Mig like Tig

[seatonpun]

Honestly, this whole "Mig Like Tig" thing is both disturbing and somewhat ridiculous to me...

Mig (or GMAW) is meant to look like Mig (or GMAW) and Tig (or GTAW) is meant to look like Tig (or GTAW)... By that, I mean that if your prepare your joints correctly, and you weld correctly (Paying attention to the metal - ensuring proper fusion through while maintaining puddle control) your welds will look like whatever process you used.

Mig (or GMAW) has different visual characteristics than Tig (or GTAW) because the obviously are very different processes. With Tig (or GTAW) you have the ability to weld Autogenously (No added filler) if you like....It depends on the application.

It will be a real shame if some newcomers come to this thread, and get so wrapped up in making Mig (or GMAW) LOOK like Tig (or GTAW) that they miss the whole point, and make poor welds that lead to eventual failure, and cause injury or loss.

[ZTFab]

That has all been discussed at great length and in disgusting detail.

If you don't like the thread or the technique, then don't post about it.

READ the thread(s) and attempt to understand that there are more techniques and practices being used then what you are used to in your realm of expertise.

[ZTFab]

Originally Posted by wagin

are you using the bump/pulse technique to produce those beauties?

Originally Posted by Matt_Maguire

Hi wagin, ZTFab explains fairly early in the thread his technique as a cursive small e motion. These welds are short circuit mig with mixed gas (I think C20 or C25). Pretty slick.

Matt

Matt is correct. No bumping, pulsing, pushing, shoving, etc..

All welds are done continuous, short circuit MIG with C25 gas and either .023" or .030" ER70S-6 wire with either my Lincoln SP135 or PowerMIG 200.

[dieselbeef]

my schooling taught me to weld exactly like zt does. in the loooong yrs of not mig welding and doin almost daily tig ive lost that tech. its on its way back now as ive been doing alot of fab work for some local sled pullers. either the smooth or the dimes make them happy as long as they dont break. depending on where they are i do either one..out front on a wieght bar ill do th dimes..on the rear underneath or the hitch i may do the smooth style. doing both lets me adapt the tech and the finished product to the cust wants

gary

[jakazz]

Heres another try for me.....my last one was quite a few pages back
not great but I am quite sure of the speed, on this one

[dieselbeef]

rodend for a set of traction bars on a sledpuller

[Horns]

Hello all. I am a 16 year old welder and I've been welding for about 2 years now. Even before seeing this thread I've been making my welds look like this.

Ever since I was taught it I've welded with the pictured technique.

(Black is actual path, Red is the direction of the path)


Doing this makes a very good looking strong weld except for one part. The top of the "Dimes" don't tie together very well.they tie in with the steel great but they don't tie in together.

So I've been practicing with the cursive "e" technique which ties the "dimes" in together very well, but I seem do be having a problem. When I first start the bead it starts out with a small width and the "dimes" close together. It then progressively gets bigger width and the dimes get farther apart until it start to conform to where I want it.

Now I know you have to control the puddle but whatever I do I just can't get it to stop doing this.

[fire1hawk]

I'm getting there

[dieselbeef]

yer saying thats a mig weld??

[fire1hawk]

Just playin

[OPUS FERRO]

Seatampon - Never give away the end of the story ! - Opus

[dieselbeef]

Originally Posted by dieselbeef

rodend for a set of traction bars on a sledpuller

not tiglike...push mig tho

[bigblue250]

Heres my attempt. Only had my phone to take a picture at work.

[rbmedic75]

WOW i just read all 15 pages every last post. Couple of comments, with all due respect some guys need to learn the art of READING COMPREHENSION OMG. Second some guys need to learn THAT THERE IS MORE THAN ONE WAY OF DOING SOMETHING CORRECTLY. Everyone that criticized the welds did so on the fact that they looked to pretty and then in the same post say that looks mean nothing, which is it why is it because the weld look (GREAT by the way guys) does it mean that it is poor. Why do some get so set that one way is the only way. I repect the opinion of a lot of people and there is a ton of knowledge on this forum, but a lot of things come across as well i wasnt taught that way so its wrong. and the worst I cant do it like that so its wrong. I have several freinds that are certified in MIG, Tig, stick multi posistion and welded for years for manufacturers like Grove CRANE and JLG they BOTH push or PULL mig welds. Before I got on the forum I weld MIG pulling with and cursive e, i can get the stack of dimes pretty easily but gotta say some of you guys consistency AMAZES ME. Guys like Zap, ZTfab, Brooks and there are several other but I just read 15 PAGES sorry are true artisans of your craft and my hat goes off to you. ZTFab i hope you dont mind but was in another forum and guys started the whole tig is great and mig sucks (none were welders) so I chimed in and ask why mig was so terrible the reply was uncontrollable and splatter and bla bla bla so I posted up the pic of your rear end supports, YEP ended the argument so thanks for that one I will have to try and post up some pics of my stuff like I said the dimes is achievable but the consistency man that a LOT of wire to get that down, hell I have seen machine welds with more inconsistencies in them. You guys got my respect

