powertig 200dx welds

[sixturbosix]

I bought this machine in sept. of this year and would like to say that it is easy to use.I personally have never welded in my life until aug.of this year when I was at a friends house and he had a Miller Diversion 180.I ask if I could give it a try and got hooked instantly.I could not afford a Miller and decided to try Everlast.I have spoke out for them some because I do like the product for the price.Actually my friend says he would have bought one if he had known about them before he bought his Miller.It is alot easier to use then the
Miller.I can't run near as good of beads with it as I can the Everlast.I just started to weld aluminum about a week ago and would like some input on my progress.It is alot harder then steel to weld for sure but I am always looking for a challenge.Any input is appreciated.59376

59377

[CurreyR]

Let's here the material in the photos, filler, and settings used.

A back side phot would also be nice.

Also, any pics of something actually welded together?

[SundownIII]

sixturbosix,

I don't know if you're getting paid by Everlast (it would appear that that might be the case), but you're sure working hard to get them banned from WW.

Congratulations. Your support is appreciated.:D


Anyone who takes "welder advice" from a guy who "learned last week" deserves what they get.

[Rugar]

sixturbosix,

I don't know if you're getting paid by Everlast (it would appear that that might be the case), but you're sure working hard to get them banned from WW.

Congratulations. Your support is appreciated.:D


Anyone who takes "welder advice" from a guy who "learned last week" deserves what they get.

Did you even read his post? He was asking for advise, not giving it. Would it have been to far below your level expertise to help him out? Would it have been different if he was using a Miller or Lincoln and asking for advice? He isn't trying to sell a welder, he just wants to learn how to be a better TIG welder. Same as the rest of us. If your not willing to give advise in a post asking for it, why even respond?

[specter]

Hi sixturbosix I agree that some pics of the backside would help to see how you penetration was. The welds on the top row of the piece look a bit cold without penetration. The beads also need to be closer together! Instead of looking like they were laid on top of each other they should look flatter with more fusion together. They beads in the 2nd pic lower right corner were looking better. Keep up your practice.

[Matt_Maguire]

You keep putting welding stuff on the nice table etc. and practice will be tough with two broken arms! :blob2:

Settings, filler, etc. would be nice.

Matt

[BCRD]

Did you even read his post? He was asking for advise, not giving it. Would it have been to far below your level expertise to help him out? Would it have been different if he was using a Miller or Lincoln and asking for advice? He isn't trying to sell a welder, he just wants to learn how to be a better TIG welder. Same as the rest of us. If your not willing to give advise in a post asking for it, why even respond?

Yes he is giving advice.

quote: "It is alot easier to use then the Miller.I can't run near as good of beads with it as I can the Everlast."

That is advice, and could be construed as "trying to sell a welder". I have to admit, I get a little peeved when somebody who "learned to weld last week" sings about how much better it is than a Miller (or other proven brand).

The proper way to ask for advice on learning to weld (nothing at all wrong with that, this is a great place to get advice) is to post pictures in the MIG / TIG / Stick forum, and list all parameters (including welder model, so we know what adjustments you have available). There is nothing wrong with owning an Everlast, just don't try to "sell" them as its quite a touchy subject (so don't put fuel on the fire...):blob2:

Jason

[lugweld]

Sundown,
Since it seems you have experience in being banned from sites, you should be an authority on what it takes to make it happen...But SIX was not paid NOR encouraged to post anything.

Six,

Please just stick to the facts of the welds for peace and harmony's sake...If someone expresses an opinion about how they like something, or dislike something, it isn't allowed if its in regard to a Chinese made unit.

I do think you are a little cold...What are your settings? Possibly you might be holding the torch a little high or off angle.

[SundownIII]

When a poster comes on and starts with "I'm new at tig welding" and in his next sentence states, "It welds better than a Miller", I call BULL SH!T.

How the heck does he know. He doesn't even know how to weld.

And Luggy, just because you "sold your principles" to the high bidder, don't tell me how to post on a Welding Forum.:realmad:

[Scott Young]

:help:I gotta quit reading these:help:

[Scott Young]

what did yor cut that aluminum with? It looks like slag?? is it the backside of a plasma cut?

[ZTFab]

Once again....here we are.

Why is it that all of these new members are habitually posting about import welders?

...and why is it that every time they post it sounds like an infomercial?

If you are looking for critique, advice, or comments about your welding and not your welder, then why post the thread in the Product Technical forums?

....and then drone on about how supposedly great your machine is? ..with no real basis for a comparison, might I add.

