HELP problem with starting arc

[imbraindead]

HI for years i had no trouble starting the arc with a stick welder and now im working in a different company with what must be different rods i have a hard time starting the arc .I have to strike the rod end really hard or grind of the flux to start it.Does anybody know what rod is easy to start. THANKS FOR ANY ANSWER .

[zapster]

Some are a real pain in the a$$..

7024 is a pretty easy rod to play with..Flat anyway..
I like 7018 myself..
But after I stop I "rub" the flux off the end with my thumb and continue..

Yes I use 2 golves stickwelding...

...zap!

[imbraindead]

Thanks Zapster i will check the rod number im using at work (i dont remember)
what it is now.

[TozziWelding]

Tap, tap, tap, ZAP.

[zapster]

Originally Posted by TozziWelding

Tap, tap, tap, ZAP.

Sometimes it takes 4...


...zap!

[David R]

For 7018, I bang the end of the rod on something that is NOT grounded. Concrete works best.

David

[TEK]

7018 I just pinch the end off. Usually with gloves. Or just punch it into the concrete.

[tapwelder]

Depending on the time between restarts-7018 restarts pretty easily if the weld is still hot. I pinch it off with my glove, otherwise. If I am frustrated then bang it on something and later find out that it won't start because I jammed it up too high into the electrode holder onto the flux thus creating more frustration.

[WillieB]

Might be the machine and not the rod. for some reason, my old tombstone almost starts itself. A friend has a much newer machine which requires a higher amperage setting to burn the same rod and it still sticks a lot. I've always suspected it might be a difference in voltage.

[clive]

Sounds like classic low hydrogen rod, as stated above bang the end on the concrete to break the flux. You can tell a low hydrogen rod by the slag, it is glassy in appearance and harder to chip cleanly compared to a rutile electrode.
Clive

[KRS]

Poor ground clamp connection, dirty stinger, rods not dry...