Bought another SA200

[kolot]

Picked up a basket case SA200, haven't run the numbers yet but it is reported to be a 1978. Guy swapped in a forklift motor, continental 4 , Think it is an F163 but might be a
162. It has the thin tube 1/4 tutn oil filler and the starter is in the 1 oclock position. I thought I read that the 162 never used a high mount starter, can anyone confirm this info?
motor is not totally up and running but has great compression, 130 across the board. The previous owner did cut out the vents to access the engine coupling, can this cause any problems and should I pull it down and reasemble using the method Kaye Sellon has posted. I know some people shortcut the teardown this way but don't know if it caused problems. Also has the hole in the top of the block for a distributor, I will have to decide wether to go Mag, or distributor. I have both on hand, any pros / cons? Over the next days when I get some time I will make some coil and exciter checks with the ohm meter and post up some pictures. hope to have the engine up and running soon.

[Joe Bill Moad]

Great Find!!! Sounds like a plan!!

[KC51]

Could you give the details on how to check coil and exciter?
Would like to check my 1944 200 before I start spending money on rebuilding the engine.
Good luck with your project...

[duaneb55]

The 1/4 turn oil fill cap says F-163.

My preference is mag over distributor.

Starter location - F162 or 163 - is dictated by flywheel housing or engine-to-generator adapter plate used.

Missing fins just means larger debris can get in. I hate it when somebody does that. :mad:

[kolot]

KC51, I just go to the Weldmart site and conduct the testing they spell out, you should check it out and order their free CD. Lots of links to it on this site.
I am posting some pictures, paid $250 for it, PO says motor was bad and he got this motor with reported 500 hrs. also got xtra carb, Mag that is a little rough, and starter. has a slightly dented hood and all sheet metal but no side doors. Compression checked out OK.
I have the procedure to install a mag, anyone have the procedure to install a distributor. I would think you set it to the timing mark on #1 TDC compression stroke, drop in the distributor so it points to #1 spark wire and go. The mag will need some work to use so I would like to try to start the machine with the distributor for now to check it out some more. Can anybody confirm F163 from pictures. Also any major difference to a forklift motor. I will need to get some type of Idler as it is missing and I need an exciter cover, anybody have them and will part with them, PM me,
Code is 8244, Serial is A-950082 so looks like report of 78 is really an 81 with Hex barrell. Thanks.

[kolot]

Anyone ever put the distributor in from scratch?

[60redfacer]

Yes it's for sure a 163. Bring No. 1 to tdc drop in distributor where rotor pointer is pointing to No. 1 on cap, snug the hold down clamp and give that a whirl. also distributor uses stranded plug wires where mag uses solid core. Hope this tiny bit of info helps

[kolot]

OK , may have found why previos owner could not get it started, It has been apart for the motor swap and aparently he did not know about the marks to line up the govenor gears, it was way out. Unfortanately it will need a front cover gasket and crank seal where the pulley mounts through the cover, will try to track down the numbers and order from NAPA or one of the online suppliers. Anybody have NAPA or Felpro numbers?

[duaneb55]

I take it you decided to go with the mag seeing as the distributor doesn't give a hoot about the governor gear timing.

[Welderman98]

That's definitely an interesting engine swap. All the pics make it look to be a twin to my '81 163. I know alot of guys like the older ones but I don't have much to complain about my '81.

[Welderman98]

By the way I've been reading this site for a long time and finally decided to sign up so I could put in my .02 so hello everyone.

