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Dman033189
02-23-2004, 09:49 PM
Hi I'm new to this and just started welding I have an arc welder. I was wondering if anybody had any tips of how to practice.

Jim314
02-23-2004, 11:00 PM
Dman, Lincoln Electric sells a book called "ARC Welding Instructions for the Beginner". If you can't take a class, like I couldn't, this is the next best thing. I read all I could before starting and this was the best I found. It will take you through step by step what you need to learn with very good illustrations.

Franz
02-23-2004, 11:20 PM
We'll need a little more information on the machine you have before we can make any recommendations.
You can get some good information on basic stick welding here
http://www.hobartwelders.com/techtips.html
Once you get the basics down, the rest is just a matter of practice.

Dman033189
02-24-2004, 09:12 AM
ok thanks for the help and it is a craftsman 30-250 amp AC/DC arc welder

Franz
02-24-2004, 01:18 PM
With that machine, I'd set it around 120 amps AC and get myself about 10# of 1/8 6013, and learn to lay some nice passes on a piece of steel about 4" square.
Once you've learned to do it well with the steel laying flat, turn the steel verticle and repeat the process.
After that, repeat the process with the steel overhead.
Then turn the machine to DC and repeat.

Dman033189
02-24-2004, 01:28 PM
ok thanks I will try that

Markopolo
03-03-2004, 11:29 PM
And don't forget horizontal !......welding on a vertical plate side-ways ! I agree %100 with Franz......start with a.c.
I did, and i'm happy i did ! And the only thing I would add is:
try 6011 also.......electrodes come in many different specifications.
6010 & 6011 are known as "deep-penetration" electrodes.....they have a pretty concentrated arc. 6013 & 7014 have a little softer arc, and fill better. In my opinion, i wouldn't fart around with 7018 until you learn the basics. 7018 is a great electrode, BUT...you've got to understand "how" to run it, because the slag runs more than with other rods.

Sberry
03-04-2004, 12:30 AM
Flat may work when you are self teaching but when I am teaching one on one I teach 6010 vert first. They seem to grab on fast about what gives control.

revpol
03-04-2004, 02:31 AM
Try some 5p+ (6010+) starts the same as 6010 (easy) you don't have to ocilate. Run it just like you would 7018. Once you can run your beads in the diff. positions then learn how to osilate( or whip) all with the same rod Revpol

Sberry
03-04-2004, 10:12 AM
Rev,, where in Mi? 6010 is run whip and pause in all positions all the time. Nothing similar to 7018. You would have a mess trying to run it out of position drag and even a mess flat. Dman, get someone that knows how to show you. You could practice till you were in retirement and still never get it. My mechanic has done some welding and I looked at a couple pieces he did and they didnt look too bad, but he did them all flat. I give him a 6010 lesson,,, his comment was, "I wish someone had shown me that 20 yrs ago".

Dman033189
03-04-2004, 11:21 AM
ok thanks I know a guy that has a tree service that does alot of welding and I am showing him my pieces and he tells me what to do differently.

BillC
03-04-2004, 09:16 PM
Sberry,

Do you really run 6010 as a whipping rod in all positions? We learned to run vertical 6010 weaving but with no whipping. Do you run your 6010 verticals as stringers or with a weave? In practice I have run 6010 without whipping or weaving flat and horizontal and made great welds. Now you've got me wondering what is the concern?

Thanks!
Bill

Markopolo
03-04-2004, 09:35 PM
Sberry...I'm afraid I beg to differ from you.....I run 6010 (and 6011) in tight, little circles, or a little side to side. Whipping does great to fill bad fit-up, but I don't think it's necessary all the time !

sutto
03-04-2004, 10:24 PM
Correct me if I am wrong, but isent 6010 a "downhill rod"? I know sometimes folks might step a root pass uphill, but normally it is ran downhill......Also, It and 7018 are as different as night and day to run. You cannot "drag" a 6010 like you can drag a 7018.

