Linde Union Carbide HDA-300 HF & PP timer issues
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    North central Indiana
    Posts
    2

    Linde Union Carbide HDA-300 HF & PP timer issues

    Got an oldie but a goodie here with a couple of issues that I’m hoping someone here can help with. The main trouble is with the HF or lack thereof. I can scratch start steel with no problem, but of course aluminum is off the table. I do have spark across the spark gap, and the gap is adjusted correctly. I have removed, disassembled, and thoroughly cleaned both the Shift and Intensity rheostats and they test fine now. I have tested the air gap inductor for both continuity and shorts and it is fine. I even took apart the connections cleaned them and replaced the hardware with new at both rheostats and the inductor. I have removed both the .002 mfd HV bypass and oscillator caps and cleaned all the years of collected schmoo off of them. I have not been able to come up with a way to easily test them, but I see no physical damage. The only other thing in the HF circuit is the HV transformer, and since I have a nice blue spark,across both the spark gaps, I’m assuming for now that it is okay. So far I have not found an easy test to see if I am getting HF to the inductor. This is such a simple circuit that I can’t understand why it’s not working. Any thoughts would be much appreciated! Really love this behemoth and I’m hoping someone here has some experience with these machines and can help me. Thanks! BTW, the Post Purge timer issue is that it sometimes doesn’t start and turn on the gas when I first hit the pedal, but if I hit it a second time it normally starts and I get gas flow. Don’t know if it’s in the timer itself, or a relay that controls the timer. I can deal with that for now, but the HF is the main thing bugging me right now.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    North central Indiana
    Posts
    2

    Re: Linde Union Carbide HDA-300 HF & PP timer issues

    Just an update on my HF problem. I tried swapping around the bypass and oscillator caps in case one of them was bad, but saw no change. Since I have no way to test the output of the HV transformer, I decided to test the primary voltage to it. While pressing the foot pedal I read 130 vac. Assuming a nominal input of 120vac, it appears that I have good voltage into the circuit. The only other part I was able to test was a 10 mfd cap that the schematic shows as “cleaning unit”. I have a Cappy tester that is normally used for testing start and run capacitors for motors. It has a range that can test 10 mfd, so I tried it. At first it tested okay, but then I started to see it not reading properly. I ordered a new one and replaced it just in case. Still no change. Yes, I did test the bleed resistor as well. So, I seem to have ran out of things I can test. Since I have not found anything internal to the machine that can cause this problem, I have to wonder if there is something external. Maybe with my torch or ground cable. I am running a standard 20 size flex head water cooled torch. Any suggestions would be much appreciated! I’m getting more than a little frustrated at this point.....

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