[60redfacer]

Here's a Fel-Pro # for a front timing set 5418-1. Last one I bought was about 17 dollars from Napa

[kolot]

Duane, what I decided was to put both in since I have to plug or cover one of the holes anyway and also gives me a backup ignition. LOL. More to become familiar with the distributor, not much too it just like a car. Now I lined up #4 and put in the Mag on TDC. Could not get it to fire off of the mag or the distributor. spark test/ indicator shows the wires to be firing. and I will have to check the timing again, but I have done this a few times now with good success so think I have it right. question is does the govenor have to be lined up with the marks on any particular stroke or cylinder position when installing? I was cranking the motor and shooting carb cleaner in the throat to see if it would fire, no other fuel source at this time. Heres some pictures of the timing marks if anyone isn't familiar, and also some pictures of what the rodents drag in. LOL. Timing marks look off but they are aligned, just a bad angle on the camera. Also discovered the best way to clean or work on the brushes is to pull the hole brush holder right out, lot easier.

[kolot]

Bad picture on that govenor and gear, heres a better one.

Thanks for that timig set #.

Made my gaskets from last nights Pizza box, once I get it up and running/ welding, I 'll be more comfortable spending a couple bucks on it.

[duaneb55]

Had to look real hard at that photo 'cause at first glance it looked like the governor driven gear teeth aren't meshing with the camshaft gear. :dizzy:

[duaneb55]

question is does the govenor have to be lined up with the marks on any particular stroke or cylinder position when installing?
#4 cylinder needs to be at TDC on the compression stroke (finger over the plug hole to check).


Also discovered the best way to clean or work on the brushes is to pull the hole brush holder right out, lot easier.
Yep. :D

[kolot]

Hello Duane, Those marks in the pictures aren't as clear as I would have liked, took them for those that haven't seen them and they are more confusing than helpfull, Those gears don't align flush, the cam gear sits back farther than the govenor so between that and the angle of the beveled gears it looks like they are off. I will try a different camera angle to get some clear pictures. Also sitting here I got to thinking, when I was bringing the # 4 up on compression I was using a wrench on the armature nut, I also now remember that I was turning the engine counter clockwise where as the starter throws it clockwise. could this have put me on the exhaust stroke instead of compression stroke. will reset in a couple days and try it again.

[kolot]

Had to look real hard at that photo 'cause at first glance it looked like the governor driven gear teeth aren't meshing with the camshaft gear. :dizzy:

thats partly due to the bevel of the gear and alot to do with camera angle, my bad. LOL

[duaneb55]

Yeah I'm familiar with how the gears are offset (just set a mag tonight) but the photo angle and resulting optical illusion thru me for a little bit. :eek:

[kolot]

what do you think about rolling the engine counterclockwise making compression in #4, did that mess me up, It was late but I think that is just what I did. that would put my timing off I believe,

[duaneb55]

Turning it backwards would yield compression out of the plug hole on the reversed power stroke and TDC would still be the same as TDC on the compression stroke.

Did you bench test the mag for spark before setting it?

[kolot]

The Mag I am using is an American Bosch, I removed it from my Redface because it would fire and run great from a cold start then would cut out and not restart until it cooled off, that says bad coil to me. So i took the Mag to the Mag Guru and he quickly adjusted it and set the points, and then checked the coil, confirmed bad coil. Said if I just want to use it to test fire the machine should work till I want a rebuild. However I noticed when i bench tested the Mag that it did make a good spark(but eratic and not as strong as it cranks over) but the snap and spring are not what I remember them being. Maybe the Mag Guru didn't get it quite right. However I tried the distributor as well and still no fire. I did use a clear spark checker in line and found the wires to be firing. However I am using the plugs that came with the machine, they are old and I did not check the actual plug to see if it is firing. Also it was late and I was tired, just using carb cleaner sprayed in the carb while cranking. Working today and tonight so I will get back to it tomorrow and put a better effort into the whole procedure.
Also set the mag to fire #4 on install, then also tried reclocking the wires with each 1 of the 4 on the # 4 position till I tried all wires. No pop at all.

[denrep]

Carb cleaner isn't engine fuel.
That's just washing the cylinders for a dry start.

From the sounds of things, (compression, spark, timing) I have a feeling that once the engine snorts something at least semi-combustible it'll be running. Give it a hit of propane.

