Dynasty 350

[browndog]

Learning to tig anodized aluminum and was wondering what settings to use for schedule 40 1 inch pipe? The machine is as the title states. Any advice would be great.
I have 25% helium and 75% argon. Thoriated tung 3/32 . On off button on the torch.
Sundown looking for your input as I have a boat with a pipewelders tower on it and love the appearance of the welds.

[Broccoli1]

ewe just gotta search.....


http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtalk/showthread.php?p=334757


http://archive.metalformingmagazine.com/1999/11/miller.pdf


http://www.mommaville.com/forums/images/smilies/primp.gif

[SundownIII]

Browndog,

You got a capable machine but I know nothing about your welding experience or background.

First off, you can "lose" the mix. Argon is all you need.

Bump welding is the "process" used to weld anodized aluminum. It's not a process that's easily taught on an internet board. Best way to learn the process is 1 on 1 with someone who's proficient. Pipewelders, for instance will take a guy straight from trade school and teach him the process. He'll spend about two years doing fitup/fab before he makes his first weld on a customer tower.

If you just want to "give it a whirl", here's some basic settings you may want to work with.

Amps 180-205 (the more proficient you become, the more amps you'll use)
Tungsten I prefer the 2% lanthanated, 1/8"
Gas Lens With about a #7 cup (depending on position/access)
AC Freq 80-90
Pulse Turn it off.
Balance 80% (you don't want a large etch zone extending out beyond the bead)
Waveform Soft Squarewave (Forget about the "advanced settings". IE Independent Amplitude/Amperage Control.

You'll notice that these settings (with the exception of the AC Freq) are not too far off of what you can get out of a Sync 250/350.:D

What you're looking to achieve is a "quick bead", using the hi amps to help "blast" the oxides from the weld puddle. You're using the arc force to assist in the inherent AC cleaning effect.

Basically it involves: Button on, quick puddle, dip filler, button off. Move. Button on, quick puddle, dip filler, button off. Move. Etc, Etc.

Really a "manual pulsing" process. Postflow should be set so as to keep the bead covered with argon at all times. Timing the process is key and very difficult to explain over the net. You don't show a location so that's another issue. If you let me know where you're located, I may be able to "put you in touch" with someone who may be willing to at least show you how the process is performed. Maybe not though, since a lot of the guys doing this type work don't want the "let's try this at home" guys mucking in their livelihood.

Post weld will involve painting the bead with Rustoleum Silver to prevent oxidation. Most of the better shops use 5356 filler although some swear by 4043. I prefer 5356.

Not trying to discourage you, but most "hobbiest welders" will never spend the "hood time" necessary to master the timing involved in bump welding.

What type boat do you have? Suspect it's somewhat substantial, since that's Pipewelder's clientele. In my "former life" I was a dealer for Bertram, Egg Harbor, Tollycraft, Worked for a company that represented Viking and Hatteras Yachts. Good friends with several of the FL custom builders, as well as most of the NC custom guys.

Good Luck

[SundownIII]

I freaking love it when a poster asks a "specific question" and then just disappears, never to be heard from again.:realmad:

[browndog]

Sundown
Sorry for not acknowledging to your response to my question. It was kinda rude to not follow up.
I tried the settings and they worked well with the exception of the tungsten getting little tiny balls on the end of it and sometimes developed little splits.. I have played with the settings and have found that the best welds come when the tungsten gets balled and has a shiny appearance. Although the arc is hard to control with the balled tungsten. I also notice that the weld puddle sometimes develops a little crack after cooling. I have been playing with the machine for just about two years and can lay some decent beads. I have welded up a few things for a friend of mine on a tuna boat, made a poling platform for a little skiff I have and built a T top for a buddy and various other items. They all have held up pretty well but the appearance of the welds leave a little to be desired.

I live on Cape Cod and would love to see how someone with real experience runs there machine.
As for the boat its a 36 Albemarle Express.
Thanks for all the info. Please pm me with your number as i would love to chat, Rob

[con_fuse9]

Sundown, Browndog,

How much, if any, bevel did you have on the pipe? Does it matter with 200Amps?

And are these essentially t-joints?

Thanks

[sn0border88]

First off, you can "lose" the mix. Argon is all you need.

Curious on this part here. I understand that you dont need a He mix to bump weld, but wouldnt it make it easier because of the increased heat input without increasing amperage?


Waveform Soft Squarewave (Forget about the "advanced settings". IE Independent Amplitude/Amperage Control


Again, I would think that sometime like the triangle wave which helps with puddle fluidity and allows for a fast travel speed would be an asset on something like this.

And since he is having problems with the tungsten splitting, an increased ratio of EN-EP amperage would give him the heat he needs without killing his tungsten at the same time. Or does the decrease in EP amperage prevent the oxides from getting push out of the pool as well?