Repair - Drill Press Chuck
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  1. #1
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    Repair - Drill Press Chuck

    Repair... maybe replace? The three key holes in my 1/2 inch drill chuck are no longer round - more like ovals and the key slips out when trying to tighten or loosen the chuck.
    Name:  Drill Chuck-1.jpg
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    Should I...
    a) weld the holes closed then drill them out again,
    b) drill new holes in between the existing ones,
    c) just buy a new chuck
    d) any other suggestions
    Comments/opinions appreciated...
    Rick V

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  2. #2
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    Re: Repair - Drill Press Chuck

    Just replace it.

  3. #3
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    Re: Repair - Drill Press Chuck

    I'd try drilling 3 new holes between the 3 old ones, and then replace the chuck if it didn't work.
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  4. #4
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    Re: Repair - Drill Press Chuck

    Buy a good Jacobs chuck. Look on ebay for a match. Yours should have a JT# stamped on it. That is the stub of your drill press. I really don't think you can drill new holes in it. If it is drillable and not hardned its not worth having anyway...Bob
    Bob Wright
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  5. #5
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    Re: Repair - Drill Press Chuck

    You will have to make a wedge to drive off your old chuck off of the spindle...Bob
    Bob Wright
    Salem, Ohio Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drill
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  6. #6
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    Re: Repair - Drill Press Chuck

    It is a POS chuck made in who knows where. Replace the damn thing for cryin' out loud!

    Why would you even mess with this?
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  7. #7
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    Re: Repair - Drill Press Chuck

    I have a craftsman drill press which had a chuck very similar to yours which did the same thing. I replaced the chuck with a keyless chuck that I picked up from JTS Machinery, Works great, reasonably priced. Have one for my lathe also.

  8. #8
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    Re: Repair - Drill Press Chuck

    It sounds like the chuck is either very old or a "lot" of torque was used on the key to tighten the chuck. I always get the best results moving the the chuck key through all three holes. Tightening the chuck from a single key hole seems to bind it up and requires much more torque than using all three. Just my way but it works for me..
    MillerMatic 252, HTP 221, Powermax PM45, now all I need is a job I like

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  9. #9
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    Re: Repair - Drill Press Chuck

    If I were in a bind and needed to repair the one I had, I would clean the holes well, carefully make centering marks to show where the hole centers should be, and build up the insides with 'filled' epoxy; the kind which has small steel 'chips' or particles in it. After hardening, I would carefully re-drill the holes, using the marks to get the exact position, first using a slightly undersize bit, then opening it up to correct size last.

  10. #10
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    Re: Repair - Drill Press Chuck

    Quote Originally Posted by aametalmaster View Post
    You will have to make a wedge to drive off your old chuck off of the spindle...Bob
    Can you expand a little on what you mean here? I looked down the throat of the chuck; there is no retaining screw present. So far, I've had no luck 'hammer-tapping' the key to release the chuck.

    Quote Originally Posted by jncaruso View Post
    I have a craftsman drill press which had a chuck very similar to yours which did the same thing. I replaced the chuck with a keyless chuck that I picked up from JTS Machinery, Works great, reasonably priced. Have one for my lathe also.
    I do have a 1/2 inch keyless chuck off a battery-powered hand-held portable Milwaukee drill that burnt up... I could use that. But I'm not a fan of keyless chucks; I've had too many drills spin in those chucks.

    Quote Originally Posted by frieed View Post
    It sounds like the chuck is either very old or a "lot" of torque was used on the key to tighten the chuck. I always get the best results moving the chuck key through all three holes. Tightening the chuck from a single key hole seems to bind it up and requires much more torque than using all three. Just my way but it works for me..
    It's not that this chuck is real old (10 years at most) or had a lot of use (5 projects per year). I don't apply a lot of torque and I do go around using all three holes to tighten the chuck. Thus, it's more like the steel is just too darn soft.