Good Luck

[kamotz]

Hi Kolot, I was looking at your gov. And how far forward it seems to be set in relation to the cam gear. Are you sure that the mag is able to reach far enough in to engage the gov. Slot?
Mine seems to set back further and just about flush. You should have to play with it to get the mag to to insert into the slot. If it doesn't, the gov. Might be spinning and the mag not.
Cheers kamotz

[kolot]

Govenor and Mag are OK and making spark, spark could be stronger. Camera angle and picture are decieving.

Denrep, The carb cleaner will speed up and already running engine but may not be so good to fire one, I always forget about the option to squirt a little propane up there from the Bernzomatic torch, I'll try that tomorrow or hook up and Aux. fuel tank. By carb cleaner , I mean the aerosol spray can type. Do you think it wouldn't even as much as pop. Could be the hole problem. I don't like to use starting fluid on and engine unless I really have to , and then I usually save it for the diesels.

[NVW]

I would pull the plug and see if they spark.

Any carb cleaner I've used will kill a running engine.

[60redfacer]

In my opinion I always get it to fire with the carb and fresh gas

[duaneb55]

I pop engines off all the time with Brake Kleen.

I use the small tank propane soldering torch (tip removed) for single cylinder units too and the bigger tanks with a hose for larger engines. The bigger tanks/hose is a little trickier getting the right mixture on small engines for running though.

[kolot]

Succes! hooked up and Aux tank and some gas, nothing at first but then I remembered to pull the govenor rod to Idle position and cranked it right up, let it warm a little and let the rod go, right up to high idle with a little cough and stumble, not much. Then running away. Sounded like it was running a little fast, confirmed my suspicion when I put the meter on the output studs, 130 v DC, I know , to much but I think getting the proper speeds set will bring this down. Also 156v DC at the aux. outlet. Point being the generator is producing power. Run time short lived as the radiator is not on. Have to send it out for repair, one of the cores is leaking somewhere. will look it over some more, and the mag slot at 6 Oclock is dripping oil pretty good. Will need the right bolt and gasket there. Motor did sound good, but starter has a tendency to clash rather than mesh. All in all a good project to continue on with. As predicted a couple of starts and stops and the mag cut out, will now switch to the distributor. Probably gonna put the radiator on to let her run out long enough to dynamic time the mag and distributor, and also set carb mixture and set up RPM. Will have to read up on setting the govenor. Do not have the idle solenoid , did not come with the machine, got a feeling PO left it on the junked engine. Have circuit board and idle switch and reed switch. Probably can just pick up a solenoid and fab a bracket. Will copy my 81. no wires going to the carb area for a solenoid and no oil pressure switch to hook up the green light too. anybody know of a generic solenoid that will work?

[kolot]

Here's a Fel-Pro # for a front timing set 5418-1. Last one I bought was about 17 dollars from Napa
NAPA says no go on that number, any othe letters or digits?

[denrep]

I believe the front cover set is, Fel-Pro TCS5418-2

Unless... the engine has an oddball lift-truck front arrangement.

But now I wonder about 60redfacer's "-1" suffix?
TCS something anyway, you'll have to do some homework.

[60redfacer]

Both numbers are good numbers for front timing sets, look on Rock Auto.

For the Idle solenoid look at www.welderpartswarehouse.net, they have the bracket for $10 and the solenoid for $49. Hope this helps

[denrep]

Both numbers are good numbers for front timing sets, look on Rock Auto. . . .
Right.
BTW, I'm not saying Kolot's need is or isn't TCS5418-1 or the similar plain old no-suffix TCS5418 or even TCS5418-2, or maybe even some other set. Being a forklift engine swap, who knows.

The detailed homework is up to Kolot, but at least he's closer now.

