, and I also like the mig cart I purchased from HF for $27. The cart is very sturdy, with the only weakness (IMHO), being the puny rear wheels and front casters which I have already replaced with much more heavy duty units. Also, the bolts and nuts they give you to assemble it with are a bit rough, but do in fact hold it together.

Anyway, I'm wondering if your welder has the hose attached to it?

-Vic

[comp]

that sounds like the model # i don't have a hose,,,and the paper work doesn't say how to hook-up

[haywire]

that sounds like the model # i don't have a hose,,,and the paper work doesn't say how to hook-up
You will need to check on the back of your welder to see if it has a brass "push-on" hose barb coming out the back of it where you can attach a hose. I think it is about a 1/4" fitting. If it is a "151" it should have this.
When you can get a chance to look at it, LMK what you find.

-Vic

[comp]

You will need to check on the back of your welder to see if it has a brass "push-on" hose barb coming out the back of it where you can attach a hose. I think it is about a 1/4" fitting. If it is a "151" it should have this.
When you can get a chance to look at it, LMK what you find.

-Vic
Cool,,, what triggers the gas release then ???

[haywire]

Cool,,, what triggers the gas release then ???
It's automatically turned on and begins flowing when you pull the trigger. all you have to do is open your regulator valves.

-Vic

[comp]

so i just need to check for a valve where the line connects

[haywire]

so i just need to check for a valve where the line connects
No...the valves I am referring to are the valves the regulator will have. You will have to buy the regulator, and screw it onto a Argon/CO2 tank that you will also have to buy. Your welder does not have any other valves on it...it is all ready to go just the way it is. You will also have to purchase a length of hose to go from the Argon/CO2 regulator to the brass brad input on the back of the welder. This hose "should" have come with your welder if you purchased it new, however you can generally get this or similar hose, purchased by the foot, at your larger home improvement stores like Lowes or Home Depot.

-Vic

[comp]

well i'm lost how it know's when to release the gas when the trigger is pulled:(

[haywire]

well i'm lost how it know's when to release the gas when the trigger is pulled:(
When you pull the trigger a signal is sent from the trigger switch to a internal solenoid in your mig welder that opens to allow the flow of gas, and closes when you release the trigger, so technically, there is another valve...you just can't see it.

-Vic

[comp]

When you pull the trigger a signal is sent from the trigger switch to a enternal solenoid in your mig welder that opens to allow the flow of gas, and closes when you release the trigger, so technically, there is another valve...you just can't see it.

-Vic
OK i thought there had to be,,,why is it hard to see

[haywire]

OK i thought there had to be,,,why is it hard to see
...cause it's internal...inside the machine. You would have to take the welder apart to see it.

[rocknweld]

when you squeese the trigger it makes contact closeuer and opens the gas valve inside the machine

[comp]

THANKS a ton :cool2: :cool2:

[Popwri]

I have a HF wirefeed Mig-100 I use fluxcore and keep on making money with it. It,s not the welder but the weldor.Weld it together with it clean up the weld with the grinder and go about your business.

[comp]

I have a HF wirefeed Mig-100 I use fluxcore and keep on making money with it. It,s not the welder but the weldor.Weld it together with it clean up the weld with the grinder and go about your business.
do you have any ploblems with paint sticking on the flux welds ???

[Sandy]

do you have any ploblems with paint sticking on the flux welds ???

Porosity is the culprit, not the flux. Make good solid welds, clean them up good, no rust pockets, prep, prime and paint.

[comp]

Porosity is the culprit, not the flux. Make good solid welds, clean them up good, no rust pockets, prep, prime and paint.
Oh,,,painters told me it was from flux.....Thanks

[Sandy]

Oh,,,painters told me it was from flux.....Thanks

Well it could be, if you leave flux embedded in the weld. That part there is more of a play on words than the fault of the flux core process. The flux for flux core is no or little different than the fluxes with SMAW. You would get the same result if you left slag inclusions with a stick machine. There should not be any flux remaining in the weldment or porosity when done properly. A properly done weld won't be anything but metal.

I'm not pointing at anyone in particular here but just going to hammer on the real cause instead of the process or materials used. These rumors get started because folks don't adhere to good practices no matter what process they use. They take a rusted out body panel, do a goobered up flux core job on it, wave some kind of oxide sand paper over it, wipe it off with one of the wifes good towells, hit it with a rattle can and then blame the whole mess on the flux core. :)

Heck I've got a few places on projects that the bead is rusting out from behind the paint too. They were solid wire and gas. I do more crappy welds than most folks. And I know when I paint over those bad spots what's going to happen sooner or later. :) Yep, it's my fault.

[comp]

oh i agree prep is everything for paint ,,,it must be harder to not leave for most than

[Popwri]

I always try to make a good solid weld on clean metal only, no old paint or rust, may take awhile to get down to clean metal . Weld, wire brush, then prime and paint. Job done.
Next project.