View Full Version : Lincoln 175
Big muddy
06-18-2006, 03:49 PM
I just bought a new Lincoln 175 and bought an 80 cuft gas bottle of CO2/Argon and wondered what the gas regulator should be set too? I have been using and older Miller 110v unit with flux core, so I am not really new to welding but to new to welding with gas. I am primarily a hobbyist using this for patch panels for vehicles etc.
I apologize if this is in the wrong forum.
Thanks Ben
MAC702
06-18-2006, 04:09 PM
Between 15 and 20 CFH should be fine. If you are in a perfectly windless environment, you can sometimes get away with as little as 10-12 CFH, but it's better to use a little more to make sure no stray gust causes porosity by blowing away the shielding.
Make sure you set the FLOW while the gas is flowing, just turn the wire speed all the way down so you don't waste wire. Ignore the static reading, which will usually be a little higher. Screwing IN increases the flow, screwing the regulator OUT will decrease the flow.
Don't forget you will weld at a different polarity now. DCEP for GMAW.
Did you get the SP-175T (taps) or the SP-175+ (infinitely-variable voltage)?
ctardi
06-18-2006, 04:30 PM
What he said. :D
Big muddy
06-18-2006, 07:54 PM
I got the 175 Pro Mig, bought it at Lowes. Paid 550. including tax, included the regulator and hose and some wire 0.30 size. It is not infinitely adjustable, I beleive it has five settings for heat and 10 for wire speed,
Thanks
Ben
RC-Racer
06-18-2006, 08:01 PM
Big muddy,
I also have the Pro Mig 175. It is the SP175T ( tapped ) version. Lincoln provides retail packaging for Home Depot, Lowes etc.
MAC702
06-18-2006, 08:54 PM
I beleive it has five settings for heat and 10 for wire speed,
It's a good unit. Keep in mind that your wire speed is NOT tapped, though. You can set it anywhere in between the numbers. In fact, this is the control you will adjust the most anyway, so feel free to kick it around, even it just by a little. Its numbers are just to give you a relative scale for repeatability.
Big muddy
06-18-2006, 09:12 PM
Thanks RC, how do you like it? Had any trouble with it overall?
thanks ben
Big muddy
06-18-2006, 09:13 PM
By the way, what does tapped mean?
Ben
Big muddy
06-18-2006, 09:14 PM
Whoops sorry for the redundant post!
Ben
LuzRD
06-18-2006, 10:54 PM
"tapped" means that there are only a few settings (5 as you said) on the dial.
your amp dial should click into those certain positions (taps), but your wire speed dial can be set anywhere. even between the marked settings, this is infinately variable (infinately adjustable)
MAC702
06-19-2006, 12:28 AM
They are called taps because the transformer has different places (taps) where you can draw out the power. Each place has a different number of wraps around the core, so will have a different turns ratio and therefore a different voltage. This is why you CANNOT change the voltage setting while welding; it will arc across the switch and be very bad.
The infinitely variable models used to be large rheostats, but are pretty much just an electronic control with a relayed potentiometer now These (both) CAN be changed while under load (welding.)
RC-Racer
06-19-2006, 09:08 AM
Thanks RC, how do you like it? Had any trouble with it overall?
thanks ben
I've been using mine for over a year and it has done everything I have asked of it. The first project was done with flux core but after getting a C-25 tank and solid wire, I have never gone back. Unless your working outdoors in the wind or you want to push it limits on heavier stock, it's MUCH nicer working with gas and solid wire.
The door chart recommendations are a bit hot but a good starting point. Sometimes, I find that I can go down 1 tap and run a higher wire speed to get better results.
The only thing that bothers me is the VERY light trigger on the gun but other than that, it's been great.
gnm109
06-20-2006, 10:37 PM
I have the Lincoln SP175 plus and it's a great machine. The tapped ones are OK, too. I seldom move the power settings very far and I tend to move them a full number when I do.
For a different welding experiance, try come straight CO2. I use it and really like it. Good penetration, a little more spatter but, all in all, very nice. It's inexpensive too. A 20 lb bottle of liquified CO2 is the same capacity as an 160 cu ft. gas cylinder at about 1/2 the cost.
I've tried Lincoln .023 solid wire as well as Forney and also Radnor (Air Gas's private brand ) and it seems that the Lincoln wire runs nicer. I'm going to stick to Lincoln since both Home Depot and Lowes sell it in 2# and 10# rolls.
Good luck with your new welder. :)
Rollman
07-12-2006, 06:34 PM
I have the Lincoln SP175 plus and it's a great machine. The tapped ones are OK, too. I seldom move the power settings very far and I tend to move them a full number when I do.
