Cap mod on HF 180 mig
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  1. #1

    Cap mod on HF 180 mig

    I've been searching for the last half four trying to find a how-to for doing this mod. I hate to be "that guy" but can somebody point me in the right direction?
    thanks

  2. #2
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    Re: Cap mod on HF 180 mig

    Why not buy a decent welder in the first place and save yourself the headache?
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  3. #3
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    Re: Cap mod on HF 180 mig

    Quote Originally Posted by Gamble View Post
    Why not buy a decent welder in the first place and save yourself the headache?
    + 1 on that
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  4. #4

    Re: Cap mod on HF 180 mig

    Bump
    Can anybody please answer this question?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #5
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    Re: Cap mod on HF 180 mig

    where did you learn of this in the first place?
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  6. #6
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    Re: Cap mod on HF 180 mig

    What is the model number ?

  7. #7

    Re: Cap mod on HF 180 mig

    Thank you so much for replying
    I'm new around here.
    It's the 240
    #68886


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  8. #8

    Re: Cap mod on HF 180 mig

    Quote Originally Posted by Gamble View Post
    Why not buy a decent welder in the first place and save yourself the headache?
    I presume that you put a check in the mail to Russell to cover the cost difference?

    It's clear that he'd already purchased the unit and was just looking for some help.

    Honestly unless welding is a profession, is the cap mod really worth the $500+ difference between the HFT 180A mig and the current new out the box Hobart 190?

    Russell (and anyone since it's likely that the OP is gone)

    There are verbal and picture description in threads such that this one:

    http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php...91#post2163291

    The problem is that some of the associated pictures have disappeared. In an attempt to be helpful I'm going to give a higher level description so that no matter the model you can figure it out.

    The welder is fundamentally a big adjustable power supply. From the wall input it consist of a transformer, rectifier (a group of 4 diodes that converts AC to DC), and a choke (which looks like a smaller transformer). The job of the capacitor is to smooth out the ripple, or bouncing voltage that comes from the rectifier. This image is an example:

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    The dotted curves is the welder out the box. The solid lines on top is the output with the capacitor.

    The capacitor needs to be inserted after the rectifier. The wire from the wall will connect to one set of terminals on the big transformer. The other set of terminals goes to the rectifier diodes. The output from the diodes connects to the welding wires (with the choke possibly in the middle).

    All you need to do is to connect the capacitor to the output of the rectifier. Note that if you use a switch, then you can switch the capacitor in and out of the circuit.

    One final item. The capacitor will keep the voltage high if it is installed by itself. Dangerous because it keeps the leads of the welder hot. A bleeder resistor is tied across the cap to lower the voltage when the trigger is not on. The thread above suggested a 50 ohm 25 watt resistor.

    My final plea is that when someone asks how to do something, since they have already decided that it's worth doing, only answer if you are going to tell them how to do it. Then and only then is arguing whether or not it is worth doing can be debated.

    ga2500ev

  9. #9

    Re: Cap mod on HF 180 mig

    Thank you
    Thank you
    Thank you

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