Riveter?
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Thread: Riveter?

  1. #1
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    Riveter?

    I have a couple cheap imports but I'd like to get a better quality one. I see the Marsons are all made in Taiwan now, I can get a US made Malco 2IN1 hand riveter for about $80. Amazon also has some Pneumatic riveters (Astro and ATD) for about the same price as the Malco hand riveter and the reviews are great but I doubt they are US made.

    Will be used lightly and occasionally on sheet metal projects. Any suggestions/experience appreciated.
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  2. #2
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    Re: Riveter?

    I have a made in Taiwan pneumatic riveter that I bought about 5 years ago off CL for $15. No idea of the brand. It was likely from HF or similar. I needed one in a pinch and it was closer than driving all the way to town. I've burned through thousands of stainless and steel rivets without any complaint. If your working in the shop or have air, I'd definitely suggest a pneumatic one. The robotics team bought a similar one from HF last year for $40 and it works well. That said, I definitely wouldn't suggest any hand rivet tool from HF. All the import ones are junk. I do have a nice made in the US hand tool that has worked well for years but it's a workout doing stainless steel rivets by hand.
    Last edited by forhire; 10-12-2017 at 12:16 AM.

  3. #3
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    Re: Riveter?

    See if Dotmatrix is on, she has used lots of riveters and might have an opinion?

  4. #4
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    Re: Riveter?

    What size rivets? I got a toolshop bolt cutter style riveter from menards that I like. Got it for 3/16" and 1/4" rivets. Biggest thing is to make sure they are adjusted right.
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  5. #5
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    Re: Riveter?

    I have a Malco hand rivet pull. I think it’s about 35 years old.

    My pneumatic rivet pulls were either DOTCO or ARO from Boeing surplus before they closed. They had specialized pullers for Cherry rivet fasteners. I know a couple of guys building Hientz CH 2000 kits and they are using HF units to pull 1/8 mandrel Aviex rivets (commercial grade of the Cherry Max). So far they say they are holding up well after 3000+ pulls each. No doubt they will be trashed after the planes are flying with 5000 rivet pulls each. Cherrry max pulls a lot harder than hardware store “pop” rivets.

    Whatever you end up with keep em clean and adjusted. If they slip on a pull mandrel the fillings fill in the grip teeth in the jaws and the problem gets worse. Sometimes you can revive a slipping pull by taking it apart and cleaning the jaw serrations.
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  6. #6
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    Re: Riveter?

    I have a bunch of riveting and punching tools here. I have no idea what brand it is but it looks the same as the ones I see searching air riveter and I got it in the 80's and it still works excellent. Hand riveters anything 1/8" or smaller and anything larger than 3/16" I use a large manual, straight type, similar to bolt cutters. Everything else ( most of what we use ) the pneumatic gets the work

  7. #7
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    Re: Riveter?

    Too bad you are not on the east coast, I'd like to find a new home for this one.
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  8. #8
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    Re: Riveter?

    Quote Originally Posted by ndnchf View Post
    Too bad you are not on the east coast, I'd like to find a new home for this one.
    Long time since I’ve seen one of those. It is a counter bore/rivet set for clutch and brake linings. The electric motor should have a counter bore cutter with a depth stop for cutting the pockets for the rivet and then you set the rivets using the foot operated squeeze. The rivets were a hollow shank brass rivet for obvious wear reasons.
    Roger
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  9. #9
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    Re: Riveter?

    bigb,

    I picked up these in an auction a while ago. The two Marsons were made in the USA. I don't have the adapters for one of them and haven't tested them. The blue Gesipa is made in Germany. If are interested in them I can test them. Make me an offer if you are interested.

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  10. #10
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    Re: Riveter?

    Thanks for all the suggestions, I do believe I will go with pneumatic. Some upcoming projects will include my 13 year old grandson making his Christmas gifts and I think he will really like using a "power tool". I am trying to keep things interesting for him, he doesn't get any other exposure to the blue collar world and I want him to have that opportunity that we had when trade classes were offered in public schools. Here he is working on a fiddle head fern at last weekends open forge here in Tucson.
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  11. #11
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    Re: Riveter?

    Quote Originally Posted by Rog02 View Post
    Long time since I’ve seen one of those. It is a counter bore/rivet set for clutch and brake linings. The electric motor should have a counter bore cutter with a depth stop for cutting the pockets for the rivet and then you set the rivets using the foot operated squeeze. The rivets were a hollow shank brass rivet for obvious wear reasons.
    Yes, that's correct. It's a great tool, I just don't use it much. Here is the other side.
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  12. #12
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    Re: Riveter?

    I have the speedaire pneumatic from Grainger, PN 3CRH4. I caught some computer screwup and bought it for $26.
    I've put 4000 to 5000 1/8" steel rivets through it, and it still works like new.
    Zoro has these for $110. If I broke this one, I'd have no problems paying the $110 for another one.
    I'm sure "speedaire" is a rebrand of something else. You might find it cheaper in the original brand.

    Edit: Grainger's website shows it to be made in Taiwan

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  13. #13
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    Re: Riveter?

    My uncle worked for United Shoe Machine Company in the sixties. They invented Pop Rivets. My father received a set many years ago, all 1/8".
    We used to ride Arctic Cat snowmobiles. In the sixties, and seventies. Those used 11? 1/4" rivets per cleat. A hard rider would break 30 cleats a winter. We used an air chisel to remove the stainless rivets, and installed new with a Polecat Riveter. I still use mine, it's 47 years old.
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  14. #14
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    Re: Riveter?

    Quote Originally Posted by Willie B View Post
    My uncle worked for United Shoe Machine Company in the sixties. They invented Pop Rivets. My father received a set many years ago, all 1/8".
    We used to ride Arctic Cat snowmobiles. In the sixties, and seventies. Those used 11? 1/4" rivets per cleat. A hard rider would break 30 cleats a winter. We used an air chisel to remove the stainless rivets, and installed new with a Polecat Riveter. I still use mine, it's 47 years old.
    We used to ride cats too. Back in the day before the initial close they were without a doubt the fastest sleds around. A friend of mines Dad amassed a collection of 440Z's before he died. Last I saw he had a half dozen or so. I had a 440 el tigre 6000 with a Comet 102C, A1 weights etc. Fast machine. It held its own until the Wildcats and Mach1's arrived. I rebuilt it so many times though ha

    So I completely understand your cleat replacement talk. IIRC the last cleat sled we had was a 5000 el tigre. We replaced them with hammer rivets and they did not break after that. Also a good sled in its time. The only real threat we had was the Mercs, so I bought one of those too ha. TT 440, one I wish I still had now in fact.

  15. #15
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    Re: Riveter?

    The tool with the knob on top is for setting threaded inserts not for pop rivets. It came with several different size arbors for different size threaded inserts. Very handy tool and very well made. The other two have the different size adapters for rivets on the handles. Very well made tools.

  16. #16
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    Re: Riveter?

    I had a 1972 EXT Next year they sold an unchanged sled as an El Tigre. You couldn't buy a new EXT unless you were sanctioned as an Arctic Cat racer. Mine was bought a year old from a racer. It had been heavily modified, .020 removed from bottom of cylinders, .020 from top. Very high compression, but it would overheat in a mile with free air cooling. I averaged ten miles between engine rebuilds. I still hate that sled! Identical El Tigres from 1973 were good for 10,000 miles.

    I live on the edge of 200,000 acres of National Forest, next town boasts 70 farms, 67 out of business.
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