Lincoln SP135 Plus Questions?

[Rodeo73]

Hi,

I was looking at purchasing my first welder for use at home and was interested in the SP135 plus. The question I have is this: I see it comes all set up to weld with solid wire and gas. The website says it can do flux core welding, which I have experience in the past. But what is needed to change from solid wire to flux core wire and vic-versa?

I'm thinking .35 flux core would need a new tip and the wire, but do I need to change the sheild cable and drive roller?

I am looking for something I can convert back and forth from solid to flux when I need to. I like the option of variable voltage and that changed my mind from buying the 3200HD here in town.

Any info would be helpful.

[imagineer]

You will need a new electrode tip for the thinner wire. The .035 tip will work with thinner wire, but it will let the wire wander a bit.

You can get by without changing the liner.

Your drive roller should have two grooves, one for flux and one for mig. You'll simply have to loosen the roller and turn it so the thinner groove is lined up with the wire.

You will also have to reverse the polarity leads for the gun and ground. MIG uses the opposite polarity than Flux.

[MAC702]

Chances are the drive roll will have .023" on one side and a dual-purpose .030/.035" on the other side. That one will work for both solid and cored wires.

GMAW will use DCEP polarity, FCAW will use DCEN; it usually takes a hand tool to swap some leads inside the wire spool compartment.

You'll save money in the long run and really enjoy the clean welding if you can get the shielding gas.

For this class of machine, there is really little advantage to the variable voltage over the tapped voltage, but if you have the budget, variable is nice at times. I'd rather spend the extra money and go higher in capacity, instead of the limitations of a 120V unit.

[TEK]

Hi,


I'm thinking .35 flux core would need a new tip

Any info would be helpful.


Um, maybe more than a tip:laugh:

[Rodeo73]

I like the ability of being somewhat portable by using 120v. I looked at the SP135T and then the SP135 Plus. I just thought the plus option of variable voltage would come in handy one day.

I was borrowing a friends wire feed welder that was using flux core but also have a gas hook up. So I thought I would try to get my own setup. I was welding some on thicker than sheet metal and the flux core seems to work nice.

I am mainly interested in the flux core welding at this moment, but wanted the option to go with gas when I felt like upgrading my welding ability.

I have been reading the documents on the 135T & 135 Plus on the lincoln website but something still puzzles me. It says they can do .35 flux core by changing the drive roller (flipping it) and the tip along with loading the wire.

BUT... they also list a flux core intershielding kit and a knurled drive roller for flux. If anyone has one of these, could they tell me if these extra kits are needed to do flux core?

Thanks.

[ZTFab]

Hey Rodeo,

I have an SP125plus, SP135plus and an SP175T. You don't need anything but the flux wire and the contact tip to match. I take my SP125 in our chase truck for off-road racing with .035" flux and it works great.

Simply run the drive roll on the .035" side, install the .035" contact tip, switch the polarity of the welder(easy with the wing nuts that lincoln installs for fast change-over) and burn some metal.

- Paul

[ZTFab]

...and as a side note, the variable voltage of the "plus" machines is a very nice feature. The ability to fine tune the welder to your material and hand speed is great.

I just wish my 175 and both of my PowerMig 200's had it!!

- Paul

[Rodeo73]

ZTFab,

Thanks for the replies. I think you answered all my questions nicely. I think I am going to definately buy a SP135 Plus, soon as I find a nice deal on one. I wasn't sure what I had to do to get it setup for flux-core right from the get go. Now I think I have the general idea on what I need to do and I could jump right in and start welding and then deal with getting a tank, etc when I am ready for the next step.

Thanks all for all the info and I have been reading LOTS of posts on lincoln welders. This forum ROCKS!

Rodeo73

[ZTFab]

Rodeo73...glad to help.:)

Good luck with your welder, when you get it, and let us know if you have anymore questions.

- Paul

[caldwellcpl]

Rodeo,

I've had my 135 plus for 10 months now and love it. I was going to save the $$$ and not go the plus route. Called a friend who teaches VoTech welding. They have both machines. He says his students fight to get on the plus -- just allows better control. I use mine for art work -- lots of thin sheet metal -- sometimes of varying gauges. I usually have spent a lot of time plasma cutting the pieces prior to assembly. I always take some scraps out and fine tune the power and wire speed. I only have one chance to make a good weld because I can't always get in there with a grinder or I get really ticked off if I burn a hole.