[rbmedic75]

one more thought

It is better to remain silent and be assumed as a fool than to open your mouth/keyboard and prove it

and a question I do do the dime stack thing comes more natural to me but how in the heck do you guys run a bead that smooth that has NO ripple in it that is impressive

[ZTFab]

Originally Posted by rbmedic75

WOW i just read all 15 pages every last post. Couple of comments, with all due respect some guys need to learn the art of READING COMPREHENSION OMG. Second some guys need to learn THAT THERE IS MORE THAN ONE WAY OF DOING SOMETHING CORRECTLY. Everyone that criticized the welds did so on the fact that they looked to pretty and then in the same post say that looks mean nothing, which is it why is it because the weld look (GREAT by the way guys) does it mean that it is poor. Why do some get so set that one way is the only way. I repect the opinion of a lot of people and there is a ton of knowledge on this forum, but a lot of things come across as well i wasnt taught that way so its wrong. and the worst I cant do it like that so its wrong. I have several freinds that are certified in MIG, Tig, stick multi posistion and welded for years for manufacturers like Grove CRANE and JLG they BOTH push or PULL mig welds. Before I got on the forum I weld MIG pulling with and cursive e, i can get the stack of dimes pretty easily but gotta say some of you guys consistency AMAZES ME. Guys like Zap, ZTfab, Brooks and there are several other but I just read 15 PAGES sorry are true artisans of your craft and my hat goes off to you. ZTFab i hope you dont mind but was in another forum and guys started the whole tig is great and mig sucks (none were welders) so I chimed in and ask why mig was so terrible the reply was uncontrollable and splatter and bla bla bla so I posted up the pic of your rear end supports, YEP ended the argument so thanks for that one I will have to try and post up some pics of my stuff like I said the dimes is achievable but the consistency man that a LOT of wire to get that down, hell I have seen machine welds with more inconsistencies in them. You guys got my respect

No problem at all!

Thanks for the compliments!

[rbmedic75]

ZTFab in the thread they mention you are using Different gasses was hoping you could let us in on what your using. For MS I have always used 75/25 and for stainless I use standard trimix. Are you using different than these

[ZTFab]

Originally Posted by rbmedic75

ZTFab in the thread they mention you are using Different gasses was hoping you could let us in on what your using. For MS I have always used 75/25 and for stainless I use standard trimix. Are you using different than these

I use 75/25.

[welder_one]

howdy all...... been a while since i posted here but couldnt help myself...... here is a couple of my mig pics. the fillet size is 5/16 the tubing is all 4x4 3/8 to 3x5 3/8 to 10x10 1/2 wall. this is a copyrighted water transfer manifold for high pressure water frac'ing for gas wells.

[husq2100]

Originally Posted by welder_one

howdy all...... been a while since i posted here but couldnt help myself...... here is a couple of my mig pics. the fillet size is 5/16 the tubing is all 4x4 3/8 to 3x5 3/8 to 10x10 1/2 wall. this is a copyrighted water transfer manifold for high pressure water frac'ing for gas wells.

what method are you using? do you stop start the trigger?

cheers,
Serg

[welder_one]

if i were to "tack" that thing together like that, i would wear out 10 sets of contactors and switches.... i am runnin about 25 volts and 400 wfs... start the puddle and slowly move up and down until the puddle gets as big as i want, then move out about the size of the puddle on the lower side in a long oval, coming back into the puddle on the top side, the swirl into the puddle, letting it build to size again to cover up the undercutting that the whip just created, then repeat process for however many feet of weld

[goinzer]

OK,
Here are first Aluminum welds, overhead t-Joint, and some verticals,
Any help or advice is appreciated.

1/2 inch material on top, 1/2 or 1/4 for the beam,
Mig Argon My machine set at max, I think 210 amps at 230 volts.

[DSW]

goinzer You really ought to start a new thread for suggestions on how to correct your issues rather than hyjack this one.