Good Luck

[60redfacer]

Yes sir you're rite, hearing one bust off and run is always a good sound. Especially a straight piped 163

[kolot]

Yes sir you're rite, hearing one bust off and run is always a good sound. Especially a straight piped 163
So true! something about that deep , throaty purr, LOL>

Well, good thing for a slight oil leak, looked really milky, when I got it I pulled the dipstick to check the oil and it was so new and clean I could hardly read it but I noted it was a little high on the stick. Dumped the oil/ Gravy, must have been water in the bottom ot the pan , so now and oil change is in order. Boy has regular oil gotten expensive, I use to dump and change oil at the drop of a hat or any sign of trouble. That 5 quarts of oil now costs me over $25. Not a throw away item like it used to be. Thanks for the links on the bracket and idler, not worth fabbing or scavenging at those prices.

[60redfacer]

I hear ya, he's fast on shipping too. I've been using Shell Rotella T, it's hard to find but they do make it in 10w-30.

[kolot]

[Put new oil lines on it today, used 1/4 copper and compression fittings.
[Any one think 1/4 inch is not big enough, seems to be bigger than the orifices.
[ Oil feeds from the left , through the header and filter and exits and returns from the right.
95891
Also tried to prefill the Fram PB50 but the oil wouldn't go down throught he center hole which I found was not open like most filters but had a tiny, almost pin size hole. is this a pressure bypass filter or something, Right filter at all? got that number from one of the posts.
95901
Bear with me, I'm trying to figure out the post text between picture thing, think I might have it. "T" next to the dipstick has a pipe plug, have and oil pressure switch on order and will tap in here for the green light and probably the alternator if I go to a 3 wire Delco.

[duaneb55]

That's the right filter and don't concern yourself with filling the filter as you would with a full flow type. The Continental uses a by-pass type filter not to be confused with the by-pass valve in a full flow type.

As a by-pass type, the filter only sees part of the total oil flow from the oil pump from the oil passage tap and the return line simply dumps the filtered oil back to the sump rather than to the oil galley and bearings.

The full flow type gets its name from the fact that the "full flow" from the oil pump passes thru the filter before going on to the bearings before draining back to the sump internally. Because the full flow of oil has to pass thru the filter first, they are equipped with a by-pass valve that opens in the event the filter becomes plugged and can't pass any oil on to the engine. The thought is unfiltered oil is better than no oil at all.


Now for that gauge. Being on the outlet - or sump side - of the filter head, you're not going to get a true pressure reading if any at all as the return line is basically open to the sump. Pressure gauge should go on the tee fitting for the supply line or on the other side of the filter head.

I would also give consideration to using long nuts on your copper lines to prevent a line fracture at the nut from vibration over time due to the lack of support of the copper line.

[kolot]

Good catch on the guage Duane, see what you mean, on the return pressure won't build,just want's to fall to the sump, will have to rethink that one, May have to put it and the pressure switch on the block outlet down low.
Also if this system is only a by pass filter and not a full flow the 1/4 lines should be fine. Also in that the claims of the kits that offer bigger lines aren't going to do anything for more flow, best thing to do is to run the biggest filter you can find I suppose if you desire to increase oil capacity. This one took 5 quarts in the pan and anticipate it to need more once that filter fills.

[duaneb55]

Yep, 1/4" line size is fine. No doubt you recall this thread:
http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=42813&highlight=by-pass

[kolot]

yeah, that came to mind before you mentioned it. went to put a water temp guage I had kicking around in it last night but the probe seemed to be smaller than the one that had been cut off at the block. The existing one had been cut off and was sealing and not leaking. It is in a bushing in the block. The probe I have on the functional guage looks to be the same length and shape however the diameter is smaller, maybe 3/8 as opposed to the existing 1/2 inch. in any event it was loose in the bushing and would not seal. Auto parts store, NAPA , Advanced had no clue where to get bushings, anybody have a source for just the bushing. seems to be a simple pipe thread reducer with and internal flange to seat against.

[NVW]

would a reducer from a plumbing shop or hardware store work?

[duaneb55]

No because he's talking about the flange bushing adapter that the capilary bulb seals against.

I think it's VDO that uses the small bulb flange bushing adapter. I'll have to look but I may have one kicking around.