Switching from solid to flux takes about 5 minues or less -- need a philips screw driver to turn the roller over, maybe pliers if you twisted the wing nuts on tight when you change polarity. Biggest hassle is when you let go of the end of the wire before you have it threaded and get birds nest:mad:

For light welding you'll love it. For the heavy stuff I use a stick welder. Can't say enough about going with solid core and gas -- hate that chipping away in those tiny spaces.

Bob

[Rodeo73]

Thanks for the opinion! I had been looking at the 135T and 135 Plus and kept seeing some people say plus isn't worth it. But others say it is. Glad to have you give me some input on that. I am definately going to get me a SP135 Plus. I'm just looking around for the best deal at the moment.

Thanks everyone!

[gnm109]

Since the local Home Depot's and Lowes only sell the tapper machines, I looked at eBay and picked the seller that had the best price, no tax and free shipping for an SP175 plus. I didn't buy it online, though, I jsut called them and bought it personally. I got the same price as Ebay.

I saved about $200 over buying from one of the local welding equipment dealers. I don't feel bad though 'cause they nick me every time I buy gas. They'll make it back in a while.

By the way, I like straight C02 for the home and hobby work that I do. I think it will be OK since I don't typically X-ray my welds and I haven't got a contract to build any bridges lately.

:)

[caldwellcpl]

Rodeo,

I sort of did what GNM109 did, looked on the web for both the 135 Plus and a medium sized tank. I could get a great price on the web with no shipping for the welder and I think I had to pay shipping on the tank price. Printed off both pages from web and took to my local Norco dealer. Told him I'd like to see what he could do. His response was that he couldn't match the price on the welder -- just too low. BUT, he ran some figures and I walked out with the welder, bottle (purchased and the same size) and it was filled with Argon/CO2 -- the price, even after paying State tax was $8.00 CHEAPER than I could get on the web and the web deal would have been an empty bottle. With the gas included, I figure I got about a $40-50 better deal.

I asked him how or why he could do/did this? He asked me if I was pleased with the deal and if I felt he had treated me fair. I said yes. He then said that he hoped that I'd buy my gas and materials (wire) from him in the future and that because he'd sold me the welder, he'd be happy to give me good service if I had problems or questions he'd be happy to help. He also said he'd give me a break on my other parts when he could.

I later bought a small used plasma cutter (hypertherm 190) off the ebay, but he's earned my business for all those consumables too and I do get what he refers to as a "preferred" customer break on most stuff and has answered and done some trouble shooting about my plasma questions.

I went in that day really not expecting to go home with a set-up to weld in an hour -- but glad I did. I'm not a rabid "buy local, support your community" type person -- heck I shop at Walmart and all the other large chain stores, but in my case it was at least worth the time to ask.

Bob B

[gnm109]

Rodeo,

I sort of did what GNM109 did, looked on the web for both the 135 Plus and a medium sized tank. I could get a great price on the web with no shipping for the welder and I think I had to pay shipping on the tank price. Printed off both pages from web and took to my local Norco dealer. Told him I'd like to see what he could do. His response was that he couldn't match the price on the welder -- just too low. BUT, he ran some figures and I walked out with the welder, bottle (purchased and the same size) and it was filled with Argon/CO2 -- the price, even after paying State tax was $8.00 CHEAPER than I could get on the web and the web deal would have been an empty bottle. With the gas included, I figure I got about a $40-50 better deal.

I asked him how or why he could do/did this? He asked me if I was pleased with the deal and if I felt he had treated me fair. I said yes. He then said that he hoped that I'd buy my gas and materials (wire) from him in the future and that because he'd sold me the welder, he'd be happy to give me good service if I had problems or questions he'd be happy to help. He also said he'd give me a break on my other parts when he could.

I later bought a small used plasma cutter (hypertherm 190) off the ebay, but he's earned my business for all those consumables too and I do get what he refers to as a "preferred" customer break on most stuff and has answered and done some trouble shooting about my plasma questions.

I went in that day really not expecting to go home with a set-up to weld in an hour -- but glad I did. I'm not a rabid "buy local, support your community" type person -- heck I shop at Walmart and all the other large chain stores, but in my case it was at least worth the time to ask.

Bob B

You got a good dealer there! I tried somewhat the same approach and three local dealers wouldn't come down on the price even a dollar. They still get my gas business but they didn't sell me a welding machine.

[caldwellcpl]

You got a good dealer there! I tried somewhat the same approach and three local dealers wouldn't come down on the price even a dollar. They still get my gas business but they didn't sell me a welding machine.

