View Full Version : Is this rod available ?
03-24-2004, 04:44 PM
Please forgive the irony in this question but is there such a rod designed to cut metal? :confused: Kind of like a poor mans plasma cutter
03-24-2004, 04:46 PM
There are rods made to cut metal, but there is no way the result approaches the results delivered by a cutting torch, let alone plasma.
Cutting with arc also generally requires very large amounts of amperage.
03-24-2004, 04:54 PM
Cool. I was thinking it would come close to a oxy/as cut. Would that be correct?
A very poor oxy/acetylene cut, maybe.
What thickness are you trying to cut through?
Crank up the amps on a 6010 rod and cut away, I've been known to do that once, maybe twice. No more than that.
03-24-2004, 05:05 PM
About as close as a hand grenade is to a 5" howitser.
Believe me, these things are NOT something you want to play with unless you have a serious desire to reenact a Budist Monk incinertaing himself.
03-24-2004, 05:13 PM
I wanted to cut 3/16 max.
6010 rod eh? Good idea.
My machine is maxed out at 180. It might not be enough
03-24-2004, 05:18 PM
Dip the rod in water, BEFORE inserting it in the stinger.
Do it outside where it will be hard to start a fire, and have at it.
Probably won't take more than 1 rod to convince you it ain't the way to cut metal.
Have a fire extinguisher handy.
03-24-2004, 05:22 PM
Hahaha....I may stick to my cut off wheels now ;)
03-24-2004, 05:30 PM
I think you'll be better off that way.
03-24-2004, 05:47 PM
they do make a rod for cutting and the name slips my mind ...but you need a different stinger and air compressure ....the rod is hollow ....you hook up compressed air to the stinger and put in hollow rod .....strike arc...when you get a puddle pull the air trigger and away you go....only use it once to cut 3" thick...cut nice
03-24-2004, 06:00 PM
sounds like you are talking about Carbon-Air gouging.
The rod is actually made of Carbon, usually coated in a thin layer of copper.
The process has all the disadvantages of arc-cutting plus messy carbon dust getting blown everywhere.
Best done in someone else's shop!
03-24-2004, 06:17 PM
yep that would be it ....from what i remember it did cut nice but as far at mess it's kinda hard to tell in coal fired plant
03-24-2004, 06:41 PM
03-24-2004, 09:45 PM
Here's the section of the manual the Famed Herbivor learned from when he took a break from shoeing George Washington"s mules.
It not only covers carbon arc, but metal arc and other cutting methods as well. No wonder RockyD is so smart.
03-24-2004, 10:15 PM
Good God almighty !......Use Oxy-Acetylene ! With a little practice, you can make cut's that look as good (almost) as a hacksaw ! Very little grinding !
HINT: Make sure you use the right size tip, and oxygen pressure
for what you're trying to cut. (A tip that will slice through 3/4" like butter will make 1/16" a mess) !
I speak from experience !
03-24-2004, 10:53 PM
Cutting with rods is one of those things you may want to do just so you get the hang of it. It's a crank it up and then push-lift, push-lift, push-lift thing. Big billowing arc and molten lava every where, but if you are in a real pinch it will get the job done. Grab some scrap and have at it. Then forget about it till that special need arises.
Kind of like using channel locks or vise grips. You'll know when you need 'em. Untill then, there's usually a better way.
03-24-2004, 11:05 PM
*Agree with Sandy*
"Sometimes, you just "want" to try different things ! :)
03-24-2004, 11:39 PM
Yea, I can remember many years ago getting ahold of some rubber coated rods that looked like brake line, and hooking an air hose and blow gun to them, just to see how much fun it was.
I was about wore out beatin burning grass with an asbestos blanket when them guys with the big red trucks with the flashing lights on top showed up to help. After that, what seemed like it might be a good idea to try always underwent some serious thinking before I try it.
03-24-2004, 11:46 PM
Franz....Let's not forget our ol' friends, O.S.H.A. !
If the the rod's were THAT dangerous, I'm sure they would never approve of us having access to them !
03-25-2004, 06:21 PM
I was involved in carbon arc cutting on a grand scale only once - Scandanavian Air Service ran a DC-10-30 off the end of an icy runway at JFK and out into Jamaica Bay in '84. Everyone got out OK. The company sent me up there (sorta' in a "crash vulture" role ) to evaluate buying it and rebuilding it as a freighter. Trouble was, it was stuck out in the bay with a folded nose gear, resting on the wing engines, and with its tail feathers up in the air, blocking a prime departure runway. After 5 days, the NY Port Authority was screaming. No choice - we had to cut the wing engine pylons off ($1 mil each) with carbon arc torches so we could winch this bird out of the bay.
We bought the bird and rebuilt it there. Put a freighter floor, cargo system and cargo door in it. (That's always tricky with a pressure vessel - kinda' like having a big hinged door on your compressor tank). Took the better part of a year to rebuild and convert 'er. But she's still flying for us today. New pylons and engines, of course.
03-25-2004, 07:36 PM
OP, I thought the manufacturer hung those twirly fans on fuse pins, why didn't you just remove the pins and leave the giant fan drop?
03-25-2004, 11:37 PM
Douglas didn't exactly build their Diesel 10 that way. I was already the company expert on DC-10 wing engine pylons when I went to NY, what with all the problems dating back to that fatal (279 folks) AA DC-10 crash in Chicago in '79 when the rear bulkhead on a No 3 pylon failed. (AA had done a no-no - they changed that engine 400 hrs earlier, but mated to a pylon, a 15,000 lb combination, using a forklift, which is a load nearly impossible to control accurately, and they whacked the 7075 aft pylon bulkhead in the process against the wing clevis, which started a crack.) The pylon is held to the wing front spar by the tombstone fitting (appropriately named) against the footstool fitting with multiple bolts. A single main bolt and monoball bearing holds the pylon at the rear to the wing clevis fitting. (maybe I'll post some sketches when I return, but I'm leaving for TX on Sat for a week or so.) None of those bolts had failed on my SAS airplane. Guess the loads weren't high enough. The engines are held to the pylon by two bolts and a truss fitting at the front mount and 4 bolts at the rear mount. These bolts are usually 1" - 1 1/4" dia., Multiphase 159 or Inconel and heat treated to above 280,000 KSI - about Rockwell C of 57.
The real problem was time and the fact that the beast was sitting on soft muck and the mains had sunk far enough that it was resting on both wing engines (which incidentally were trash after hitting the water at max reverse thrust). No way to jack it or get to either the rear pylon mount or either front or rear engine mount. The pylons were pretty much out of water enough for cutting. About all we could do was get some flotation bags under the wings for some extra lift and cut the pylons. It was Feb. and the water was about 35 degrees, so no one wanted to work in it.
03-26-2004, 01:57 AM
So, yer goin down to help Cutter open that vise up, are ya.
If you woulda come up to ROC in February, you'd have met guys who think 35 degree water is a tad warm for baby bathing. Then City boys just ain't got what it takes.
You give us Nothern newyorkers half a day, and we'll show you how to use air bags and lift anything.
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