I take it someone removed the gauge but let the engine it was used in get away. :eek:

[NVW]

OK, I just read the 3/8" and 1/2" threads thinking a reducer would work.

[kolot]

OK, I just read the 3/8" and 1/2" threads thinking a reducer would work.

From the outside it looks just like a black iron pipe bushing like any found in a plumbing supply, but these are made with a beveled lip on the ID. The capilary bulb has a lip on it, when it slips up the middle the lip seats on the bevel then the backing bushing threads in and tightens it down on the seat. Hard to explain if you don't have one to look at but that it in a nut shell.

Duane, the old one was in the block , cap bulb and all, but the line was hacked off flush, had thought about soldering the guage lead on the old bulb but why carve up a working one if I can find the right bushing. At firs glance I thought they were the same as they were almost identical in appearance and length , just one is a little smaller on the Dia.
I'll see if I can find anything for VDO
I can always find another guage and lead, just found this one lying around the garage so thought what the hey!

[60redfacer]

I've got a few of them laying around from my hot rod days, let me know if you cant find one. Shipping shouldn't be no more than a dollar

[NVW]

From the outside it looks just like a black iron pipe bushing like any found in a plumbing supply, but these are made with a beveled lip on the ID. The capilary bulb has a lip on it, when it slips up the middle the lip seats on the bevel then the backing bushing threads in and tightens it down on the seat. Hard to explain if you don't have one to look at but that it in a nut shell.


I know exactly what you mean, my old Fordson Power Major is like that.

[kolot]

Minor set back, having trouble with the starter cranking it over, starter is OK and solenoid is ok, starter will sometimes engage and turn the engine over and fire , but more often the gears wont mesh and the starter just turns away without cranking the engine. Starter has 9 T and the flywheel has 133 T, now I think I may have a compatibility problem. I thing he Lincoln welders with F163 are supposed to have either a 96 or 119 tooth ring gear. Does anyone know if I have the wrong Ring/ Flywheel or can I just change out the starter? Probably don't want it set up to much different than a standard SA200 in order to get parts down the line.

[RobertDoubrava]

My '66 has a 10T drive on the starter, it's a Delco-Remy 1107382. Is there an ID tag or any numbers on the starter motor?

[kolot]

Got a hold of the PO who did the engine swap, he says he put the flywheel from the original motor on it with the original starter. He gave me the extra starter that was from the forklift and it has a different mounting then on the SA200 plate but it too has 9T.. Said he had occasional problem with starter not meshing. Question still stands, how many teeth on and SA200 ring gear, 1981 model code#8244. definately a 9T starter. My ring gear has 133 T.

[denrep]

Kolot - I'll try to do some tooth counting tomorrow.

For troubleshooting, removing the solenoid and manually actuating the plunger can sometimes give a good indication what is/isn't happening.

Could be a depth issue. Forklift crankshaft flange may have located flywheel at a different distance from back of block than OE Lincoln. Have you measured block-plate to ring-gear distance, to compare with starter-flange to drive-gear distance?

Good Luck

[kolot]

Kolot - I'll try to do some tooth counting tomorrow.

For troubleshooting, removing the solenoid and manually actuating the plunger can sometimes give a good indication what is/isn't happening.

Could be a depth issue. Forklift crankshaft flange may have located flywheel at a different distance from back of block than OE Lincoln. Have you measured block-plate to ring-gear distance, to compare with starter-flange to drive-gear distance?

