My Forney Welder Project.
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Cincinnati Ohio
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    My Forney Welder Project.

    I recently acquired a Forney welder from CraigsList for the mere price of 50.00.
    Well after cleaning it up putting a home made insulator nut on the battery charger lead and contacting Forney about the users manual and operating instructions. I decided to try the welder out. Here are the results.
    The first picture is a 6010 1/8" rod on 140amp just to see what I could do as I'm not a good stick welder yet....
    Second picture is a fillet weld with the same 6010 1/8" 140amp AC
    Third picture is a fillet with 7018H4R 3/32" 105amp AC
    Fourth and Fifth picture is of the 7018H4R rod......
    The7018 rods are rusted some and I think that's the reason for the weld looking like it did/does.Opinions please.



    I got the 7018 rods from work. They were in a 5 gal bucket that some one had set under a leaking roof:. they were 2 weeks old at the time I just turned the bucket upside down and let them dry for about a month, now there about 3 yrs old.
    Attached Images Attached Images      
    Miller Thunderbolt 225
    Millermatic 130 XP
    Lincoln HD 100
    Forney C-5bt Arc welder
    Plasma Cutter Gianteach Cut40A
    Cent Machinery Bandsaw Horz/Vert
    Cent Machinery 16Speed H.D. Drill Press
    Chicago Electric 130amp tig/90 amp Arc

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    235

    Re: My Forney Welder Project.

    toss that rod in the dumpster. is your machine ac/dc? if it's ac only buy rod that corresponds to ac welding. what ever rod you get keep it protected and dry. I'm weary of self teach welding, in school you learn how to weld by just welding but there are some important guidelines (which are very simple and basic) that you should know when welding, not knowing them can really throw you off or you could be practicing bad habits. but keep it up either way, it takes a lot of time to get good at it, and keep note of what you do when things look good and when things look bad, and try to learn from it. read up on rod and filler material. looks like a good start though

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    South Central Kansas
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    286

    Re: My Forney Welder Project.

    Try you some 6013 and some 7014 with that welder, I am sure you will be a lot more pleased with the results.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    south GA where its hot in summer and cold in winter
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    3,615

    Re: My Forney Welder Project.

    Even I wouldn't use those 7018's.

    6010 is not a good rod to start with either, because it is a fast freeze rod and you can't achieve the same feel as other more common rods.

    A 7018 is a good rod to learn on.

    7014 is not bad, but may be too fast of a deposition rate.

    6011 is a good rod to learn with.
    Welders:
    Esab Migmaster 250
    Penncraft 230 (oldy but goody)
    HF Plasma 30 (Italian)
    Lincoln Ranger 8
    Smith Oxy/Acetylene/Propane
    Lincoln SA200
    Everlast Power Tig 250 EX
    Everlast PowerUltra 205

  5. #5
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    May 2007
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    Cincinnati Ohio
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    590

    Re: My Forney Welder Project.

    Thanks guys I'll get some 7014 and 6011 rods a practice some more. And post up the pics.
    With the ( 6010 being a fast freeze rod ) is that sort of like a hard facing rod?
    Miller Thunderbolt 225
    Millermatic 130 XP
    Lincoln HD 100
    Forney C-5bt Arc welder
    Plasma Cutter Gianteach Cut40A
    Cent Machinery Bandsaw Horz/Vert
    Cent Machinery 16Speed H.D. Drill Press
    Chicago Electric 130amp tig/90 amp Arc

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Okanagan Valley.
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    877

    Re: My Forney Welder Project.

    not quite. 6010 solidifies faster than 7018. 6010 is great for filling gaps. For a flat 7018 weld, you don't need to weave, just drag it at say, a 30 degree angle or so to the direction you're traveling. vertical angle depends on the size of weld you're trying to lay. Really, the only position you need to weave with 7018 is vertical.


    6010 isn't a hard surfacing rod, though I will say that hard facing is evil, and this is the voice of experience. Anyone that's had to grind hard surfacing flush or stainless cladding will agree with me!

    I've never welded on an AC current. All the welding in the 5 years I've been in the trade has been DC, so I'm not much help here. I learned to stick weld back in my first welding course on a big hobart.

    To conclude, 6010 is a great rod, but you can't run 7018 like 6010. 6010 is the cats meow for large gaps when hardwire isn't available!
    Last edited by mb_welder; 12-09-2008 at 02:55 AM.

  7. #7
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    Jul 2008
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    Athens,Louisiana
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    Re: My Forney Welder Project.

    I was given some (about 30#) old 7018's in about the same condition as those..and while it pains me to give them up (love free)....they are the worst things to try to weld with..... I stuck a brand new 6011 in my almost 100 year old AC welder and thought I'd gone to heaven....so smooth & even.....

