Hypertherm PAC120 Torch Lead Question

[Welding_Swede]

Looks like I have an intermittent short in my torch lead harness right where it enters the torch handle. If I bend or kink the cable just right at this location the power supply will trip and shut the unit down.

So, I figure I can just disconnect the torch and cut about a foot or so off the lead and re-wire everything with no problem except...

the power lead/air line has a compression type screw fitting (similar to a TIG torch?) that will need to be replaced if I cut the cable back. My question is what is the model/type (NPT #?) that I will need to source to effect this repair?

Yes, I could just buy a new 25' lead and be done with it but I'm cheap and figure I can easily fix this problem if I can find the correct crimp-on fitting to terminate the power/air line.

The PAC unit in question is the Max42 in case that matters.

One other option I have not considered is that I could carefully cut the jacket of the main torch cable from the torch end back to the trouble spot and see if a simple re-solder/heat shrink repair will suffice. I could then heat shrink over the cut jacket area right up to the inside of the torch.

Any ideas Jim?

Thanks.

Eric

[Welding_Swede]

After a little thinking about the problem I decided to check the continuity of the wires in the cable assy. to determine what exactly was causing the condition.

Found an intermittent open in one of the green wires that connect to the "parts in place" microswitch. Since I jumped this switch out of the circuit in the torch handle I've decided to just move my jumper to the Amphenol connector that connects to the Max42 front panel. This will keep me from having to either shorten the torch cable or open the jacket to repair the wire.

Some may consider this a dangerous practice to disable the safety switch but I figure if I get shocked by changing the consumables while the unit is powered up and plugged in then I probably deserve it.

Short version: Problem solved.

Eric

[Thiel-Metal-Fab]

After a little thinking about the problem I decided to check the continuity of the wires in the cable assy. to determine what exactly was causing the condition.

Found an intermittent open in one of the green wires that connect to the "parts in place" microswitch. Since I jumped this switch out of the circuit in the torch handle I've decided to just move my jumper to the Amphenol connector that connects to the Max42 front panel. This will keep me from having to either shorten the torch cable or open the jacket to repair the wire.

Some may consider this a dangerous practice to disable the safety switch but I figure if I get shocked by changing the consumables while the unit is powered up and plugged in then I probably deserve it.

Short version: Problem solved.

Eric



THATS A REALLY REALLY BAD IDEA , UR GONNA DIE NOW FROM SPARK JOLT JUMPER DOWN ARC HOLD SYNDROME .... I WARNED U :nono::laugh:

[Welding_Swede]

"SPARK JOLT JUMPER DOWN ARC HOLD SYNDROME"

Wow! That's a new for me. Could you expand on the definition of SJJDAHS for me? I'm just not all that familiar with technical jargon.

Thanks.

Eric

P.S. Someone just told me that we're all going to die... sooner or later. There's worse ways to go I'm sure.

[jimcolt]

Sounds like something developed by a lawyer....a new syndrome for the ambulance chasers.

[ccawgc]

Sometimes you can move the switch in a touch and they will start work right. Depending on how much the piston / torch head or switch button are worn.