How to use Flange wizard 'master marker' to layout saddles?

[feetfats]

http://www.oki-bering.com/PDFs/FNW%20Flange%20Wizard/mastermarker.pdf

This looks like a great tool but I cannot figure out how it can layout saddles.

Can anyone please explain this to me? I've watched the videos on flange wizards website.

Thanks

[drafterx]

here is a method I have used time and time again.:drinkup:

[feetfats]

here is a method I have used time and time again.:drinkup:


Now if I am saddling a small pipe to a big pipe will this work or will I need to change the depth multiplier?

If making an intersection under 50 degrees what happens to make this method no longer work? (I probably won't understand the answer but will try :) )

This instruction diagram is awesome. Did you draw this?

And thank you so much, finally something I can understand.

Have you used the master marker and is it as awesome as it looks? I have an old curve-o-mark and really hate using it. I also plan to use the mm as a way to cut pipes coming out of the ground 'level' instead of square. I often have to cut off an 18" pipe thats sticking up out of the ground and then join another on top and have the top one level. So I cut them both square and have to trim until it sits level and that is a time consuming pain. I hope this tool can solve that. There is also a spiral weld on some of these pipes that has to be ground down before using a pipe wrap and that should be solved with the mm's telescopic arm.

[drafterx]

Now if I am saddling a small pipe to a big pipe will this work or will I need to change the depth multiplier?

If making an intersection under 50 degrees what happens to make this method no longer work? (I probably won't understand the answer but will try :) )

This instruction diagram is awesome. Did you draw this?

And thank you so much, finally something I can understand.

Have you used the master marker and is it as awesome as it looks? I have an old curve-o-mark and really hate using it. I also plan to use the mm as a way to cut pipes coming out of the ground 'level' instead of square. I often have to cut off an 18" pipe thats sticking up out of the ground and then join another on top and have the top one level. So I cut them both square and have to trim until it sits level and that is a time consuming pain. I hope this tool can solve that. There is also a spiral weld on some of these pipes that has to be ground down before using a pipe wrap and that should be solved with the mm's telescopic arm.

Thanks FeetFats, yes I made this dwg for ya yesterday (should have been drawing something else:D). This is a trick i learned in the coal mines. Not sure who came up with it but works good and very fast.


First of all, yes you do have to change the saddle depth value depending on the two pipe sizes you are dealing with. The best way to determine saddle depth is to use a square or straight edge on the end section of the pipe you are saddlling onto. The length of the straight edge is the I.D. of the in coming pipe. Hold the straight edge on the end and measure how much is above (perpendicular) and that is saddle depth. For example: 4" dia std. wt on 6" dia pipe saddle, the saddle depth on the 4" is 11/16". When changing the intersection degree, set your marker to the desired angle for the "desired connection point" line in STEP #1 on that drawing only. Then follow the quadrant lines when offsetting saddle depth and multiplier. After you make a few you will get the feel for it. :drinkup:

[feetfats]

Thanks FeetFats, yes I made this dwg for ya yesterday (should have been drawing something else:D). This is a trick i learned in the coal mines. Not sure who came up with it but works good and very fast.


First of all, yes you do have to change the saddle depth value depending on the two pipe sizes you are dealing with.

I know about changing the saddle depth, I was just wondering about the 1.5x saddle depth.

Thank you for drawing this, you have really helped and it should be made a sticky or something.

[drafterx]

I know about changing the saddle depth, I was just wondering about the 1.5x saddle depth.

Thank you for drawing this, you have really helped and it should be made a sticky or something.

1.5 is constant.

[feetfats]

1.5 is constant.

Thank you so much. :drinkup:

[drafterx]

Merry Christmas :waving:

[feetfats]

my master marker showed up the other day. I haven't had a chance to try it out on some scrap pipe (or a real project) yet but it seems like an awesome, well made tool. Expensive but the quality seems to represent the price tag so far.

I hope to do a service on my welder and truck tomorrow and if time permits I'm gonna bust this puppy out and give it a wirl. I also will try out the instructions drafterx gave me, which seem awesome btw.

Oh BTW drafterx, if you happen to have any other awesome tidbits of layout wizardry laying around please share them, we could all benefit from that sort of stuff.

[oxygen454]

If you really want to get into detail for larger pipe, you can do a pipe cope stretch-out.

This website link has a similar idea on how we did ours in school for stretch-outs. Lots of coping info as well... HERE (http://www.globalsecurity.org/military/library/policy/navy/nrtc/14251_ch3.pdf)

[feetfats]

If you really want to get into detail for larger pipe, you can do a pipe cope stretch-out.

This website link has a similar idea on how we did ours in school for stretch-outs. Lots of coping info as well... HERE (http://www.globalsecurity.org/military/library/policy/navy/nrtc/14251_ch3.pdf)


Lot's of good info in there. Thanks a lot.

Do you know what book that is from?

[oxygen454]

Not to sure but I can help you with the process if need be. I should do a DIY for pipe cope layout lol.

[Robert82]

here is a method I have used time and time again.:drinkup:
just regged to say thanks, really helpful thread, I searched for.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Underwater Welding Schools (http://www.underwater-welding-schools.net/)

[heimbuckwelding]

i have not used that brand before but from the looks of it i would prefer the curv-o-mark brand

[NHMatt]

I have used http://metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi before and it works great. It can figure different size pipes at any angle. I even used it to cope a 6" pipe into an 8" at a sharp angle. My printer would only do letter size paper so I entered the pipe sizes in at 1/2 the size and then printed it out. I drew vertical lines every inch on the paper and then drew lines every 1/2" on larger paper. Then I measured how far up the vertical lines the cope line was and doubled it and plotted it on the larger paper. It took a little time but it worked perfectly. And the best part was, it was free. The pics are from the stand I made to support the bow of a Navy ship that was having holes cut into the side and had to have support. Sch. 80 8" vertical pipe and 6" sch 80 braces.

[forhire]

I have used http://metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi before and it works great.

Well isn't that slick! I just created a cut and exported it straight to g-code. :cool: Thanks for the link. Now I need to add a pipe cutting axis to my plasma table. :laugh:

[fortyonethirty]

Well isn't that slick! I just created a cut and exported it straight to g-code. :cool: Thanks for the link. Now I need to add a pipe cutting axis to my plasma table. :laugh:

So it created a code that you could put straight into mach3 to plot the pattern? You just put a marker in the machine and let it draw on a piece of paper? Or is it g-code to operate a rotary axis type tube cutter?

[forhire]

So it created a code that you could put straight into mach3 to plot the pattern? You just put a marker in the machine and let it draw on a piece of paper? Or is it g-code to operate a rotary axis type tube cutter?

Yeah! It creates g-code with the correct X,Y moves. I suppose I could tape a marker to the torch and "print" the flat pattern on the table. The rotary motion of a tube cutter is the Y axis also. My vendor sells a complete tube cutting solution that has a switch box to switch the Y axis servo from the table to the tube cutter servo. I'm thinking I might scrounge up another servo and build my own. ;)

[MainePiper]

There is a Lateral App for android that can output all sizes and a graph output for templates.

Pipe Fitter Calculator
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.pipe.fittings.kevin

Lateral Pipe Calculator
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.geomitry.trigonomitry

Mitered Pipe Calculator
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=pipe.calculator.miter

[jw3]

Number 1. Is Maine Piper a salesman for these apps? Num 2. Would using the curve o mark version be roughly the same as far as instructions go anyway