sa200 1979 f163 connecting rods
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  1. #1
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    sa200 1979 f163 connecting rods

    Can't seem to ffind any. Looked on Google and sent out a few emails. Engine number 1181 24. Ccode 365. Rebuilding motor xcompletely bought disassembled with no rods pistons. All I need to ffire her up.
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  2. #2
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    Re: sa200 1979 f163 connecting rods

    Check your local fork truck repair shops.
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  3. #3
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    Cool Re: sa200 1979 f163 connecting rods

    Sent them a message gotta wait to see what they say now. This is the monster i got. came on a heavy duty trailer although both tires need to be replaced. Takes up most of the garage too. Just started to repaint some parts and get ready to close her up. The machine was being parted and i picked it up for 750. Haven't seen anything closeby on cl so i grabbed it before to much was missing. So far all i need is oil filter air filter pistons rings bearings connecting rods and some patience on wiring this bad boy. it was labeled but its hard to follow and try to pair up with a wiring diagram.
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  4. #4
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    Re: sa200 1979 f163 connecting rods

    Try searching for Part # F226D400 Verify that it is correct but I do believe that this is the part# for a Continental F163 connecting rod.
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  5. #5
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    Re: sa200 1979 f163 connecting rods

    From the shot of the cylinder head, it's equipped with the not so common distributor ignition. Miller used the distributor as much or more than the magneto.

    Here's the wiring diagram for units equipped with the distributor.
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    There's actually three different rods used in F-163 over the years.


    (From the Continental L-Head Quick Reference Manual)

    Casting#s F400D500 & F400D502
    Early F-series rods with the F400D500 castings usually having the heavy walled pin bushing.

    Casting# F226D400
    Late F-series rod forged steel casting.

    Casting# F227D600
    Late F-series rod cast iron casting.
    NOTE: Don’t mix F226D400 and F227D600 rods in the same engine.



    The earlier versions also used two different bearings in the same engine. On two rods the bearing insert locating tabs are on one side and the other two rods are on the other. Later versions are all on the same side. Need to know this so you can be sure to get the correct bearings.


    From looking at the panel you're going to need a new Fine Current Control rheostat too.
    Last edited by duaneb55; 05-25-2013 at 10:56 AM.
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  6. #6
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    Re: sa200 1979 f163 connecting rods

    Here are few photos of what you are looking for.

    They both have the same dimensions and offset


    the first is out of a 1968

    HFHF-226D-400
    Manufactured by ATLAS

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    the second is out of a 1970

    F226D-400
    Manufactured by HITACHI

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    14 SA200's from 1936 to 1973
    SA250, Classic 300D she hasnt seen yet...Yes she has
    ESAB Power Cut 1600
    2 LN25 innershield, Mig
    Magnum SG Spool Gun / Control Module
    Tig Module K930
    250/250 round top
    Power Mig 180C

  7. #7
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    Re: sa200 1979 f163 connecting rods


  8. #8
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    Re: sa200 1979 f163 connecting rods

    i have the distributor, just rebuilt, and the coil (and a 40kv replacement although i don't know if i can use it). How do i determine which rod i need. Do i need to contact lincoln and they can tell me? How do you think i did price wise so far im 750$ into it. Going to have alot of fun with the wiring beause i didn't label the wires and a few are hard to read

    Start was also rebuilt excitier read 119 omhs and the main coil read 40 ohms. Right now i'm trying to put the crankshaft and flywheel on the main shaft. waiting for motor paint to fully dry and gotta get some lifts and jacks ready.
    Last edited by battlelava; 05-26-2013 at 01:53 PM.
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  9. #9
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    Re: sa200 1979 f163 connecting rods

    Rods with casting number F227D-600 would be found in later units and all 4 use the same bearing insert unlike the earlier "400" series that use one bearing insert for cylinders #1 & #3 and a different one for #2 & #4 due to the location of the lock tab grooves in these rods.

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    I understand the "402" series casting number all use the same insert as the later 600 casting as well.


    Another thing to watch out for is rods from the earlier F162 cannot be used in the F163 due to the smaller bearing bore of 2.0615"-2.0620" for the F162 vs. the slightly larger 2.1865"-2.1870" bore of the F163 to accommodate its larger diameter crank throw journal than that of the F162.
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  10. #10
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    Re: sa200 1979 f163 connecting rods

    Quote Originally Posted by duaneb55 View Post
    Rods with casting number F227D-600 would be found in later units and all 4 use the same bearing insert unlike the earlier "400" series that use one bearing insert for cylinders #1 & #3 and a different one for #2 & #4 due to the location of the lock tab grooves in these rods.