    Quote Originally Posted by Oldiron2 View Post
    If I were in a bind and needed to repair the one I had, I would clean the holes well, carefully make centering marks to show where the hole centers should be, and build up the insides with 'filled' epoxy; the kind which has small steel 'chips' or particles in it. After hardening, I would carefully re-drill the holes, using the marks to get the exact position, first using a slightly undersize bit, then opening it up to correct size last.
    If you really think this would work, then it might be a simpler procedure just to partial fill each hole with the expoxy mix and then squeeze in a grease covered drill bit, wooden dowel or something of similar diameter of the key-chuck. When the epoxy hardens, just slide out the greased bit/dowel and I should be good to go - the epoxy having filled in the 'oval-ness' of the hole.
    However, I doubt that metal-filled epoxy would stand up to the side-twisting action when torquing the chuck. I expect it would just crumble within a few uses - but I have no experience with metal-filled epoxy.

    Thanks
    Rick V

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  11. #11
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    Re: Repair - Drill Press Chuck

    If you really think this would work, then it might be a simpler procedure just to partial fill each hole with the expoxy mix and then squeeze in a grease covered drill bit, wooden dowel or something of similar diameter of the key-chuck. When the epoxy hardens, just slide out the greased bit/dowel and I should be good to go - the epoxy having filled in the 'oval-ness' of the hole.
    However, I doubt that metal-filled epoxy would stand up to the side-twisting action when torquing the chuck. I expect it would just crumble within a few uses - but I have no experience with metal-filled epoxy.
    I know that it would last for quite a while; I've used the material for a long time and had good success. I even once filled the pits inside a large hydraulic cylinder with it, and never had problems with leakage or the material coming loose and clogging filters.
    The greasy dowel method would work, but wouldn't be as precise or much quicker or easier than doing it 'right'.

    Also, notice I originally said "if I were in a bind"; I too agree that a good new one is the best way to go, but this method does work for occasions when a new one might not be available.

  12. #12
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    Re: Repair - Drill Press Chuck

    Toss it and get a new one or buy a rebuilt one on ebay.

    As far as i know only cordless drills have a screw in the throat to hold the chuck on. Its pretty standard that chucks on drill presses are attached via an moorse or jacobs taper which is held in place via friction between precision machined surfaced.

    The 2 most common ways to remove chucks like this are as follows.
    1)Extend the quill all the way down and lock it in place. Then look and see if there is a hole in the side of the quill. If there is then rotate the chuck until you can see all the way through to the other side. Then insert a wedge and give it a light tap. Make sure to have a cardboard box or a towel or something under the chuck to catch it when it falls off.



    2)If there is no hole in the quill then the chuck must be removed by tapping the chuck off or using chuck removal wedges which can be ordered online. The easiest way to remove the chuck if you dont want to buy any wedges is to take a piece of wood and tap the edge of the chuck... see video below.



    Hope this helps!

  13. #13
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    Re: Repair - Drill Press Chuck

    Quote Originally Posted by ggarner View Post
    The easiest way to remove the chuck if you dont want to buy any wedges is to take a piece of wood and tap the edge of the chuck... see video below.

    Hope this helps!
    Well... that video caused me to slightly bend my quill! It is not a good idea to hit the chuck as shown in that video with the quill fully extended. (A little common sense would have saved me here... but it was a video - I just blindly followed it.)
    In my case the off-axis force was enough to cause me a problem... but I got the quill back into alignment - I just won't drill any deep holes!

    Anyway, here is what I did...
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    5 - The drill chuck removed by tapping.
    6 - The chuck held in a vice; the oval hole is visible
    7 - Using a 3/8 inch diameter drill, chamfer the original hole(s)
    8 - the chamferred hole
    Note: This steel drilled like butter; it was way too soft compared to even normal mild steel. Certainly not a hardened steel that you would expect for a chuck.


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    9 - Showing a copper-clad carbon-arc rod
    10 - Stuff the hole with the undersize carbon rod
    11- MIG weld around the carbon rod
    12 - The end result before grinding
    It don't look to pretty - that's for sure.