Good Luck
Starter off machine, starter and drive mechanism seem strong, spins fine and throws the drive out with good force.
Have not checked the depth from block face in relation to starter nose and measurements.
It does not fully engage more often than it does engage, but, when it does engage it seems normal, no grinding going in, no clashing, and spins the engine seeminly normal with no binding, I am not finding any evidence of the teeth wearing or any shavings, nothing of that nature. What it seems is happening is that when the starter drive throws the sproket forward it it just not quite meshing and dropping into the ring gear, instead I believe it is contacting the face of the ring gear and spinning without engaging. That could be caused by the slightest fraction of an inch I believe. I think I may try loosening the mounting plates and try kicking the plate as far as I can in the existing holes away from the ring gear. Previous owner stated it would miss once in a while, now it is more often than not and he did have the generator split and reconnected when he swapped motors. Also told me he had to enlarge the flyweely holes to mount to the bigger crankshaft flange,or flange holes. Not sure what he is telling me. Everything seems to be coupled correctly , Hate to do it if I don't have to but I may split the unit to check/verify and come back out fresh. Just don't want to find out the starter and ring gear were not compatible. Example is the old SB Chevys used one starter for automatics and one for Standards due to tooth count on ring gears. Thanks for the effort Den. let me know how many teeth you have. I have 133 and will enter it to the sticky once I verify what we are coming up with.

[denrep]

. . . I believe it is contacting the face of the ring gear and spinning without engaging. That could be caused by the slightest fraction of an inch I believe. I think I may try loosening the mounting plates and try kicking the plate as far as I can in the existing holes away from the ring gear. . .

Then the plate would have to move diagonally towards 2 o'clock. If that's the case, myself, instead of moving the plate I'd probably "custom fit" the starter by relieving the plate or starter end housing. Could also be a bent armature shaft or a starter end housing that was machined off spec.
---------
No grand total on the flywheel teeth yet.
Only one 'round here who can 'count that high is Alfred, and he's down on Bourbon Street, so his count won't be worth a rip anyway.
However, 9 teeth center-to-center measure 2.5" at the crown.

Here's a "1000 words" on it :
108691

[kolot]

Can't get to the machine to check measurments today, will do so tomorrow, Contacted Monte's Equipment they are real good with Continental engines and parts. This is the reply to date but i will try to get more specific info, like casting numbers for the starters.
"
We believe we can supply the correct starter for your Lincoln Welder with a ring gear of 133 teeth: $210.10.

That starter and flywheel was originally supplied by Lincoln Welder."
"Many starters have nine teeth...other factors come into play. That ring gear takes a specific starter for the Lincoln Welder."

At first I took this the wrong way then I remember reading on the Weldmart site that Lincoln bought their engines from Continental then added their own sourced starters , flywheels and other parts. Also went on to say Lincoln didn't always keep good track of what came on what. Weldmart also noted flywheel ring gears with 96T and 119 T but did not mention 133T. Monte's said it was Lincoln specific. If you guys can come up with some info on what ring gears go with what starters we can put it in the SA200 sticky and might help us or others down the line. Thing that gets me is I see starters online or ebay for sale all the time for SA200's, I always thought they were all the same, seems to me they are not, rarely mention what starter # or how many teeth they have, would help if we needed to match up a used one here or there. Anybody have more info?

How do we actually identify who made the starter and what part # they are. I have seen some posts that state Delco and other major names?

[Bluewelders]

The last can of carb cleaner I used,was almost fire proof.
I squirted a bunch into the carb bowl,and the engine wouldn't even fire.

[duaneb55]

The code# 7168 I have in the shop has a 10T Delco Remy with a 1-1/8" mounting face to leading edge of ring gear. ~ 3-1/2 teeth per inch ring gear. Didn't count for total teeth.

Starter housing is machined for oil pan side and rail clearance.
109371
109381
109391

[kolot]

The code# 7168 I have in the shop has a 10T Delco Remy with a 1-1/8" mounting face to leading edge of ring gear. ~ 3-1/2 teeth per inch ring gear. Didn't count for total teeth.

