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  1. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    484

    Re: Size and type of stick

    6013 looks great on AC and it's easy to run makes decent strength welds. 6011 looks ugly but it burns trough rust and oil and make decent strength welds. I made these welds with 1/16" 6013 on DC. But you should have good results on AC. I would use a 3/32" 6013 Lincoln or Hobart.The 1/16" rods are very flimsy and hard to weld with. The 3/32" is stiff enough and wont blow trough 1/8" wall as easy a 6011.

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    I would use a 3/16" for all of it. It's not that much more expensive and it won't rust out as fast. It's also a lot stronger. 1/8" is strong enough but it will flex a lot more than 3/16". How far apart are you connecting legs? The part that go's from the handrail to the flat plate.
    Last edited by 69sa200; 01-10-2017 at 10:37 PM.

  2. #27
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    2,490

    Re: Size and type of stick

    Guys, I've got one other question on my railing project. What thickness mild steel plate should I use to weld to the sides of the square tubing so that I can bolt the tubing to my wooden stringers? Should I use the same thickness plate that the wall thickness will be on the square tubing? Thanks.
    Me personally I would go with something thicker, like 1/4 inch or 3/8ths. The shape of the tubing adds strength so the plates you use need to be stronger than the wall thickness would suggest. You should have no problem welding square tube to the plate. use the same rod and settings. Again, practice and test before you rely on it.
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  3. #28
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    2,951

    Re: Size and type of stick

    Ultimately it depends on how strong your stringer is with a 3 ft lever attached.... Design of the whole run would dictate attachment to the stringer. In 12 ft, how many times will you attach to the wood stringer? We really need more info.?

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    28

    Re: Size and type of stick

    Again, thanks for the replies. I hadn't thought about the shape of the tubing adding strength to the plates, thanks for that. In 12 ft. I'll attach the verticals 4 places, one at the bottom, one at the top, and two spaced equally in between. I'd rather have too many, than too few. I'm going to use 2 by blocking in between the stringers, that will help with flexing from the lever action on the handrails. Also, keep in mind that this railing is primarily for two old folks who are not rambunctious!! It is not for public use, and is miles from any public area.

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    2,490

    Re: Size and type of stick

    Also, keep in mind that this railing is primarily for two old folks
    Granted but speaking as a retired paramedic, old folks tend to fall a lot, and may need the had rail to support the shock forces of a falling person, which is probably more than just body weight. I however, am not a retired engineer, so consult a suitable professional on that topic. My point being I would make it suitably strong. I think if you practice, do some testing on your welds and run the design by a pro, I think you will be more than fine. it would probably be good if you could put up a sketch of what you are building here on this forum. There are plenty of people who could tell you if it is a good design or not.
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  6. #31
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Bemidji MN
    Posts
    12,814

    Re: Size and type of stick

    Quote Originally Posted by drapd View Post
    Again, thanks for the replies. I hadn't thought about the shape of the tubing adding strength to the plates, thanks for that. In 12 ft. I'll attach the verticals 4 places, one at the bottom, one at the top, and two spaced equally in between. I'd rather have too many, than too few. I'm going to use 2 by blocking in between the stringers, that will help with flexing from the lever action on the handrails. Also, keep in mind that this railing is primarily for two old folks who are not rambunctious!! It is not for public use, and is miles from any public area.
    The blocking is a great plan and works very well to stop the stringer from twisting.

    If I may, I would suggest that you plan your top rail based on how easy it is to grip for you two.
    If it's too big, or a difficult shape to wrap your hand around, it will be hard to use to save you from a fall.

    Some people use a large top rail, then add the hand rail portion inside at an appropriate height.
    Dave J.

    Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~

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  7. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Sparks, NV
    Posts
    3,443

    Re: Size and type of stick

    I saw this hand rail recently and liked it. I took pics in case I needed to borrow the design someday. I have most of the material laying around already. It looks like 1/4" platen x 2" (didnt measure) with solid bar (looks like concrete form stakes). The solid bar is welded to platen (7018 is my guess). The solid bar is drilled and tapped to hold the wooden rail. I think the wooden rail is teak. Looks like a really simple but classy design IMO.
    drapd, I suggest using the rod that works best for you.
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  8. #33
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    484

    Re: Size and type of stick

    Looks like 1/2" x 2" flat stock to me.

  9. #34
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    28

    Re: Size and type of stick

    Louie1961, Thanks for the info, yes, I believe that I am overbuilding it. However, that is what I was taught many years ago by a master carpenter, and it has served me well. I would much rather it be too strong, than too weak. I can't post a sketch because I am computer and hi tech challenged!! MinnesotaDave, Thanks for the info on griping it, I have already had my wife do that with 1" square and 1 1/4" square tube, she liked the 1 1/4" the best. Insaneride, That is a beautiful set of railings, it took a lot of thought to make it look and work well. However, I'm trying to make my railings blend in with the old fashioned weathered pine siding on my existing barn. It will still stand out, but, I want it to hide as best as I can, but, still be functional and safe.

  10. #35
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Sparks, NV
    Posts
    3,443

    Re: Size and type of stick

    Quote Originally Posted by 69sa200 View Post
    Looks like 1/2" x 2" flat stock to me.
    I think your rite. This was a remodel and the chick took out 4 x 20 feet of garage to make her closet bigger

    The inside rails were pretty cool also.
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  11. #36
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Manitoba Canada
    Posts
    1,611

    Re: Size and type of stick

    She cut into garage space just to make her house bigger?? Sacrilege I say! You may think you're building for 2 retired people so it doesn't need to be strong, but my experience is that older people tend to attract grandchildren or neighbors with grandchildren. Build it to last.
    F-225 amp Forney AC Stick
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  12. #37
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Sparks, NV
    Posts
    3,443

    Re: Size and type of stick

    She had it built to the hilt. The slab was cut up and new footings poured and slab re poured. She didnt blink at the bill from the GC or me. Before I got there, the kitchen was gutted and was already new with new appliances but she wanted newer. Money to burn.
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  13. #38
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Posts
    144

    Re: Size and type of stick

    I would use 3/32" e7014 for welding rod and use 3/16" plate.

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