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    13 - After rough grinding
    14 - Removing 'opps' weld to gear ring
    15 - Removing 'opps' weld to gear ring
    16 - Filing smoother


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    17 - the carbon filled hole
    18 - drill out the carbon
    19 - final drill to key size - some chips tore out*.
    20 - the chuck back on the drill

    * Some chips tore out when drilling to key size
    Why? Poor Procedure:
    - I used one less that the max settting on my Lincoln SP-175T (maybe 120 amps?); I should have used maximum amperage.
    - I welded in starts and stops - like tacking, instead of a continuous bead.
    - Also, I didn't take the time to make fresh cut ends on the MIG wire each time I stopped welding.
    The above caused some black deposits and consequent lack of fusion.

    Anyway... the drill-press chuck works again!
    Rick V

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  14. #14
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    Re: Repair - Drill Press Chuck

    Why didn't you just buy a new chuck? If the material was too soft to start with then you still have a chuck that the 3 jaws will wear the housing and not hold a drill true.
    Russell

  15. #15
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    Re: Repair - Drill Press Chuck

    Rick, what kind of drill is it? I have an extra quill from when I rebuilt my drill just laying in the garage if it happens to be the same model. Mine is straight but the machined portion of my spindle was bent so I just got a whole new assembly.

    Its always kind of a crap shoot trying to get those damn things off.

  16. #16
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    Re: Repair - Drill Press Chuck

    Quote Originally Posted by ggarner View Post
    Rick, what kind of drill is it? I have an extra quill from when I rebuilt my drill just laying in the garage if it happens to be the same model. Mine is straight but the machined portion of my spindle was bent so I just got a whole new assembly. Its always kind of a crap shoot trying to get those damn things off.
    Jeez thanks for the offer... but not too worry. This was only an cheap 8 inch drill press (vertical height extended by me) sold by Canadian Tire on sale ~9 years ago for maybe $60. Since then I have problems with plastic guides (replaced with home-made metal), the allen key screw holding the main pully the the quill keeps coming loose, etc., etc.
    Jones6780 asked, "Why didn't you just buy a new chuck?" Hmmm, a cheap Princess Auto chuck was $15 and likely the same poor quality. A good chuck? To me, this $60 drill press didn't deserve a new anything - let alone a quality chuck. It has more value to me as a challenging project; the close-quarter's 'repair' was likely more suitable for TIG. Anyway, it is back together - another learning experience. Thanks for your inputs.
    Rick V

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  17. #17
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    Re: Repair - Drill Press Chuck

    I agree, sometimes you just need to do a project to "see" how it goes. I have learned a lot more from failures than I did successes. .02

  18. #18
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    Re: Repair - Drill Press Chuck

    If this repair ever fails get a good chuck. Your hole failed because you were having to over tighten the chuck to stop the bits from spinning.

    I had this problem I bought a good childbearing chuck. I have not had a bit slip.

    Spend the money and get a good chuck. You can take it off for your next DP and replace it with the POS.

  19. #19
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    Re: Repair - Drill Press Chuck

    they call Canadian tire crappy tire for a reason...you get a far better version of cheap Chinese crap from princess auto so you are better off not buying tools from (come on, lets all say it) crappy tire...

  20. #20
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    Re: Repair - Drill Press Chuck

    Hey there dumb-as-a-stump,
    Hmm, your CTC versus Princess Auto experience seems different from mine.
    Both sell tools manufactured in China. On a good sale, I find the Mastercraft brand sold by CTC to be of better price and better quality than tools from Princess Auto.

    I got a little upset with Princess Auto when I purchased a 2-ton scissor jack and the piece of junk collapsed lifting about 500 lbs, dropping my boat and narrowly missed crushing my leg. Poor fabrication allowed too much clearance between gears - they slipped past each other. I get pretty upset when 'safety' equipment fails - send them an email... and never heard back. (A lot they care about their customers’ safety!) I took the twisted mess back into the store - got my money back but no apology. That turned me off.

    In my opinion, Princess Auto have changed for the worse over the last couple years - prices have gone up, Italian mig wire was replaced with ChiCom wire, fewer welder related items seem to go on sale anymore - haven't seen welding consumables on sale for a long, long time.