Starter housing is machined for oil pan side and rail clearance.
109371
109381
109391
Hi Duane, I've read about these, I assume a low or 5oclock mount? Mine is not relieved for any clearance. but I see you have 10 T vs. 9T.
What year machine?
With Denrep's being a leading edge to face of ring gear 1 3/16" I would say close enough to call the same, agreed? but may not match up to Den's 9 teeth at 2.5" Your 3 1/2 T per inch would be ,what , 8 3/4 per 2 1/2 inch. Now that could be a different overall ring gear of just a minimal distance due to 2 different guys measuring with 2 different types of measuring devices. Thats why it is important to count the total teeth, yes a pain I know , but more accurate. I marked them in increments of 10 then rolled a second lap counting them.
Maybe I will try to contact Lincoln and ask them what configurations Lincoln used, Maybe Bill or Kay Sellon would know, you out there Kaye?

[duaneb55]

A late '72 and yes, 5 o'clock low mount.
109451

The late '58 in the yard has a 9T with housing small enough that no relief machining was required. However, it does require a 1/2" spacer between the starter and engine plate for proper drive-to-flywheel engagement. The spacer (and engine plate) has a slightly larger diameter pilot than the starter which is the same as the younger '72.

I took denreps' dimension to be 13/16" and not 1-3/16". ??

[kolot]

my bad on the 13/16 cant read the dial caliper to be sure. So it is beginning to look like a lot of different configurations for the starters on these things even though most are F162/ F163.

[denrep]

That's 13/16 from starter mounting pad surface to ring-gear surface that's nearest to engine.

Here's the fleawheel, 133 -count 'em- teeth.

109781

[kolot]

Denrep, I didn't expect you to dissasemble your 200 for me. LOL
But seriously thanks, what I know now is at least this, the 133T ring is not some orphan not found on that SA200 and aparently at least yours is operated by a starter that has 9T. So I am at least traveling the right road.
Got home late tonight and did not get to measuring but will have time tomorrow. I have not split one of these to date, is that how the flywheel looks by itself, I was picturing it as a slolid unit like found on and auto?
Also I think I will give the mounting plate a good look, If it were bent or deformed in the area ot the starter mount it may cause that drive gear to go in at and angle and not allow it to mesh properly, if that checks I may try some shimming here and there to se what results I get. Thanks for being the tooth ferry. LOL

[duaneb55]

That's the engine side.

The generator side looks like this . . .
110031

[denrep]

That's the engine side.

The generator side looks like this . . .

http://weldingweb.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=110031&d=1329975112


Hmmm
That ring-gear appears to be located further from the block-plate and of smaller diameter and with more coarse teeth.
The block-plate looks more round too.
What model is that one, Duaneb?

[duaneb55]

'58 with F-162, Code 3555.

Another angle. . .
110121

[denrep]

The plate doesn't look so round now, or as far from the ring-gear.

Although the teeth look even more coarse. :laugh:


Good luck

[kolot]

OK, my mounting plate face to the ring gear face is 3/4" might be a difference in the crank flange.
The starter is a Delco Remy #1109437 1A 09. The nose casting # 491
I tore it down and found the bushing may be worn, not severely but signifacantly. I pushed the bushing out and turned it 180 deg. It didn't totally fix the problem but it did seem to engage more often, at least 50% of the time maybe more. So if the bushing is worn it could put that starter drive just out of alignment enough to keep it from properly meshing. I will try to get new bushings and install them. Let you know how it goes. Have to try to find a local source,

[kolot]

Well, I still haven't resolved the starter issue and may try a new Solenoid.
But better yet, I don't have much in this one ,yet, and from day one figured I would need a new radiator as it has been hit and repaired and hit again. Thinking about chopping it just for the hell of it. It needs a total tear down and paint anyway. What are you guys using for electric fans. I am also thinking about adapting an aluminum radiator from Summit racing, they have some units that are close in size and configuration. The Sa's seem to pull air through the machine and out through the radiator, Is the cooling air over the generator all that big a deal as it has it's own cooling fins on the Gen. ? Original design calls for doors closed while running as part of the cooling, but I think we all have seem many of these running no doors for years without problems. What are you guys with chopped units using? I can put a larger alternator on easy enough. Also what problems are foreseen for a chopped machine?