Helmets: 1/1/1/1 vs 1/1/1/2 - Page 2
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  1. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    22

    Re: Helmets: 1/1/1/1 vs 1/1/1/2

    I've used the Harbor Freight and Menards Auto Darkening helments and they work OK. I had a problem with them not switching right away when TIG welding and making my eyes see red with the helmet off after MIG welding for quite awhile (bumped the sense knob). I got a 3350 4C now and I wished I had bought one many years ago! Spend the money on good equipment.

  2. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    texas
    Posts
    140

    Re: Helmets: 1/1/1/1 vs 1/1/1/2

    I have an older Miller AD hood and just recently decided I'd buy a cheapie to leave at work. About the time I made that decision, Tractor Supply had some "metal man" AD hoods on sale for $40 or so. I bought one. I've used the Miller once since then, and only because the batteries(original) in the cheap hood were dead. I only have two complaints with the cheap hood. One, it uses two oddball coin cell batteries and two, it seems like it has to "charge" after it's been sitting a day or two. After that initial arc strike, everything is perfect. I haven't had a chance to use it since putting in the new batteries, so that might have solved the issue.

  3. #28

    Re: Helmets: 1/1/1/1 vs 1/1/1/2

    Quote Originally Posted by INXS2 View Post
    I've used the Harbor Freight and Menards Auto Darkening helments and they work OK. I had a problem with them not switching right away when TIG welding and making my eyes see red with the helmet off after MIG welding for quite awhile (bumped the sense knob). I got a 3350 4C now and I wished I had bought one many years ago! Spend the money on good equipment.
    There's definitely some HF hoods that work well with TIG and others that do not. A buddy of mine has an older black one that didn't switch on quickly enough, and I've got one that is black with blue flame graphics that works like a champ with TIG - never once been flashed with it on my TIG setup. It's been a solid helmet for the two years I've owned it and using it on average 1-2 times per week. (Not a full-time welder, obviously).

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    texas
    Posts
    140

    Re: Helmets: 1/1/1/1 vs 1/1/1/2

    Apparently the batteries were the problem with the Tractor Supply hood. Used it today after putting new batteries in and it is perfect.

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Central USA
    Posts
    111

    Re: Helmets: 1/1/1/1 vs 1/1/1/2

    I love my 3350 4C too. With cataracts it is especially helpfull. Worth the bucks. The headgear is awesome also. Everyone who has tried my helmet has had one word for it.WoW!

    Disclaimer: I am retired and no longer make a living melting metal. My opinion is all I give. Your results may vary.

    Roy

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    3,668

    Re: Helmets: 1/1/1/1 vs 1/1/1/2

    Quote Originally Posted by Bonzoo View Post
    2 x 1/4 or less. Clean and quick but it really should be supported and clamped on the feed side to avoud a dog ear ( somewhat)
    So that must be what I'm doing wrong with the Woodward Fab Sheer for sheet and round bar. Any time I sheer 1/4" round it bends the material on the left side non sliding side of the sheer.
    '65 Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DC
    L-tec PCM-VPi 40A plasma
    ESAB REBEL EMP 215ic
    ESAB Mig Master 250
    Victor Performer O/A

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    52

    Re: Helmets: 1/1/1/1 vs 1/1/1/2

    Quote Originally Posted by Kelvin View Post
    Before you say "Give me a brake" regarding using a non-autodark shield, have you ever tried one?
    Yes of course, both handheld and the head ones. I'd still take my current Harbor Freight "Blue flames"

    So do yourself a favor and before you drop even $90 on an autodark, at least TRY a $40 non-autodark. The difference to me is like night and day.
    Thanks for your opinion!

    Also -- whatever shield you buy, be sure you can get replacement headgear for a decent price for it. For a long time I swore by the ChiCom $50 Northern Tool autodark shield, until one day the headgear broke, and I found out "you can't get there from here" if you want new headgear. For my Jackson non-autodark shield, I can get new headgear for it all day long for $15 -- and it's NICE headgear.
    Is this really a problem - as others have pointed out on this thread, you do not have to buy the same brand headgear, in fact some advice to get a high end headgear from another brand to replace the cheap one

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    1,584

    Re: Helmets: 1/1/1/1 vs 1/1/1/2

    Quote Originally Posted by manoweb View Post
    Is this really a problem - as others have pointed out on this thread, you do not have to buy the same brand headgear, in fact some advice to get a high end headgear from another brand to replace the cheap one
    I suppose you could do this if different manufacturers standardized how their headgear is attached to their shields, but in my experience, there is no such standardization – particularly with the cheapo Chicom shields.

    Yes, I know one could get out a drill and pop rivets and sheet metal screws and duct tape and a hot glue gun and epoxy and fishing line, and adapt/replace the headgear that way, but I would prefer not to go this route.
    Last edited by Kelvin; 05-15-2018 at 08:16 PM.

  9. #34
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Western Washington
    Posts
    248

    Re: Helmets: 1/1/1/1 vs 1/1/1/2

    Ok, I ordered one of those strikers from HTP can't wait to try it!!!

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