Need critique and guidance

[A Squared]

6013 0n 3"x 3/16" plate DC Electrode negative

http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n315/ASquared_2006/rec/007.jpg?t=1270529450

I've read where 6013 is described as a "contact" rod, that you can hold it against the steel as you weld. that's what's going on in the top bead. I'm moving it in contact with the steel, with no side motion. I wind up with a high narrow bead with elongated ripples. Am I misunderstanding what is meant by "contact" rod?

The middle 2 beads, I'm using a slight stirring motion, and holding the rod a little away from the puddle. The ugly spot in the middle was where had to reposition my hand ad moved the arc away from the puddle wile trying to get repositioned, so I know what happened there. The ripples look a little elongated to me, my impression is that I should be shooting for more circular ripples, is that correct? if so am I traveling too fast? Any tips on getting a good start to a bead? I think maybe I'm not getting things hot enough at first, with high bead sort stuck on top of the steel, until I get settled into the bead.


The mess on the bottom, well the base metal was getting pretty hot and things were running all over the place. but it had a "feature" that I'm curious about as I see it on occasion. the bead has a depression running along the top, almost a groove, parallel to the bead and cutting across the ripples. You can see it in a couple of placed toward the middle of that bead. What causes that? metal shrinking as it cools? how do you avoid it?

Any feedback would be appreciated. It's kinda tough trying to figure this out with no input. My results are getting more consistent, but I'm wondering if I'm just practicing my mistakes until I get really good at them.

Can anyone recommend any books which have good descriptions and pictures that would help give me a better idea of what I should be shooting for and how?

[Jay O]

If you can,get a thicker piece of plate to practice on that way you can play with the amps without burning through. Also you should overlap your welds by half on your plate and when you start a new bead start the rod an inch or so away from where you want to start from that way your preheating the rod and steel when starting the next bead. I do like the look of the center 2 beads so you can see that a slight oscilation will smooth out the bead appearence and will help you control the size of the weld you want or need. Improving your skills when it comes to stick doesn't come from the number of rods you burn but more from the number of pounds you burn, so just keep burning rod.

[weldgault]

6013 - DCEP (positive) JG

[snoeproe]

6013 is what I call a drag rod. Meaning you use a very short arc, basicly draging the rod in close contact with your base metal. You can move the end of the rod as you wish, just as long as you keep in close contact with the work. Your middle two beads look solid.
Always use DC+ (reverse polarity) if you have that option when stick welding.

[A Squared]

Thanks for the feedback, folks. I haven't been having any problems with burning through 3/16 plate, even when I cranked the amps up.

Why the recommendation to use reverse polarity? From reading, I understand that DCEP will result in deeper penetration and less transfer of metal from the rod, but why is this desirable particularly with 6013? Not trying to argu by any means, just trying to understand things better. I did try running some beads today with DCEP and it did seem like it was melting deeper.

[Crawford]

Thanks for the feedback, folks. I haven't been having any problems with burning through 3/16 plate, even when I cranked the amps up.

Why the recommendation to use reverse polarity? From reading, I understand that DCEP will result in deeper penetration and less transfer of metal from the rod, but why is this desirable particularly with 6013? Not trying to argu by any means, just trying to understand things better. I did try running some beads today with DCEP and it did seem like it was melting deeper.

More heat into the base metal, less into the electrode, better penetration. Why is it desirable in 6013 which is a low pen rod? Not sure, but i was always told the same thing.

[Chucez]

Have you tried running it on AC? I was always told that 6013 was more appropriate for AC because the potassium in the electrode covering stabilizes the arc.

[Jay O]

When first going to school and learning to stick weld it seems that people naturally work their way up to an amperage that they a comfortable with and stop. Now being out in the field for a few years you get use the running rods at a higher setting and work your way down from being to hot to just right. You should give that a try, run your rod to hot and work your way down to a setting you are comfortable with and that where you will need thicker plate.

DCEP or DCRP the electrode receives 70 % of the heat giving it more energy to travel across the arc and push its self into the parent metal aka penetration/fusion. I believe fusion is a better term sometimes to explain welding. You want the electrode metal to fuse with the parent metal and mix to become homogeneous and thats where the strength comes from.

[A Squared]

I did try running a few beads with AC, seemed like there was more spatter and it didn't seem to weld as smoothly. What would be the advantages to using AC? Jay-o, I'll give your suggestion of working down i amperage a try.

[pulser]

The advantage of AC would be cheaper equipment and no magnetic arc blow.

[Mr.F]

6013 can run in A/C DCEN and DCEP. Remember that 6013 is a fill freeze electrode who characteristics do not include deep digging which make it ideal for sheet metal work. I would think it would run best in DCEN given its usage on thinner metals. I looks to me like your heat is pretty good but maybe your travel angle is too steep which will cause a weld to stand proud.