My Commander, no output!

[Stick-man]

I bought this at the begining of the year. Haven't used it hardly at all. It sat at the LWS multiple years, outdoors, before I got it. Last week did a small job about an hour away, worked awesome and I used the remote for the second time. First time was just to make sure it worked. Only thing I noticed was that for no reason it would go on high idle. It did this twice and I went over and moved the idle switch to high and back to auto, and it kicked down both times. Today I went to use it and no arc. I was in a hurry to get ready for hunting tomorrow, so I didn't check for voltage. But I did flip the remote switch back and forth. Checked that the "terminals" switch was "always on". Then plugged in the remote, nothing.:cry:

Any ideas on what to check before I call Lincoln? I won't be able to work on it until probably monday after work. So if you guys can give me any ideas, I will try, and let you know Monday night. Thanks.

[aevald]

Hello stickman, Keep in mind that I don't have experience with the Lincoln Commander machine and take my suggestions for what they're worth. I am pretty sure that your machine likely has slip-rings and brushes. This is the first place that I would start. Many outfits that deal with welding machine repair or generator repair will have "stones" that are made to recondition the slip-rings or the armature/commutator, whatever is used in that particular machine. It is recommended that you DO NOT just simply grab any sort of sand paper or other type of abrasive to do this. These "stones" utilize sticks that have abrasive stones attached to the ends of them and are designed to clean and resurface the contact surfaces that the brushes ride on. While you are cleaning the surfaces check the brushes for whether or not they are sticking or are free. They have to be able to make proper contact in order for your machine to be able to do anything at all. Providing that you find all things in order with the brushes and slip-rings/armature/commutator however you care to describe it. You still may not have output at this point. I can only speak for Miller machines from here on and possibly not the more modern ones. On my Miller there are two variable resistors that have movable, lockable rings to set the resistance values for a certain set of functions that are required by the machine to provide welding output and auxiliary power. By carefully noting their position before attempting to clean and reattach them you can possibly get your machine to work again relatively easily. I was able to remove them on my machine, clean the surfaces where the two parts contacted themselves and once I restored a good connection the machine welded and generated power just fine. Your Lincoln might or might not have a similar type of design. By taking a careful look at the internals and taking note of possible corrosion issues that you could clean relatively easily you might be able to fix the machine on your own without consulting with a technician or needing to take it in for sometimes costly service. Good luck and best regards, Allan

[tbone550]

Dear Mr. Stick-Man,

I will speak to you from experience, my very best teacher.

First, hook up your work clamp to the piece you're welding to. You may hope that the dirt where your ground clamp is lying will conduct electricity just a few feet over to what you're welding on, but in my experience this never happens, even after repeated dirty looks at the disconnected clamp from deep inside whatever structure you're working on.

Second, you should also always start the engine on your welder. You may prefer the silence and improved fuel consumption of a non-running engine, but I've found that it doesn't weld very well at all like that. Practice nonchalantly climbing out of whatever you're working on, starting the welder, and contorting yourself back into position so that to a bystander, it looks like you meant not to start your machine until now.

Finally, when you do get it to strike an arc, be sure you're wearing your welding shield and not your clear grinding shield. It may be easier to see the arc without that heavy, dark shield on, but in the end it just isn't worth it.

Sincerely,

Mr. T-Bone

:jester::jester::jester::jester::jester::jester:

[Stick-man]

:laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh::laugh: Oh tbone, you're a real comedian!........ Bang Zoom!

I called Lincoln, because I'm worried sick, and they asked if I had auxiliary output, and I do. So they said that rules out brushes. But, they did tell me to pull off the front panel and check for any loose wires. He told me that because the three cylinder Deutz & Perkins vibrated so bad at idle, they don't use them anymore. So keep your fingers crossed. I will try more monday. Right now I have to get ready for hunting tomorrow!!! Thanks

PS - tbone, you're covering this repair bill. It ran fine before you "borrowed" it, (and I use that term VERY loosely)! Next time I will tell the sheriff the truth!:mad::D

[rhunt]

Hey, you guys are great!! Bob