Yeah, I was pretty pleased -- it actually surprised the heck out of me. But he also gained a pretty loyal customer. Lots of the stuff I could use are cheaper at the local "big box" stores like Home Depot -- but the Norco guy also answers questions and the folks at HD don't have a clue.

Bob

[tjb]

I had one of those SP135+ until I upgraded. I liked it a lot. I also got their flux core tip that covers the gas diffuser when using flux core. It keeps the diffuser clean AND it allows GREAT visiblilty of the weld. Those machines have a reputation of disappointing performance if you don't feed them all the amps that they need. I think 20A is the minimum but it really thrives on a 30 amp supply. The only way I can give it 30A 120VAC is from one leg of the 240V plug from an engine driven welder.

Good luck

[rain252]

The only way I can give it 30A 120VAC is from one leg of the 240V plug from an engine driven welder

If you have a sub-panel or main panel nearby enough (and space available in it), just install a 30-amp breaker and #10 gauge wire to a 120 volt receptacle and you'll have your 30 amp supply. Clamp ring-type terminals on the #10 wires to make it easy to land them under the receptacle screws. A normal 15 or 20 amp, 120 volt receptacle will handle 30 amps with no problem. You could put a NEMA 5-30R receptacle on the circuit, but its not real common and you'd have to change your plug on the welder too, and only be able to plug in there......bottom line is a standard 120 volt recep. (5-15R or 5-20R) would be fine. You wouldn't want to do this with a continuous load of 30 amps, but with a welder's duty cycle limitations, it is fine. By staying with the standard 5-15P plug on the welder, you maintain the portability that is nice with a 120 volt welder.

Maybe MAC will comment on this.

[MAC702]

If you have a sub-panel or main panel nearby enough (and space available in it), just install a 30-amp breaker and #10 gauge wire to a 120 volt receptacle and you'll have your 30 amp supply. Clamp ring-type terminals on the #10 wires to make it easy to land them under the receptacle screws. A normal 15 or 20 amp, 120 volt receptacle will handle 30 amps with no problem. You could put a NEMA 5-30R receptacle on the circuit, but its not real common and you'd have to change your plug on the welder too, and only be able to plug in there......bottom line is a standard 120 volt recep. (5-15R or 5-20R) would be fine. You wouldn't want to do this with a continuous load of 30 amps, but with a welder's duty cycle limitations, it is fine. By staying with the standard 5-15P plug on the welder, you maintain the portability that is nice with a 120 volt welder.

Maybe MAC will comment on this.If you need a 30A 120V supply for your welder, this is a fine idea. If you label it and ONLY USE THE WELDER ON IT. And since you are going to do that, there's also no need to use #10 wire. Use #12. They duty cycle of the machine will never heat that wire.

But, with that receptacle, you'll never be able to keep people from using it for everything else, and now you're crossing the line. If you do make a 30A receptacle, I'd recommend using an RV receptacle, which you will still have to make sure no RVs get to plugged into it, or anything using an RV adapter. Have one RV adapter that you keep with your welder. If you want to go ahead and also have it available for RVs, then run it with the #10 wire.

[rain252]

If you need a 30A 120V supply for your welder, this is a fine idea. If you label it and ONLY USE THE WELDER ON IT. And since you are going to do that, there's also no need to use #10 wire. Use #12. They duty cycle of the machine will never heat that wire.

But, with that receptacle, you'll never be able to keep people from using it for everything else, and now you're crossing the line. If you do make a 30A receptacle, I'd recommend using an RV receptacle, which you will still have to make sure no RVs get to plugged into it, or anything using an RV adapter. Have one RV adapter that you keep with your welder. If you want to go ahead and also have it available for RVs, then run it with the #10 wire.

I had forgotten about RV plugs/receps. That's a great idea. He could wire the circuit with #10's for a true 30 amp installation, and put a RV plug on the welder. Then he could make up an adapter with a RV recep. on one end, and a standard 120v 5-15P plug on the other in case he wants to tote it somewhere else to use.

[rain252]

If you do make a 30A receptacle, I'd recommend using an RV receptacle, which you will still have to make sure no RVs get to plugged into it, or anything using an RV adapter.

MAC,
If he wires it up with #10's and a 30 amp breaker, why wouldn't you want to let an RV plug into it? Seems it would be a real 30 amp circuit and properly protected, and ok for RV. He's just be using his welder on a RV circuit.

Edit: Nevermind.....you had meant if wired with #12......been up working all night...I'm braid dead. :sleeping: