Sand Blast cabinet

[Divine_Equipment]

Originally Posted by kolot

I have to admit I was worried and at least wondering how the media will slide. Learning curve on the first one out. I think a lot of my blasting will be from the pressure pot with the cabinet just containing. I will move on to the syphon later. If I put enough medial in the cabinet it shouldn't be a problem. I do have and air dryer so keeping the air and medial dry should help. Won't know for sure till I start blasting.
Nice job on your cabinet by the way, looks factory or better. How big are the glove holes, they look big in the picture?
What did you use for the bottom of the hopper as far as a trap door to let the sand out?

I built a sifting barrel for my media, I built a plate to cover the hole to keep media in. I was able to put the plate on the inside to keep the media from falling out and I had a lever on the outside to open and close the slide. Works great for filling 5 gallon pails to refill the hopper. With your unit I would build something that you can close quick, an external slide plate would probably work if you can create a fairly snug seal. Mine is loose, I keep a pail under it all the time but its in the blast room anyway so if I loose a little it makes no difference.

[irish fixit]

Originally Posted by kolot

I have to admit I was worried and at least wondering how the media will slide. Learning curve on the first one out. I think a lot of my blasting will be from the pressure pot with the cabinet just containing. I will move on to the syphon later. If I put enough medial in the cabinet it shouldn't be a problem. I do have and air dryer so keeping the air and medial dry should help. Won't know for sure till I start blasting.
Nice job on your cabinet by the way, looks factory or better. How big are the glove holes, they look big in the picture?
What did you use for the bottom of the hopper as far as a trap door to let the sand out?

From experience trying to dump loads out of grain trucks I was afraid mine wouldn't have enough slope. But I was limited by the material I had on hand at the time (It wasn't wide enough to make them steeper). We ran with extra media for a long time but it would build up by the doors and come out when open. Eventually my patients gave out and I rigged the vibrator. I then had to redo it after it started vibrating itself loose.

My air is very dry most of the time with only slight moisture during super humid times. I've never gotten any significant amount of water out of any of my traps or even the compressor tank (to much to explain now but a pic of my compressor is on my web site).

I forget the glove hole size but they are from the TP tools kit. My first had home made gloves and I used coffee cans for the ports. Those where way to small.

Thanks. The cabinet was easy with a brake. I used 14ga for the main body. The hopper at the bottom is 20ga galv from standing seam building sheets (what my shop is made from, a old Chevron station building that was shipped as a kit).

I used the TP tools door method on mine. It's just a piece of the 20ga with a piece of conveyor belting on top. There's a spring inside that pulls it closed, standard hardware store hinges on the back. I added the cam locks like I used on the doors to it because it didn't seal as well as I liked with just the spring.

[kolot]

More pictures, Like ZZ Top said, " She's Got Legs" Lot's of rain over last 2 days and garage is pretty crowded right now so not much room to work. Picture makes it look crooked as drive way is sloped but it is actually quite straight and level
Legs will get a tube welded between them, short dimension, so it can be picked with forklift, It is getting heavy quickly.


tacking up the legs


If it doesn't work out may make a big mailbox out of it, would definately handle those UPS packages.

Now on to the door, trick is to keep the opening as big as possible. Mine as well allow as big a piece as possible to fit. Rough dimensions right now are 27" wide and about 40" tall without counting the dip in the hopper.

[kolot]

Well the cabinet is beginning to take shape, squared off the end with 1 1/4 X 1/8 angle
Then to save material re used the cut out oval piece, squared it off, will gasket for a sand tight fit later.


Door frame is 1/2" bigger around perimeter for clearance and to get gaskets in later, here it is clamped in place with spacers until hinge is made and mounted.

[cd19]

Good luck on your build, I built myself one several years ago, I wanted top opening but still to look similar to a scat blast. I used all new sheet to build it, by the time it was said and done I would have been cheaper off to buy one on sale from tp with the vacuum already with it, I never saw that coming until I added my receipts.

[kolot]

Had a lot of different and alloborate ideas for hinges, in the end went with what I had on hand to keep the cost down and time is also starting to add up on this. Hinges are simple, maybe even primitive, however I was very pleased with how they ended up swinging all said and done and the fit of the door on the frame is also very good so I am happy , will just have to figure out what I will use for gasket material, TP tools has a few different sizes to choos from as well as other sources.
The pressed and formed end of the tank is not even across the front and with the way I cut the seem this is how I came up with a flat surface to start the hinge work

Primitive hinge and had bolt on hand for pins so thats what i used for today to get the door hung



Will cut away the corners of the flat stocks that form the hinges and round out the corners tomorrow.
Next will cut the window and square out the opening, will have to form some angles in my little brake for this and then decide on a window size. Also will cut holes for the glove flanges, looks like I will need 7 1/2 " holes. Will have to try out my new to me home made circle cutters, not ready to spring those on you yet as I am not quite sure how to explain how they will work. My own design and you may want to steal it if you like. Probably will have to do a Thread on those alone. LOL

[kolot]

Originally Posted by cd19

Good luck on your build, I built myself one several years ago, I wanted top opening but still to look similar to a scat blast. I used all new sheet to build it, by the time it was said and done I would have been cheaper off to buy one on sale from tp with the vacuum already with it, I never saw that coming until I added my receipts.

Yes! but I did have the tank for free, and a lot of the material is surplus from other jobs, however the time is more than I expected. I looked in the TP catalog and a comparable size cabinet is $1400 with a vacum. I think I will spend less than half of that to get up and running, and doing it this way I can add/ spend a little at a time, over time. Some don't like heavy but in the end I will have a much heavier duty unit that will take some abuse. Kind of fun for a first time sand blast cabinet and always wanted one. Don't think anyone will be coming to buy it for big money, but if it works in the end I have unlimited use for it for the time being. LOL
On a side note in my Post #31 picture 1 in the bottom left corner is a Honda 1400 watt generator I picked up on CL last week 2 miles from my house not running. Cleaned the carb started right up but no power. #1 Son opened it up, started probing with the ohm meter and found bad rotor. Broken wire where PO tried to bang the rotor off presumably to change cover gasket or crank seal (permatex trail) Son says broken wire , what do we do now, I said solder a wire bridge in it , He does and says ohm OK, no open. Yeah! I said epoxy $hit out of it and leave over night. Start up and Voila! all volts and amps check out, also battery charger. $60 bucks for good generator. Son learned something Yeah! LOL

[Stampeder]

Kolot:

I'm interested in your thin kerf tip. It looks like you have a Smith cutting torch in the pix's?
Mine is a Smith and I'd like to find out the part number if you know it for the two hole tip?

Nice job on the build.

Cheers.
Glenn.

[kolot]

It's late but i wil try to get the number of the tip and post up tomorrow, will also shoot you a PM. Be prepared for the guy at the local welding supply to not know about them. and I think they are pricey but it sure cuts nice. I can do ok with it up to probably 5/8 maybe a little more. preheat is the worst, once your off and cutting slow and steady.

[Bgbkwndo]

[ Sorry , no big fancy plasma yet, someday. Just the good old torch with a 2 jet tip for plate and sheet metal. If you don't have one of these you are missing out, very thin kerf when you cut, low heat, and is stingy on the gas as well.
Attachment 151251
These tips are getting hard to find and cost almost 50 bucks but I can cut 18 guage the same as you see here and probably a little thinner. Also to give you and idea of how little heat you put into the metal I can run down the straight edge, unclamp it and bare hand it to the next spot I need to cut.[/QUOTE]

I've used this style of tip for more years than I'd care to admit to, and have had great results with them. It's surprising how fast you can travel using this tip, and as stated, heat input is minimal.

Bgbkwndo.

[kolot]

Originally Posted by Stampeder

Kolot:

I'm interested in your thin kerf tip. It looks like you have a Smith cutting torch in the pix's?
Mine is a Smith and I'd like to find out the part number if you know it for the two hole tip?

Nice job on the build.

Cheers.
Glenn.

So here is the tip with some more pictures, Correct I am using a Smith torch. Smith Tip # SC17-0 [ATTACH][ATTACH][ATTACH][/ATTACH][/ATTACH][/ATTACH]
And if you need to bevel a plate edge this will work well for that also. Like snake oil , it cures everything.

[Stampeder]

Thanks that's great. So you just turn the step in the tip away from you and drag it towards you to cut? Have it touching the sheet metal surface?

I don't have a plasma and with this tip I may not need one for the things I'm doing. Can you use a wooden template next to it on top of the sheet metal? I have a grapple I'm making and the template for the hooks are made out of hardboard.

Thanks again for the additional photos.

Got to go find one of these for less than $50 if possible.

Glenn.

[camarotech]

Here you go. http://www.weldfabulous.com/p-22078-...es-sc17-0.aspx

[kolot]

Originally Posted by Stampeder

Thanks that's great. So you just turn the step in the tip away from you and drag it towards you to cut? Have it touching the sheet metal surface?

I don't have a plasma and with this tip I may not need one for the things I'm doing. Can you use a wooden template next to it on top of the sheet metal? I have a grapple I'm making and the template for the hooks are made out of hardboard.

Thanks again for the additional photos.

Got to go find one of these for less than $50 if possible.

Glenn.

How thick is the material for the hooks?

[dbotos]

kolot,

Looking good! I may have to make a better bottom funnel for mine like you did. I've just got an old drum funnel welded in the center of mine right now (goes from 12" or so down to 2"). I've been doing a little overhauling on mine lately and just finished the new light window tonight. Might be a little hard to see under the crazy glow, but there's a 47" x 8" sheet of plexiglas bolted to a flange made up of 1x1x1/8" angle, 1x1/8" flat stock, and some plasma-CNC'ed 1/8" sheet (the flange basically adapts the curved surface of the tank to something flat for the plexiglas to bolt to). There's an M6 screw about every 4 inches all the way around the flange. Had to space the light mounts out too, so I used some Frankenstein 1/4-20 threaded studs with a couple nuts stacked up on each outside of the tank. Next will be rolling some 1x1/8 flat stock to make better glove portals...