A McDonald's hamburger probably tastes pretty good to someone who is starving.

If advice or help with your welding is all that you are looking for then this should have been posted in the General Welding or MIG/TIG/STICK forums where members would be more than happy to offer their help and guidance.

Leave the advertising out of it.

[jsfab]

Do you really want to know why, ZT? They are bribed, look here, first post ..... http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=46745

I will quote,,,,, "I even posted very positive information of my experiences in multiple welding forums to help their company. In exchange I was told that they would be able to hook me up with accessories, specifically a free welding cart that has still yet to show up…"

It's funny that Miller, Lincoln, TA, ESAB, etc. doesn't feel any need to do anything of the sort to publicize their products .....

I would suggest, with admin's permission of course, that you start adding a few brand names, those that abuse the forum, to the obscenity filters.

[ZTFab]

Thanks JS.

It was a rhetorical question but your post is still pertinent to the situation.

The constant gilding is ridiculous. As you said, no other manufacturer feels the need to do so as their products prove themselves time and time again.

Why is it that the importers feel the need to create this urgent sense of reliability and credibility? If the product is good then it doesn't need to be shoved down people's throats all while trying to convince them of how good it is.

Quality is quality and if the product is good then it will warrant the reputation of a quality product. If it is an inferior product or the company that is selling it lacks integrity or good support and customer service then the product will earn the reputation it deserves.

Stop trying to generate a reputation that the product hasn't earned yet.

It reminds me of young weldors; Full of piss and vinegar and constantly trying to tell everyone how much they know because they are fresh out of school. If they just shut up for a while and open their eyes and ears they would learn more than they could ever imagine.

[7A749]

A McDonald's hamburger probably tastes pretty good to someone who is starving.



Damn. That was funny! :laugh:

Really. :blush:

I personally think Action = Reaction in these latest slew of "ChiCom" threads is the case here. Someone, or a few someones are pushing a certain couple of someones buttons & the show begins. Sure, it could be credible. Well, maybe.

I sure don't give a tin weasel about it FWIW.

The bickering & locked out threads is just more garbage to sort thru.

To quote the rapper DMX...."Here we go again"............

Jesus wept.......

[zapster]

Well I must add that the MILLER ABP/330 is the most kick a$$ welding machine I ever used!
Blows off all the Chi-Com's with ease...
Simple yet easy to use..
No fancy gadgets to go haywire at the wrong possible moment..
Set it and forget it feature is always nice..
460 amps of pure bliss...


...zap!

[SundownIII]

Zap,

And you need to add:

"And it's been doing it for 20 damn years":laugh:

[zapster]

Zap,

And you need to add:

"And it's been doing it for 20 damn years":laugh:

Longer than that..:D

...zap!

[welderShane]

Zap,

And you need to add:

"And it's been doing it for 20 damn years":laugh:

That and the citys power supply goes low when you use it:laugh:

[turbocad6]

ha, my 330 a/bp has been going since 73... that's 37 years old :waving: it still works perfect & can blow a hole the size of a golf ball through 1/8" aluminum plate in a second flat at full tilt :laugh: I only hope my brand new dynasty lasts as long as I know this 330 will :blush:

[sixturbosix]

Here are some pictures of the rear of the large piece.I see some penetration on the end but it is barely humped elsewhere.I was using the foot pedal and don't really know the amps,but the ac balance was as far left as it would go and the ac freq. was at about 1:00 clock.I was using 1/16 aluminum filler.I was using 3/32 thoriated tungsten.the smaller plate was done with 1/16 1.5 lanthanated.My argon was at about 15cf.Lugweld do you know what settings are best for aluminum on this welder.By the way I do like my friends Diversion 180 it is a heck of a welder I just wish it had adjustable ac balance and freq.Thanks.59498

[Scott Young]

what did you cut it with?

[ASE_MasterTech]

Well I must add that the MILLER ABP/330 is the most kick a$$ welding machine I ever used!
Blows off all the Chi-Com's with ease...
Simple yet easy to use..
No fancy gadgets to go haywire at the wrong possible moment..
Set it and forget it feature is always nice..
460 amps of pure bliss...


...zap!

