tapwelder
05-15-2006, 12:05 AM
Interesting this category has been installed, becaused I took these pictures on Monday for a previous thread on...rail layout.
I rarely draw rails out on table, anymore I usually build raw rails, then trim (wasteful but faster than drawing). However, this is an excellent method for somebody who hasn't done a much of railing. A lot of understanding comes from looking at a rail drawn out. You also can plan better spacing of pickets and post. Drawing also allows you to plan around obstacles. The only trimming on-site was (and usually is) the newell post at the bottom of the steps.
Hope the pictures are in order as:
The first should be the drawing on the table. I use a framing square to draw the steps. When taking measurement in the field a level should be used to get vertical and horizontal measurements. I only draw out the bottom of the rail. The bottom gives me placement of post and allows me to get correct easement length. The easment is the short horizontal run at the top of a rail. The easement is an important feature if you have other rail connecting to the step rail.
The second photo: The rail has been notched with a protable bandsaw (could be bent) to form easement. The rail is marked for trimming. I dont usually trim until I place the pickets into the rail. The bottom post will move (adjusted) in order to maintain proper spacing.
The third Photo: The rail is placed on the table between the fixed square border.
Forth photo: Easement is check for squareness against the first picket (baluster).
Fifth: pickets are place into rail. Spacers are 3-7/8 inches. Ring spacer work well because the are the same no matter how they are oriented. square spacers can get cocked and throw off spacing. Note: all pickets were cut to length and mitered at 30 degrees. I miter all picket at 30 degrees regardless of pitch, since they are welded all the way around. I used to lay channel together and mark them for picket spacing, hence the picket on straight railing would be farther apart than picket on step rails. Using spacers is easier.
Sixth: completed job, Oh well can't post six pictures.
Out of habit I usually set my post on the last step. I work for several contractors who place turns immediately at the bottom of the steps. Thus placing the post or handrail on the walk way creates a tripping hazard. From a codes perspective the handrail should should extend past the last step. I have never only failed inspection for this reason, however, be aware.
I stood on top of my table to takes these pictures. Wasn't tall enough to get the full rail in the picture.
Lotechman suggested using plywood to lay out rails. That is a great suggestion especially if you do not have table space. I have built bicycles on wood jigs before, it works. Jigs can be saved and reused.
I rarely draw rails out on table, anymore I usually build raw rails, then trim (wasteful but faster than drawing). However, this is an excellent method for somebody who hasn't done a much of railing. A lot of understanding comes from looking at a rail drawn out. You also can plan better spacing of pickets and post. Drawing also allows you to plan around obstacles. The only trimming on-site was (and usually is) the newell post at the bottom of the steps.
Hope the pictures are in order as:
The first should be the drawing on the table. I use a framing square to draw the steps. When taking measurement in the field a level should be used to get vertical and horizontal measurements. I only draw out the bottom of the rail. The bottom gives me placement of post and allows me to get correct easement length. The easment is the short horizontal run at the top of a rail. The easement is an important feature if you have other rail connecting to the step rail.
The second photo: The rail has been notched with a protable bandsaw (could be bent) to form easement. The rail is marked for trimming. I dont usually trim until I place the pickets into the rail. The bottom post will move (adjusted) in order to maintain proper spacing.
The third Photo: The rail is placed on the table between the fixed square border.
Forth photo: Easement is check for squareness against the first picket (baluster).
Fifth: pickets are place into rail. Spacers are 3-7/8 inches. Ring spacer work well because the are the same no matter how they are oriented. square spacers can get cocked and throw off spacing. Note: all pickets were cut to length and mitered at 30 degrees. I miter all picket at 30 degrees regardless of pitch, since they are welded all the way around. I used to lay channel together and mark them for picket spacing, hence the picket on straight railing would be farther apart than picket on step rails. Using spacers is easier.
Sixth: completed job, Oh well can't post six pictures.
Out of habit I usually set my post on the last step. I work for several contractors who place turns immediately at the bottom of the steps. Thus placing the post or handrail on the walk way creates a tripping hazard. From a codes perspective the handrail should should extend past the last step. I have never only failed inspection for this reason, however, be aware.
I stood on top of my table to takes these pictures. Wasn't tall enough to get the full rail in the picture.
Lotechman suggested using plywood to lay out rails. That is a great suggestion especially if you do not have table space. I have built bicycles on wood jigs before, it works. Jigs can be saved and reused.