    Used to be when the Princess Auto biweekly sale flyer came out, I would scan it immediately because I didn't want to miss out on a deal. I could always find items I wanted. That not so these days.. hard to find anything I want going on sale.
    Rick V

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  21. #21
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    Re: Repair - Drill Press Chuck

    Rick,

    Interesting repair, nice photo documentary though.

    Seems like an awful lot of work to do to fix the original cheapo chuck though. If your 'shop' time is more for fun time, then that's fine too.

    Plain ordinary drill chuck, $10. That's in US dollars though.

    http://littlemachineshop.com/product...212&category=7

    Better drill chuck, same place $30:

    http://littlemachineshop.com/product...3153&category=

    Better keyless drill chuck, same place $33:

    http://littlemachineshop.com/product...1660&category=

    disclaimer: I don't work there, I don't own stock or any part of the company, I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express, objects in mirror may be closer than they appear, flammable materials may also be inflammable, but I am a satisfied customer from LMS. They seem to have a good 'rep' and I haven't had any problems with a few small orders.
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  22. #22
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    Re: Repair - Drill Press Chuck

    Glad you got the best of it Rick V, as for;

    Some chips tore out when drilling to key size
    Why? Poor Procedure:
    - I used one less that the max settting on my Lincoln SP-175T (maybe 120 amps?); I should have used maximum amperage.
    - I welded in starts and stops - like tacking, instead of a continuous bead.
    - Also, I didn't take the time to make fresh cut ends on the MIG wire each time I stopped welding.
    The above caused some black deposits and consequent lack of fusion.
    My bet is re-sulpherized or leaded steel or even powdered metal, (still betting 11XX or 12XX though).

    Matt

  23. #23
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    Re: Repair - Drill Press Chuck

    Quote Originally Posted by MoonRise View Post
    Seems like an awful lot of work to do to fix the original cheapo chuck though. If your 'shop' time is more for fun time, then that's fine too.
    Plain ordinary drill chuck, $10. Better drill chuck $30.
    Hey MoonRise, well I actually never looked at prices much. I figured it would run about $15 - $40 here. But I had the time, so I went for the 'repair'. However, your links got me to thinking and I looked to see what 'Busy Bee Tools' had here locally.
    Name:  Drill Chuck-6.jpg
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    Now I'm not certain of the 'taper' but it seems that JT6 and JT33 are the most common. You are right; I am looking at $9 to $12 for a replacement - that can't possibly be any worse that what I had or what I have now got! Darn... guess not knowing the taper, I'll have to knock the old one off (again) and bring it along with me - that should impress them! The danger with going into a machine-shop store like that... you see so many useful things that... well it's hard to emerge under $40 - $80.
    Rick V

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  24. #24
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    Re: Repair - Drill Press Chuck

    Alright... I bought a new chuck. Cost me $22 and tax plus a 50 mile drive.
    Heres the new chuck and the original chuck. Can you guess which is which?
    Name:  Drill Chuck-7.jpg
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    I used a vernier caliper to measure the old chuck before I left and it seemed to correspond to the Jacobs Taper of JT33.
    Name:  Drill Chuck Jacobs Taper.jpg
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    Wow, I was lucky I took the old chuck with me!
    Looking in the locked glass cabinets, I could see they were all out of JT33 chucks! So I asked the saleguy, he looks at my old chuck and says, "That's not a JT33, that's stamped B16. Here's what you need - a B16 chuck." Then he proceeded to show me how the JT33 and B16 tapers, while really close, are not interchangeable; a B16 chuck on a JT33 arbour seemed snug at first but you could feel it rock around a mite. Live and learn.
    Rick V

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  25. #25
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    Re: Repair - Drill Press Chuck

    Nice catch Rick, for a little tip, the thumb at ten or two o'clock, just tighten snug working around each of the three holes (you'll feel it pull up just a bit more) and go.

    See if it works a bit better for you.

    Matt

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