Markopolo
03-04-2004, 10:36 PM
I don't think you should "Drag" ANY rod....6010 & 6011 work good down because of the light slag.....7018 is run up so the slag doesn't run down into the puddle and get buried....(but that's just MY opinion) :)

revpol
03-05-2004, 01:24 AM
sberry: 6010+ 5P+ Linc. rod Just ask your welding supply place for 5Pplus. They should know what you're talking about. Instead of being red rod like reg. 5p it will be a gray color. You can whip this rod just like 5p or weld withit as you would 7018. It still sounds like 5p and has all the dig of reg. 5p, splatter to. Starting to use this as the 5p rod of preferance in the field. Try some it really is just like the old wonder rod with less techniqe involved. I live N. of Port Huron In Fort Gratiot. A boilermaker for close to 30yrs. as a tube welder. Also teach welding T.I.G., stick,mig. & orbital Revpol

james
03-07-2004, 09:32 PM
franz... your right...the 60 series rod does create some contraversy.. my .02 cents 5p+.or..6011 liquid air nice soft arc ..dman when you try overhead dont forget the ear plugs and thier not for the noise good luck
jim

JohnMcQuistion
03-07-2004, 10:48 PM
6010 is an all position rod. The 60 stands for tensil strength. The 1 stands for the position. And the 0 stands for the chemical make up of the flux of that rod. So according to AWS 7018 is an all position rod also. There is a down hill procedure for 7018 but it is not used much in industrial constrution.

james
03-07-2004, 11:00 PM
7018 down i knew there had to be an easier way ...wheres marko
jim

axehind
03-07-2004, 11:06 PM
Originally posted by Dman033189
Hi I'm new to this and just started welding I have an arc welder. I was wondering if anybody had any tips of how to practice.

I practice by cutting slices into some steel pieces with my saw and then I weld it. I also cut slices with my O/A outfit (more practice) and do the same thing. The pieces I use are usually 1/8 - 1/4 inch thick and around 6 inches wide by 24 inches long. I cut slices every few inches.

axehind

Franz
03-07-2004, 11:11 PM
Comon James, earplugs? you haven't begun to learn welding till you've listened to the wax incinerate out of your ears a few times, prefferably under a vehicle so you can't do a damn thing other than listen.
Marko would know what the cadaver in the creamatory hears then.
What other process has all these benefits?

Markopolo
03-07-2004, 11:40 PM
Franz....there's a little difference in heat..........My crematory
run's at 2000 degrees f. 1,600,000 b.t.u. (that's one million, six hunderd thousand). I suspect there's quite a bit the corpse
hears in there :eek:

Markopolo
03-07-2004, 11:51 PM
John McQ....What is the downhill procdure for 7018 ?

I've tried & tried.....and the damn flux just runs down right into my puddle. :angry:

Franz
03-08-2004, 12:53 AM
OK you Florida guys, we now know the location of the BIG heat treat oven at Marko's place.

Markopolo
03-08-2004, 01:28 AM
Franz......you call it the "Big" heat-treat oven......

True for you...it's big, but I think a more correct term would be
the "FINAL" heat-treat :D

JohnMcQuistion
03-08-2004, 06:38 AM
Marko... The trick to running 7018 downhill is to crack up the heat about 20 points hotter than normal, kinda long arc the rod, and when the slag begins to overcome the puddle flick it out of the way with the rod while maintaining the arc. Its not a very good procedure and not used by most cont. companies.

YJMike
03-08-2004, 08:56 AM
[/B][/QUOTE] I've tried & tried.....and the damn flux just runs down right into my puddle. :angry: [/B][/QUOTE]


In verticle is what your talking about here I assume? With 7018 work your way up from the bottom of your weld with a side to side zig zag and also pause for like 1 sec on each side. This is how my instructor taught us anyway.

Sberry
03-08-2004, 09:39 AM
I run lo hi downhill all the time, especially in the field where the fitup may be poor especially where it just needs a seal weld. (actually I should say I did,,, its cold out there and I aint goin outside)

Markopolo
03-08-2004, 09:53 AM
Well...I know it can be done...I guess pipeliners do it all the time.
It's just that everytime I tried, the slag just flows right down into the puddle and screws me up.

MAC702
03-08-2004, 02:55 PM
Originally posted by Markopolo
I don't think you should "Drag" ANY rod....

A lot of people consider it a boring rod or whatever, but let's not ignore rods like 7024. They have their place. If I can get a piece into a flat position and have some long beads to run, I always consider 7024. And all you got to do it drag it. Not for every job, but well worth having in the arsenal.

james
03-08-2004, 06:14 PM
marko...i dont think think anyone would weld pipe with standard 7018 down ....yes there is a xx18 that was developed for down procedure ... aparently used on some 48 inch up my way,, dont know if it was used for cover pass only...any way these folks seem to offer the product www.btwcan.com .. good reading let us know what you think...
jim

Markopolo
03-08-2004, 06:30 PM
Thanks James.......Wish more of these welding supply sites had on-line stores :(