For a different welding experiance, try come straight CO2. I use it and really like it. Good penetration, a little more spatter but, all in all, very nice. It's inexpensive too. A 20 lb bottle of liquified CO2 is the same capacity as an 160 cu ft. gas cylinder at about 1/2 the cost.
I've tried Lincoln .023 solid wire as well as Forney and also Radnor (Air Gas's private brand ) and it seems that the Lincoln wire runs nicer. I'm going to stick to Lincoln since both Home Depot and Lowes sell it in 2# and 10# rolls.
Good luck with your new welder. :)
Is the 175 Plus worth the extra $200+ dollars ? Locally I can pick up the Plus for $886 . When the 175 HD can be had for $599 or even less on Ebay .
LuzRD
07-12-2006, 10:53 PM
rollman thats a a matter of personal preference.
i personally went with the tapped vs. when i bought my Lincoln, but i like things with lots of adjustments.
its definately not a must have, but when it comes in handy, it comes in handy!
if you find a good deal (good deal including shipping of course) on a tapped vs. on ebay get it and chances are youll be happy with it. if your not happy you can always sell it, and have a small difference to pay for the tapped vs.
gnm109
07-17-2006, 09:22 AM
Is the 175 Plus worth the extra $200+ dollars ? Locally I can pick up the Plus for $886 . When the 175 HD can be had for $599 or even less on Ebay .
I personally prefer the variable power machine but it's personal preference. As to price, the sellers on eBay often sell the SP175 plus for $750 and will include free shipping....also in most cases. no tax....heh heh.
I got used to the variable power on my big Lincoln 250/250 TIG Stick but the tappers will work also.
The regulator that comes wiith the Lincoln and most other brand package deals is less than appealing...it's just a gauge. I prefer a ball type regulator flowmeter unit with different scales for Argon, CO2, Argon-CO2 mix, etc. I got one on eBay for $15 plus shipping!
I also prefer CO2 for mild steel, especially since I only weld for my own projects. It gives great penetration, a nice clean weld (I think it's clean anyway...) and the spatter can be controlled with spray. What's not to like?
Good luck.
Doolittle
10-17-2006, 10:56 PM
Can you get good penetration with co2/argon 70/25 mix with the 175 plus?
MAC702
10-18-2006, 12:49 AM
Can you get good penetration with co2/argon 70/25 mix with the 175 plus?
Yes and no. What are you welding?
Rick V
10-18-2006, 12:43 PM
RC-Racer:The only thing that bothers me is the VERY light trigger on the gun but other than that, it's been great.
Me too! Got tired of watching wire and hearing gas spew forth after I lay the gun down.
I took the gun apart (twist lock caps at either end) and s-t-r-e-c-h-e-d .... o-u-t the spring that lives under the red trigger. After I put it back together, it was definitely better. The operation takes only 15 minutes - even if you don't know what you are getting into. Highly recommended modification.
Rick V
gnm109
10-18-2006, 09:35 PM
Here is my answer to the light trigger and wasting wire when you accidentally activate the trigger by setting the handle in your lap. I made a trigger guard. This one is mild steel, brazed together. I bead-blasted it and soaked it in phosphoric acid so it wouldn't rust. I didn't change the spring. It sure works nice!
Rick V
10-19-2006, 08:36 AM
gnm109:Here is my answer to the light trigger and wasting wire
gnm109 that 'Loop Trigger Guard' looks a good idea!
Question - have you experienced any difficulty getting your gloved fingers into or out of the guard hoop? (Thinking winter - lined welding gloves.)
Has the guard ever created other difficulties like restricting access of the gun in tight quarters, getting hung up in what you were welding, catching on the welding table, etc. or at anytime been a pain in the butt such that you had to remove it?
Rick V
gnm109
10-19-2006, 12:34 PM
gnm109 that 'Loop Trigger Guard' looks a good idea!
Question - have you experienced any difficulty getting your gloved fingers into or out of the guard hoop? (Thinking winter - lined welding gloves.)
Has the guard ever created other difficulties like restricting access of the gun in tight quarters, getting hung up in what you were welding, catching on the welding table, etc. or at anytime been a pain in the butt such that you had to remove it?
Rick V
No problems so far. As you see in the picture, there is plenty of room for regular welding gloves which I wear all the time. I haven't done many welds other than on the bench so it's possible that it could interfere in certain out of position situations but if it did, it comes off wirh a 3/8" wrench in 10 seconds.
I really got annoyed when I first got my 175 plus at it's nasty habit of running wire whenever or wherever you set the thing down. I realy wonder why they couldn't have put the trigger on top of the torch unit? Oh well.
You could make one of these units in about an hour. I first turned a ring on my lathe but you could also use a piece of pipe. The boss on top was brazed on first and then split. It's threaded on one side for a 10-32 screw.
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