    I understand the "402" series casting number all use the same insert as the later 600 casting as well.


    Another thing to watch out for is rods from the earlier F162 cannot be used in the F163 due to the smaller bearing bore of 2.0615"-2.0620" for the F162 vs. the slightly larger 2.1865"-2.1870" bore of the F163 to accommodate its larger diameter crank throw journal than that of the F162.
    I'm definitely going to make sure its the f163.

    Quote Originally Posted by duaneb55 View Post
    From the shot of the cylinder head, it's equipped with the not so common distributor ignition. Miller used the distributor as much or more than the magneto.

    Here's the wiring diagram for units equipped with the distributor.
    Name:  pg4.jpg
Views: 875
Size:  101.0 KB

    There's actually three different rods used in F-163 over the years.


    (From the Continental L-Head Quick Reference Manual)

    Casting#s F400D500 & F400D502
    Early F-series rods with the F400D500 castings usually having the heavy walled pin bushing.

    Casting# F226D400
    Late F-series rod forged steel casting.

    Casting# F227D600
    Late F-series rod cast iron casting.
    NOTE: Don’t mix F226D400 and F227D600 rods in the same engine.



    The earlier versions also used two different bearings in the same engine. On two rods the bearing insert locating tabs are on one side and the other two rods are on the other. Later versions are all on the same side. Need to know this so you can be sure to get the correct bearings.


    From looking at the panel you're going to need a new Fine Current Control rheostat too.
    I got the distributor sitting next to the machine. Just been rebuilt along with a few other parts. I don't think there is a mag because i got a coil in there? not to knowledgeable on motors. This is the most complex motor i've dealt with so far even though its very simple. Still learning. How can i tell whether i need the cast iron or cast steel connecting rods. I pulled a few numbers off the crank, motor and head.

    Crank - GA F400C510 24
    ENGINE - 008 F281178 086 SSTG F480A612 COFOPZ (I'm not 100% sure hard to read)
    Head - 9B1C WF
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    1979 SA 200 RED seal w/ wp26
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  11. #11
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    Re: sa200 1979 f163 connecting rods

    some more photos of the work in progress. Don't know if this is the proper way to assemble the crank to the gen but its what I though of. Any ideas on how to seat the bearing. Should be able to put the block on and set the crank, cam, and timing gears/cover with the motor mount and bolt the gen to the block if i have the seals and bearings for the cam. So far on the list of things to buy are engine rebuild kit, connecting rods, gas tank, plugs, possibly new seals and cam bearings, rheostat (and remote) and eventually new brushes. Going together pretty good. taking my time as I'm just outta school and not making a big paycheck yet.
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    1979 SA 200 RED seal w/ wp26
    RealGear Mig 140
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  12. #12
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    Re: sa200 1979 f163 connecting rods

    Might want to get in touch with this member on rods and pistons.
    http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php...31#post2681631
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  13. #13
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    Re: sa200 1979 f163 connecting rods

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  14. #14
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    Re: sa200 1979 f163 connecting rods

    Quote Originally Posted by duaneb55 View Post
    Might want to get in touch with this member on rods and pistons.
    http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php...31#post2681631
    I bought this machine from him

    he parted out the connecting rods and some other small parts.

    In reference to the second link you posted

    NOTE: Don’t mix F226D400 and
    F227D600 rods in the same engine.

    So if i use either set it will work?
    Last edited by battlelava; 05-27-2013 at 01:59 AM.
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    1979 SA 200 RED seal w/ wp26
    RealGear Mig 140
    Linde AC 250 Amp Stick
    Lincoln AC/DC 225 buzz box w/ #9 flex scratch start Smith precision tig flowmeter

  15. #15
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    Re: sa200 1979 f163 connecting rods

    I obviously didn't see your location and put 2 and 2 together.

    Yes, either set will work. Just don't mix per the manual.
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  16. #16
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    Re: sa200 1979 f163 connecting rods

    Quote Originally Posted by duaneb55 View Post
    I obviously didn't see your location and put 2 and 2 together.
    Hes was great to work with. Hes got a topic on here of him taking it apart. He bought a lincoln eagle so he didn't need this machine. Shame because I would take the sa 200 over modern anyday. Something about old machines i like

    photo 1 - Is this the seal or is there suppose to be more?