Got lot's of Miller & Lincoln equipment where I work that haven't always held up. Now i'm not saying they're junk, I'm just saying, they ain't perfect either..
I am interested in the performance of these 'chi-com' products, as I work hard for what i earn, & i realize that any competition will certainly result in product line improvements industry wide..
I remember a time when Honda, Toyota, & Hyundai were considered 'import garbage', yet they managed to be significantly better then the "Big Three" products (Chevy, Ford, Chrysler) for the American public (remember the Vega, Pinto, Celebrity, Cavalier, K-car Chrysler, etc-etc-etc...), & in doing so, not only improved the quality of the 'Big Three', but also managed to eliminate the practice of "planned obsolescence" the the domestic auto makers embraced..
I hope that this forum will continue to be civil (on both sides) so I (& others) can determine without prejudice which product to choose..

[lugweld]

You are pretty close on the AC. Move the frequency up to about 2:00. You didn't mention the thickness of the aluminum, at least what I can see... and you need to know your approximate amps. Are you on full throttle? Where is your pedal knob located?

Couple of things I can suggest:

1) Figure out your amps. The foot pedal rheostat will give a you range of adjustment form 0-10 roughly,yielding a reading between 5-200 amps. But while welding you'll actually get a true readout of the amps, if you take a quick glance.

2) Go up to a little larger filler, 3/32.

3) Hold your tungsten close as possible. How high off are you? You'll find a little better wet in if it is closer, instead of turning up the amps.

Incidentally are you using the Everlast gauge? Are you measuring it from the gauge or compensating? It registers in lpm.

[ZTFab]

ASE_MasterTech....

That horse has been beat to death...and beyond.

Drop it.

[sixturbosix]

No lugweld I am using a different set of gauges that read in psi and cfh I believe.I try to stay as close with the arc as I can.My pedal is set on 10 but I don't have to push it hard to achieve these beads.Should it be adjusted so full pedal is max of what I need to run the bead?I have to say that the pedal is this welders worst feature.It needs to be lower profile in my opinion but you get use to it over time.Do you actually touch the puddle with the filler rod or let it drip.I touch the puddle but I am not sure if this is correct.I will try to post some pictures of T-joint aluminum welds I practiced on to get some input also.Like I said from the start I can do pretty good welds on steel but aluminum has been quite a challenge.

[Rojodiablo]

No lugweld I am using a different set of gauges that read in psi and cfh I believe.I try to stay as close with the arc as I can.My pedal is set on 10 but I don't have to push it hard to achieve these beads.Should it be adjusted so full pedal is max of what I need to run the bead?I have to say that the pedal is this welders worst feature.It needs to be lower profile in my opinion but you get use to it over time.Do you actually touch the puddle with the filler rod or let it drip.I touch the puddle but I am not sure if this is correct.I will try to post some pictures of T-joint aluminum welds I practiced on to get some input also.Like I said from the start I can do pretty good welds on steel but aluminum has been quite a challenge.

it's usually a good idea to have a little extra amps on the pedal; you can use it to start a puddle quick and hot, then back down. Adding filler you should be dabbing into the puddle, on one of the leading edges, off to the side. If you dab center, you are most likely to touch the tip, and likely to oxidize the filler, or overheat it. You will see blobs falling in, or rolling up on the filler rod, and then you have to shake it off or cut the blob off. T joints can be a real bear. Start on the thicker piece, or on the larger piece. Get the puddle forming, then drag it onto the other piece and add filler as you go.

Loved the bribe quote. Wow, what a fun week that was.........:dizzy: As ZT stated, let's keep to welding.

[ASE_MasterTech]

ASE_MasterTech....

That horse has been beat to death...and beyond.

Drop it.
Sorry, my apologies..
Wasn't trying to start any trouble, just wanted to express my interest in 'other then brand name' welding machines capabilities..
Please excuse, no harm intended...

[sixturbosix]

Is that Zapsters mustang in the photo that appears in his posts?

[lugweld]

The pedals have some very close similarities to the Miller rfc 23 pedal in design, and height.Though resistance values are different, there are plenty of similarities. An aftermarket company has started customizing their pedals for our units. PM me and I will see if I can find the information. We are changing up the design to a lower profile, but with any change in design, someone is going to say they like the old one... The DX is the only one that has the limiting rheostat though. If you are welding at 10 (200 amps), then you are not giving yourself the maximum control the pedal affords to weld what it appears you are welding. You should adjust it down and give yourself about 20% more power than you need only. Running it at 10 is fine, if you feel comfortable with it, but realize you don't have as fine of resolution.

As far as dipping the rod into the puddle Rojo is right...on the leading edge or side, not in the middle of the pool or directly under the arc. I would only add, watch your torch angle. Don't pull the rod out of the area of the gas shielding. If your torch angle is too great, you'll end up with a mess on the end of your rod and instinctively want to pull it back too far.

