I learned a new trick!

[1-800miner]

On of my framing squares got run over and bent. I was going to boomerang it towards the trash can. My buddy grabs it and a hammer and heads for the anvil. The square was reading more than a ninety so he starts tapping on the outside corner and comparing it to a good square. It took thirty seconds and he had it true. He said that if it is less than a ninety you tap the inside corner. You are simply thinning and spreading the metal on which ever corner you choose to bring it square again.

[farmersamm]

That's cool

I've always thought of these things in terms of heat. Shrinking to compensate for stretching.

But I never thought of flowing the metal outwards to accomplish the same thing, on the opposite side, with a hammer. I think auto body guys are familiar with these kind of effects.

If I understand correctly, the metal was "expanded" instead of shrunk. :blob2:

[Scott Young]

just look at any good carpenter's square...it will have nail punch marks on the inside or outside corner.

you can take a piece of plywood and square off on one edge. flip the square and see how the line you drew lines up with the square. I have 5-6 squares and every one of them have nail punch marks in them. When i would hire a new carpenter I would always look to see his square. If it wasn't true, I always had to wonder how long he had been carpentering.

[Scott Young]

That's cool

I've always thought of these things in terms of heat. Shrinking to compensate for stretching.

But I never thought of flowing the metal outwards to accomplish the same thing, on the opposite side, with a hammer. I think auto body guys are familiar with these kind of effects.

If I understand correctly, the metal was "expanded" instead of shrunk. :blob2:

yes the metal is expanded.

[farmersamm]

.....

[kenklingerman]

That's a handy little piece of information there!

And also, a good way to fix a four foot bubble level is too repeatedly swing it against a tree so no one will ever use it again:D

[1-800miner]

I did that with a wooden level.i got a handful of splinters! bad idea!

[Crawford]

And also, a good way to fix a four foot bubble level is too repeatedly swing it against a tree so no one will ever use it again:D

I suppose thats relative to the cost of the level :laugh:

[William McCormick Jr]

We do that to welds sometimes to get the same effect. If you crush a weld or hammer it flat, it expands sideways.

Sincerely,


William McCormick

[SR20steve]

Also sounds like a really mean prank to pull on a co worker to "un square" his (or her) square:D.

[kenklingerman]

I suppose thats relative to the cost of the level :laugh:

Yeah, it's the cheap ones that can't be re-calibrated. in concrete, we always buy cheap ones, just make sure to do a cross check before you leave the store! It amazes me that my coworkers still don't understand the cross check, my boss once checked a plumb bubble and acted like I was being a smart *** when I told him that won't help for the level bubble which is what he was concerned about. DUH!

[daddy]

The square trick is a good one. Used it a few months ago on some "shop tools"... Hammer, square,pry bar, what's the difference?:dizzy:

What gets me is levels. I suppose If I'd just lower my expectations, It would make more sense, but the last time I bought a 4 footer I had to search through the whole rack till I found one that wasn't off. Some of 'em were a quarter bubble out.

And don't get me started on those fancy wood jobs with the brass edges. Hmm. Wood. A natural fiber whose dimensions change with temperature and humidity. Great choice for a level.:confused::confused:

[enlpck]

Best level I have (other than the cast iron machinist levels) is a wooden job with brass edges. Thing has so much spar varnish soaked into it that I doubt temperature or humidity will even do much, but I still check it every time it gets used, and true the bubble if needed. I'v never had an aluminum job that has held up as well, and most of them are a pain to adjust, if they can be adjusted at all, with anything other than a sharpie marker.

Then again, I learned a LONG time ago: always turn the level and split the difference when it really matters.

My framing squares tend to be the cheapest available with true measure marks. First thing I do to most of them is grind off the outside corner, second is pimple them with a punch to square up.