    Do yourself a favor...like all above have said....put those rods back and use something else to practice with that won't drive you nuts,so you can concentrate on your weld.

    You can't complain about the help you got from Forney though...Enjoy the new? toy.

  8. #8
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    Jan 2004
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    South Central Kansas
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    Re: My Forney Welder Project.

    Mudbugone, I still think you ought to pickup a small package of the 6013's and some 7014's and try them. I think you would be impressed with the bead you can lay down with them.

  9. #9
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    Jul 2008
    Location
    Athens,Louisiana
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    1,449

    Re: My Forney Welder Project.

    LOL...I've got both...actually all three,but was just saying the new 6011's were far superior to the old damp 7018's or even the old 6011's I had. I haven't been around the shop welding lately and I was just trying out the old AC welder while I was hooking it up and fitting cables & connections to it.

    The 7014's would probably be the simplest and easiest rods to run.... I just grabbed the 6011's because that's the container I opened first....and I was playing with some ratty scrap pieces.... Anything good I started to weld on..I kept putting it back,thinking it might come in handy for something useful ...don't want to use that good stuff for playing around...

    I was so disappointed in the old 7018's & old 6011's they will probably never get used..unless I get the old welder tuned in right...I probably needed to be using a bit more power and some way cleaner stock before putting down a bead. Although the 7018's were probably too far gone to be much use...they kept blowing out the sides....I'll wait to toss them until I have more time to dry them good and adjust the old welder better and attempt to use them in better circumstances....If they don't perform better then ..I'll knock the flux off and use them for misc. filler rods.Hate to toss 40# of rods.

  10. #10
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    May 2007
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    Cincinnati Ohio
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    590

    Re: My Forney Welder Project.

    Thanks everyone for the input. And as Mudbugone said ( hate to throw away free rods ) but I know you are right, they weld like using a clothes hanger I imagine. And the information on the 6010 has been noted.
    Going to think of something to build so I can use the stick welder.......
    Miller Thunderbolt 225
    Millermatic 130 XP
    Lincoln HD 100
    Forney C-5bt Arc welder
    Plasma Cutter Gianteach Cut40A
    Cent Machinery Bandsaw Horz/Vert
    Cent Machinery 16Speed H.D. Drill Press
    Chicago Electric 130amp tig/90 amp Arc

  11. #11
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    Jan 2008
    Location
    Northern MN
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    76

    Re: My Forney Welder Project.

    Hey ST,
    I am not going to tell you that those welds are great but I think you would see some instant improvements with different rod. That rod pictured is toast. When I weld with 7018 I use a slight weave more as a method of timing to make sure to deposit enough material on the weld. That and to tie in the sides of the weld. Another thing to watch is arc gap. I find that I use the light as an indicator of arc gap. I am not sure if it is right or not but it is the way that works for me. The key to stick welding is consistancy. Consistant arc gap, travel speed and weave if you use it with 7018. Try different rod angle, arc gap and machine settings. Keep after it, you'll get it. Looks as though you got a good start.

    I used to work at a place that had a old Forney AC machine under the bench. Tough welder. One of my coworkers that welded with it (and hated it) used to hook the stinger on what ever he was welding and let it buck while he went to lunch. That thing never died and when he got back whatever he was welding on was warm. He used to say that it came over on the Mayflower but I kinda think that it built the sawmill that sawed the timbers for the Mayflower and it was old then. Far as I know the thing is still under the bench and welding.
    Mack

  12. #12
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    May 2007
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    Re: My Forney Welder Project.

    Thanks Mark and I put the rods out in the trash as others here had also suggested. And there is a scrap guy? he collects all metal that is in the trash (and believe me not much from here) but he put the 5 gal bucket full of rods in the cab of his truck. Makes me wonder what his plans for them are...... For welding they are no good I know that much.
    Miller Thunderbolt 225
    Millermatic 130 XP
    Lincoln HD 100
    Forney C-5bt Arc welder
    Plasma Cutter Gianteach Cut40A
    Cent Machinery Bandsaw Horz/Vert
    Cent Machinery 16Speed H.D. Drill Press
    Chicago Electric 130amp tig/90 amp Arc

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Central PA
    Posts
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    Re: My Forney Welder Project.

    You said you welded with the 6010 on AC. 6010 is a DC rod only. 6011 can be used with both AC or DC.

    I disagree with one poster who stated that 7018 should not be weaved except in the vertical position. Been doing it for years repairing heavy equipment. When to use a "weave" is determined by the position of the weld, when doing multiple pass welding.