[kolot]

Well here's and update on the Sandblast cabinet. Got a lot of the parts from TP Tools, easy to order and fast delivery. First is the inside Coupling welded through cabinet and air T will supply the sandblast gun and an air spray gun for cleaning off the sand on parts while still inside.Siphon tube is in place.


here are a couple of the outside, hand holes were cut with my torch and my newly made circle cutter, it worked well and I will post a quick build on that if your interested. flanges and window flange are from TP tools.


This is a shot of how I laid the rectangular frame into the rounded portion of the tank. Window frame is roughly 12x 33. Unit is all different primer to keep from rusting time being. later I will strip all the parts out and give it a paint job as it will likely find it's home outside my garage but under a large overhang. Should do just fine.
OK , I'm taking a poll, put it on casters or not?

[Drf255]

Kolot, what a great job. Looks professional. Thanks for sharing it.

[roadkillbobb]

wow, dam nice looking, absolutley put on casters with locking wheels so you can move it around..what do you think finished weight is?..finish it off with a coat of paint and you cant buy anything better...

[VPT]

Excellent! I have a boughten old HF type cabinet that comes in very handy! One thing I haven't got down though is the evac setup. I have tried all kinds of ideas and they all have drawbacks.

I have tried using a shop vac pulling the air threw another shop vac which was used as the hopper/filter. It worked alright but I was still getting dust in the air past the second shops vac. Then I tried pushing the air strait outside by blowing the air off the shop vac into the blast cabinet which shows you where all the leaks are... Finally I have a very small fan I stuck in the one vent hole of the cabinet which blows air into the cabinet much like the last shop vac idea but at a much lower speed and pressure so dust doesn't come blowing out of all the cracks, just some of them. Nothing is perfect.

What do you guys do for an evac system?

[cd19]

Originally Posted by VPT

Excellent! I have a boughten old HF type cabinet that comes in very handy! One thing I haven't got down though is the evac setup. I have tried all kinds of ideas and they all have drawbacks.

I have tried using a shop vac pulling the air threw another shop vac which was used as the hopper/filter. It worked alright but I was still getting dust in the air past the second shops vac. Then I tried pushing the air strait outside by blowing the air off the shop vac into the blast cabinet which shows you where all the leaks are... Finally I have a very small fan I stuck in the one vent hole of the cabinet which blows air into the cabinet much like the last shop vac idea but at a much lower speed and pressure so dust doesn't come blowing out of all the cracks, just some of them. Nothing is perfect.

What do you guys do for an evac system?

On my cabinet that I built, I put a hole in the upper back with expanded metal in it say 4"x6" roughly and made a small frame to clamp a piece of foam air filter over it. Then on the opposite end I put in a 4" port that hooks to my vacuum, on the inside this port has a roof/baffle over it to keep large particles from just short circuiting straight to the vacuum. I have a large dust collector vacuum, I think it is for a wood shop that sits on a 55 gallon barrel (barrel is for big objects, has a bag filter for the fine stuff). It's sealed onto the barrel and I have a few inches of water in the bottom of the barrel. Works good. I do not get dust outside of the cabinet and it keeps the dust down inside enough to see what you are doing. If you use plexiglass for your window, which I did because it is cheap to replace and won't hurt anyone if it breaks- put window screen over it on the inside, the idea is it will slow down the particles hitting it and keep the lens clear longer.

[dbotos]

Originally Posted by VPT

What do you guys do for an evac system?

Oneida Air Systems - Dust Deputy DIY:

http://www.oneida-air.com/inventoryD...m_no=AXD001004

[karlgabel]

Originally Posted by dbotos

Oneida Air Systems - Dust Deputy DIY:

http://www.oneida-air.com/inventoryD...m_no=AXD001004

Ditto for me - works well in my small cabinet (Harbor Freight special)

[brucer]

nice build, nice cabinet..

[VPT]

Originally Posted by dbotos

Oneida Air Systems - Dust Deputy DIY:

http://www.oneida-air.com/inventoryD...m_no=AXD001004

Well that looks like a swell little product! Does much dust make it threw the cyclone? That was my biggest problem even with the shop vacs piggy backed, the dust would stay airborne and make it threw both shop vacs and filters.

Any of you make the system a closed loop where the output of the shop vac went back into the cabinet?

[cd19]

Originally Posted by VPT

Well that looks like a swell little product! Does much dust make it threw the cyclone? That was my biggest problem even with the shop vacs piggy backed, the dust would stay airborne and make it threw both shop vacs and filters.

Any of you make the system a closed loop where the output of the shop vac went back into the cabinet?

put some water in the bottom of the shop vac.