    Photo 2 - What is this. part of the idler? i got another board thats a little bigger that i think is the idler

    Photo 3 - This part of the oil pump? doesn't seem to fit any of the engine block pins by where the seals would go

    photo 4- This is the bellows idler? got a solenoid in there. This get linked to the carb or the govener?

    photo 5 - Looks like the main cap? f600b( or a 8)-474 i think it was got it written down somewhere
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  17. #17
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    Re: sa200 1979 f163 connecting rods

    Photo 1 - Yes, that's the front seal. Originals are about 1/2-5/8" thick and have a felt wiper on the outside and lip seal on the inside. Aftermarket replacements are typically just single lip seals which is what that one looks like it may be.

    Photo 2 - That's the voltage regulator for the alternator. Plan on replacing it.

    Photo 3 - That's what's known as the front filler block. It fills the gap between the block and oil pan and serves to hole the strip seal at the front of the oil pan.

    Photo 4 - No, that's not the "bellows" type idler but rather just the boot for the electronic idler solenoid plunger. The attached linkage goes to the carburetor throttle lever.

    Photo 5 - Didn't make it.
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  18. #18
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    Re: sa200 1979 f163 connecting rods

    Did you read thru the Continental Repair manual and Quick Reference manual I posted links to? They should have answered your question regarding the front filler block.

    You'll also need to download the Lincoln electronic idler manual as well.
    http://www.lincolnelectric.com/asset...OLN3/IM277.pdf
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  19. #19
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    Re: sa200 1979 f163 connecting rods

    The voltage regulator. Can I make one or should I just buy one. I looked but ccouldny ffind the torque setting for the bell housing to motor plate or fflywheel to aemerature bolts
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  20. #20
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    Re: sa200 1979 f163 connecting rods

    I get my regulators here http://hybriweld.com/products/voltag..._store=default.

    Even though they don't look like the ones in the picture they're still a bolt on item and have held up in the field to date.


    As for torque, if a specific bolt is not listed in the torques chart then use the standard value for the particular bolt size and grade.
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  21. #21
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    Re: sa200 1979 f163 connecting rods

    Got the generator bearing set yesterday. Gonna. Try and figure out this mess of wiring. Can I gett the motor seals at Napa ect. I wantt to put the block in but I need the seal to. Get the motor mount in. Can the exciter fields be put in bacckwards?
    They call me ... youtube

    1979 SA 200 RED seal w/ wp26
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  22. #22
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    Re: sa200 1979 f163 connecting rods

    Are you buying all the engine parts/gaskets separately?

    Should go here http://www.agkits.com/continental-f1...x#!prettyPhoto and get the whole shebang including the pistons you need.

    If buying everything separately then yes, you can get the seal at NAPA - PN 21134 and if that crank pulley has a groove worn in it, you'll also need a speedi-sleeve PN 99212 from them as well.
    For details, go here http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=117031 and look at posts #13 & #18.

    As for the exciter coils, it would take quite a bit to install them backwards but a lot easier to wire them up incorrectly. Earlier versions had the wires and connections at the bottom of the exciter housing while later versions are at the top.

    Wires/connections on top . . .
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    . . . and on the bottom.
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    In either case, the (+) brush is always on the right and (-) on the left.
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    Probably clear as mud now.
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  23. #23
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    Re: sa200 1979 f163 connecting rods

    I plan on buying the kit but ifg Ican get the seals I cvan put the block in and start putting it together
    They call me ... youtube

    1979 SA 200 RED seal w/ wp26
    RealGear Mig 140
    Linde AC 250 Amp Stick
    Lincoln AC/DC 225 buzz box w/ #9 flex scratch start Smith precision tig flowmeter

  24. #24
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    Re: sa200 1979 f163 connecting rods

    So I tried hooking up the exciter, with the wiring diagram and a picture next to me but i'm still clueless. I can wire a house, business ect but i've never used a diagram for electronics like this, especailly when i don't have color coding on the wires to see whats for what. This is a pic of the wires i got. I don't know if some are wire nutted together already or what. I got 2 wires from the main generator that i know the black goes to the positive brush and the other gets connected to ?
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    They call me ... youtube

    1979 SA 200 RED seal w/ wp26
    RealGear Mig 140
    Linde AC 250 Amp Stick
    Lincoln AC/DC 225 buzz box w/ #9 flex scratch start Smith precision tig flowmeter

  25. #25
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    Re: sa200 1979 f163 connecting rods

    Did you reinstall the coils in the housing?

    Is that the black wire on the left side and solid wire on the right attached to the brush holder? If so, the coils need to be swapped around so the wire "ball" is on the bottom, black wire on the right and solid wire attached to brush holder on the left. If you just reinstalled the exciter housing with the coils already mounted, then I suspect you installed it 180 degrees out. There's a relief notch in the housing that goes up and to the left when viewed from the brush end.
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    Last edited by duaneb55; 05-29-2013 at 11:21 PM.
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