    The numbers on the rod will normally tell you what positions the rod can be used for. Example: 6010 - third digit is a 1, meaning ALL POSITION. If third digit (sometimes 4th as in the case of 11018 electrodes) is a 2 - FLAT or HORIZONTAL only. Third digit is 3 - FLAT only.

    The first 2 or 3 numbers tell you the tensile strength of the electrode. The 4th or 5th number tells you something about the flux composition and polarity requirements.

    6010 or 6011 are both deep penetrating, fast freezing electrodes. If I'm working on something that is rusty and can't get all the crap out of the weld area, I'll weld with 6010 (Lincoln 5p++++). 6013 has iron powder in the flux compostition which will melt and become part of the finished weld. 6013 is a shallower penetrating rod than 6010 or 6011, good for poor fit up.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    139

    Re: My Forney Welder Project.

    good point pa welder!
    Here is a link to educate yourself on different rods. There is a pdf version to, i save this kind of stuff for reference because since i dont do this everyday i cant possibly remember what i eat for breakfast.

    http://millerwelds.com/resources/tech_tips/stick_tips/

    Also at the bottom of the page are other tips for smaw to help you learn.... Just google for info. A lot out there...

  15. #15
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Cincinnati Ohio
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    590

    Re: My Forney Welder Project.

    Thanks Mustangous saved the .pdf file for printing and putting in the garage.
    Miller Thunderbolt 225
    Millermatic 130 XP
    Lincoln HD 100
    Forney C-5bt Arc welder
    Plasma Cutter Gianteach Cut40A
    Cent Machinery Bandsaw Horz/Vert
    Cent Machinery 16Speed H.D. Drill Press
    Chicago Electric 130amp tig/90 amp Arc

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Waco, Texas
    Posts
    45

    Re: My Forney Welder Project.

    Congrats on the 50 dollar Fourney! I bet with new electrodes and some practice, you will be able to lay down excellent beads. If time permits, post a pic or two with the new electrodes.

    Take Care,

    John

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Superior, WI
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    132

    Re: My Forney Welder Project.

    don't toss those old wet 7018 electrodes just yet, you can bust the flux off, shine with sandpaper, and use them for TIG filler...same metal as ER70 wire. Heck you can't waste something free.

  18. #18

    Re: My Forney Welder Project.

    Hi all I am a newb to both the board and to welding in general. I recently got a Forney C5-b AC welder. I am looking for some info on how to wire this thing in. According to the product info it needs a 230v 35a circuit this would require 8-3 wire. I am wondering if it is possible that this is incorrect and maybe I would run the outlet with 12-3 or 10-3 which are much more affordable. Any tips in this area would be greatly appreciated since I am really trying not to hire an electrician since I only paid 75 for the welder. I am pretty handy and have run regular 110v outlets so I'm not afraid of the wiring part just need to know for sure what I need.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    590

    Re: My Forney Welder Project.

    Jtodd I can only say that if the product info calls for 8-3 wire, then that's what I would run. I do however use a 10-3 SO cord for the extension cord on my Miller Thunderbolt 225 with no problems, but it's your garage if something happens! Better safe than sorry, and with the savings you got acquiring the welder you should spend the extra for the wire. Oh and mine is on a 50amp breaker double pole single throw.
    Miller Thunderbolt 225
    Millermatic 130 XP
    Lincoln HD 100
    Forney C-5bt Arc welder
    Plasma Cutter Gianteach Cut40A
    Cent Machinery Bandsaw Horz/Vert
    Cent Machinery 16Speed H.D. Drill Press
    Chicago Electric 130amp tig/90 amp Arc

  20. #20

    Re: My Forney Welder Project.

    Thanks Stwelder. Unfortunately the product sheet on shows that the welder is specced at 35a. The power cord on the back of it is 6-3 wire if i am reading it correctly so that is some pretty strong stuff. I guess i will go with the 8-3 into the garage for the circuit though just to make sure I'm covered.

  21. #21
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    May 2007
    Location
    Cincinnati Ohio
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    590

    Re: My Forney Welder Project.

    Sounds great Jtodd. And the Forney welder I have welds great, and I'm sure yours will too. Post some pics of your welds when you get her going.
    Miller Thunderbolt 225
    Millermatic 130 XP
    Lincoln HD 100
    Forney C-5bt Arc welder
    Plasma Cutter Gianteach Cut40A
    Cent Machinery Bandsaw Horz/Vert
    Cent Machinery 16Speed H.D. Drill Press
    Chicago Electric 130amp tig/90 amp Arc

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Offshore Corridor
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    434

    Re: My Forney Welder Project.

    6011's, ran 20 or so pounds of them on 3/8" coupons before i even tried to weld a joint. i highly recommend it. plus most of the scrap metal i get is all rusty, and the 6011 is great at cutting rust
    I break things for a living...

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