Cold saw blades? - Page 2
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  1. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    10

    Re: Cold saw blades?

    I have the a rage 2 with the blue steel blade. Works awesome. See if you can use that one in ur saw


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  2. #27
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    1,725

    Re: Cold saw blades?

    For the sake of asking again, not to hijack the thread but

    For a DRY SAW, what kind of blade life can be expected between sharpenings cutting 11g tube and 1/4" flat bar?

    I have a 7x12 bandsaw already and the blade life obviously is unbeatable but time is money... granted I usually do other work while it cuts, but when you're cutting thinner materials it basically lops it off by the time you can start other work.
    www.FirehouseFabricators.com



    Lincoln 210mp
    Lincoln SW200

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Central MN
    Posts
    30

    Re: Cold saw blades?

    Pretty sure you didn't pizz anybody off. OP was just axkin bout saw blades, not definitions.....
    Miller 211
    Everlast 164si

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    St. John's, Newfoundland, Canada
    Posts
    632

    Re: Cold saw blades?

    Quote Originally Posted by BrooklynBravest View Post
    For the sake of asking again, not to hijack the thread but

    For a DRY SAW, what kind of blade life can be expected between sharpenings cutting 11g tube and 1/4" flat bar?

    I have a 7x12 bandsaw already and the blade life obviously is unbeatable but time is money... granted I usually do other work while it cuts, but when you're cutting thinner materials it basically lops it off by the time you can start other work.
    I cant tell you how much cutting I have done exactly with my Evolution 14 inch dry cut (haven't kept track since purchasing it). But I can say it is for sure better than an abrasive. I have cut 3/8"x6" and 1/2'x6 inch no problem. I don't baby this thing. I knocked the first carbide tip off by starting the saw and not having it all the way up to speed before putting it into steel. Then just a couple of days ago I knocked 3 more off (all next to each other on the blade). The piece of steel I was cutting got loose, I didn't have it clamped tight enough... OOPS ! Anyhow even though the saw has 4 teeth knocked off it will still slice through 1/2"x6" flat bar no problem. The saw does now leave a little burr though. My blade would be in much better shape only for operator error on my part, I figure I will get much more time out of my next blade. I have two more Evolution blades and 2 Milwaukee blades so I should be good for a while. I hope the Milwaukee blades are as good as the Evolution.
    Journeyman / Red Seal Welder (What a useless test)
    Miller CST 280
    Miller XMT 350
    Miller 12vs Xtreme
    Evolution Evo 28 mag drill
    Evolution 380 Dry Cut saw

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Sedona, Arizona
    Posts
    1,005

    Re: Cold saw blades?

    On my 14" carbide tipped dry cut saw, cutting 2x2" tubing sucked because the blade first made contact with the steel in the flat part of the tubing. That is what dulls blades quickly. Ideally, the saw blade first hits the steel out on the outside corner. The saw really liked 1.5" square tube or smaller.

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    1,725

    Re: Cold saw blades?

    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmy_pop View Post
    On my 14" carbide tipped dry cut saw, cutting 2x2" tubing sucked because the blade first made contact with the steel in the flat part of the tubing. That is what dulls blades quickly. Ideally, the saw blade first hits the steel out on the outside corner. The saw really liked 1.5" square tube or smaller.
    Does it help to put the piece on edge?

    1.5" is my main item I cut along with 2" flat. Which would obviously give me the same issue as you have.
    www.FirehouseFabricators.com



    Lincoln 210mp
    Lincoln SW200

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Not there
    Posts
    968

    Re: Cold saw blades?

    Using the Morse V-block setup in my Makita 12" I can get about 3000 cuts on 3/4"_ to 2 1/2" tubing from 14 ga to 1/8" wall.
    These other companies make their money on blades.The saw is "free". That's why they don't offer a V block.Morse does because...well.....Morse is Morse ( yeah-I'm a fanboy). Best of the best in my book.

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    5,181

    Re: Cold saw blades?

    Quote Originally Posted by BrooklynBravest View Post
    Does it help to put the piece on edge?

    1.5" is my main item I cut along with 2" flat. Which would obviously give me the same issue as you have.
    Yes it will help a lot but u can't cut Angles cut just straight. Like jimmy said when u cut on the flat it kills the blade. I could tell the myself right away. Some don't think a big flat is bad for blade but on a cold saw I no that's not true. Best to put ur 1/4" flat bar so ur cutting it the skinny way. And it will cut like butter.

  9. #34
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    21

    Re: Cold saw blades?

    Guys when I started this thread I said I cut Alum most of the time. But I cut steel also. This Evolution saw has been used for both steel & Alum.
    The blade is what came with the saw & is a mutable blade for both. The alum I cut is 2inch 6061 t6 bar stock & heavy wall tube. I thought about buying there blade for just
    alum & having another for steel. But I think I will stick with this one. It seems no one here has ever try there alum blade. But being a retired tool & die maker
    they did not make these dry cold cut chop saws in my day that I ever saw. This thing is fast, the metal does not heat up & leaves no burrs.

    But I can see "most" here, not all have never used one of these saws . Thanks for the replys.

    Fly
    .
    Last edited by Fly; 05-19-2017 at 07:01 PM.

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