[Rojodiablo]

Great point Lug; the torch angle makes a huge difference, especially when you are newer to tigging. Of course, with more torch hours, you will find the best angles for how you like to weld, and you will find ways to adapt to successfully weld angles, inside corners, around tube, upside down, etc. Gas flow and the cup will also play a role in this stuff, and only seat time will show you the subtle differences.

[sixturbosix]

Thanks rojodiablo and lug for the info.I will try to put it to good use.

[revkev6]

The pedals have some very close similarities to the Miller rfc 23 pedal in design, and height.Though resistance values are different, there are plenty of similarities. An aftermarket company has started customizing their pedals for our units. PM me and I will see if I can find the information. We are changing up the design to a lower profile, but with any change in design, someone is going to say they like the old one... The DX is the only one that has the limiting rheostat though. If you are welding at 10 (200 amps), then you are not giving yourself the maximum control the pedal affords to weld what it appears you are welding. You should adjust it down and give yourself about 20% more power than you need only. Running it at 10 is fine, if you feel comfortable with it, but realize you don't have as fine of resolution.

As far as dipping the rod into the puddle Rojo is right...on the leading edge or side, not in the middle of the pool or directly under the arc. I would only add, watch your torch angle. Don't pull the rod out of the area of the gas shielding. If your torch angle is too great, you'll end up with a mess on the end of your rod and instinctively want to pull it back too far.

huh, that's interesting. I'm still putting my equipment together so I have zero seat time at tig, but I had never read about feeding from the side. I just assumed that you had to feed from the direction of travel as that is what i've seen done. Good to know for a tight space!

[lugweld]

Not just the side, side like you think.... You are still feeding from the front, but putting the rod on the side edge of the puddle. The heat is being directed in front of the weld and will melt the rod too quickly, especially on aluminum. There is a neat little cross over technique that a friend showed me one time, moving the torch from one side of the puddle while moving the rod to the other side, melting off just the right amount of metal. With this technique the rod is kept almost in the puddle continously and heat is kept low.

[revkev6]

okay, I think I'm following you now. you are still holding the rod parallel to the bead but feeding off to the side of the puddle out of line with the electrode.

[sixturbosix]

I sometimes seem to have alot of trouble when doing a butt joint weld with aluminum.Does anyone have any good info or tips on this.

[lugweld]

Bevel it.:laugh:

How thick?

[sixturbosix]

Somwhere around 1/8 in aluminum give or take a little.It sometimes doesn't want to melt together at first.Both pieces start to puddle but don't run together.

[lugweld]

Did you clean the edges of the joint as well? Are you manipulating the torch back and forth across the seam.

[prop-doctor]

alum needs filler.. start on one side add filler then work the joint
a bevel will help

[sixturbosix]

I always clean aluminum if I am jointing 2 pieces together.I also clean with Acetone sometimes.I am not sure if I still understand moving the torch from side to side.Can you elaborate on this a little more Lug.

[lugweld]

Tig welding is kind of like sewing. The tungsten is the needle. The arc is the thread. You stitch the metal from side to side. The force of the arc will work the two pieces together. You may need to add a drop of filler to coax it to do it as has been mentioned. There are different techniques, but this is what I use to get things flowing when I am using minimum amps.

[ed mac]

if your that good why do you have steal the 200 DX name from miller
i guess miller isnt that worried about you or they would have sued by now

[EVERLAST_SUPPORT]

Though off topic like the last post

For those interested the 200DX, 225LX and 250EX are to denote max amps and features. Like Deluxe, Limited, etc. It has been a marketing naming convention for years. Many industries do it. SX is one the auto people use, Sports.

[SRO1911]

Well I must add that the MILLER ABP/330 is the most kick a$$ welding machine I ever used!
Blows off all the Chi-Com's with ease...
Simple yet easy to use..
No fancy gadgets to go haywire at the wrong possible moment..
Set it and forget it feature is always nice..
460 amps of pure bliss...


...zap!
:eek::eek::eek:
Thems may be fahtin words...

I can't comment on that TIG voodoo - still need a machine to do it and a few thousand hours of practice but...
"""kick a$$ welding machine"""

My ol short hood lays a pretty fair bead... I'm just sayin.

sixturbosix:: Hickory seemed like a nice little place, stayed there a few weeks for a job on the lake righ off 1-30. Good luck on the TIGing, I'll be working on it myself soon I HOPE