View Full Version : Cab mount repairs
markfuga
02-08-2011, 07:41 PM
This is a continuation of the overall repairs I'm doing to the truck found HERE (http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=47657)
The rear cab mounts were really bad, but not quite to the point of "falling through the frame" (real close though). I used a 3" hole saw to cut out the patches from 3/16" plate. Ideally a 3.5" would have been better but 3" was all I had. I welded the patches in before cutting out the 1.75" inner hole because I could more accurately align the centers using the small 1/4" hole left by the hole saw. The rubber mounts in the picture are from a "donor truck". The originals were badly beaten from the rusted out holes.
Robert Hall
02-08-2011, 08:16 PM
Looks good!
Takes me back to my 73 Toyota land cruiser. I bought it off the showroom floor for $3770 and drove it until I could see the road running by underneath me. :)
umahunter
02-08-2011, 08:37 PM
Looks good!
Takes me back to my 73 Toyota land cruiser. I bought it off the showroom floor for $3770 and drove it until I could see the road running by underneath me. :)
lol yabba daba doo !!!!
duaneb55
02-08-2011, 08:50 PM
Another nice save on the project. :drinkup:
Robert Hall
02-08-2011, 10:44 PM
lol yabba daba doo !!!!
Yeah, you get it. :)
1awert1
02-09-2011, 12:36 AM
Yea them TOY's really rot out, My 72 ran like a top but the frame was completely rotted in half, i couldn't open and close the front doors anymore, Had to put her down...
Robert Hall
02-09-2011, 12:59 AM
A sad day, I'm sure.
MoonRise
02-09-2011, 10:39 AM
Well, the cross rail sure had to get repaired for the cab mounts. :dizzy:
But you could (and should) have done a little better on your starts-n-stops on the weld.
See the marked up copy of your pic? The red shows a pretty big miss on overlapping the start-stop to ensure the weld goes all the way around. The orange shows much smaller 'misses' but still they are 'misses'.
Will it affect the structure of your repair? Most likely not. But it still could have been done at least a bit 'better'. :drinkup:
Also, you have a lap joint on your repair, right? The patch/repair plate is sitting on TOP of the cross rail?
If so, did you weld up the BOTTOM lap joint? Or are you going to seal that seam in some other way?
Because otherwise, you set up a trap point for corrosion between your repair and the cross rail. :dizzy:
markfuga
02-09-2011, 10:09 PM
I do appreciate the critiques :) The Patch does fully lay over the top, so no chance of falling through (except when the rust takes over again).
It's true, I do need to "backup" on my starts a little more before moving forward. I always feel like I'm building a "buldge" on the start of an overlap of the previous bead and hastily start going forward.
The underside is not accesible due to the cross frame construction so it will get "smeared" with seam sealer and paint.
mb_welder
02-10-2011, 04:24 AM
Honestly, for what it is, the weld is fine!
vBulletin® v3.8.7, Copyright ©2000-2013, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.