stair layout

[cliff544]

is there a formula for stringer offset to the nosing line if someone could help me that would be great

[Tool Maker]

The formula for the rise versus tread is 7"-11". Is that what you want? Mac

[cliff544]

The space from edge of the channel to the nosing line

[Mick120]

This might help........

Sing out if you need the metric version.

[Old Doug]

I dont understand ? but if you go to a homeimprovement place you can get a swansons book. Or refrase?and I will try to help.

[cliff544]

the space between the edge of the channel and nose of the tread i've seen 1 t0 2 inches but i will see if i can post a drawing thanks mick120

[LayoutMan]

i think i know what you ask for, normally in a shop where they give me drawings, its always already calculated as 25.4mm or 50mm (1'' or 2'') and its often the same measure for the landing but sometimes it can be more than the stringer!

it can be hard for me to help you because of my english!

if the stair need accuracy with all exact measure all scratched with scriber i find this measure by trig with Sin (but its complicated to explain and i never seen anyone doing this like i do, all old timers i know do it like i will explain)

the normal common method is go the the bottom edge of your MC, and start your layout with your framing square there, so you will have a layout of your riser and thread wich start at the bottom edge, now on this layout, draw your finnished thread (concrete pan normally arround 50mm thick, or just checkered plate about 3/16) so draw the thread exactly like your shop drawing and don't forget the nosing probably 25mm of the front of your riser layout!

Now you will have 1 finnished thread layed out at the bottom of your channel, so now make a straight line from the top edge of the MC at the measure needed (25mm or 50mm or wtv needed) all the lenght of your stringer and then take a tape measure an take your measure from this line to the point of the finnished nosing that you draw before, for example you have 125mm, now take this measure (125mm) and draw a straight line at 125mm from the bottom edge, and start laying out your stairs on this line (the bottom line at 125mm) !

very important, when you have one stair layed out on the supposed ''finnished line'' verify again to see if your finnished nosing end on the good line on the top (the 25mm or 50mm line)


sorry for my english hope this help!

[Mick120]

Cliff,
That Excel program is cusomizable, just enter your own measurements and, hey presto.....Go to the design page to enter.
I've been using it for years with good success, altho, I still draw the things either on table or floor to double check.
There's also a metric version.

[cliff544]

How far down to draw the nosing line on the channel

[LayoutMan]

hmm, i don't understand, it will help me if you give exactly what kind of job you are doing and if you already have a measure or try to find measure ? because i know only 1 offset that can be possible from the top edge to the nosing and its what i explain you! do have a drawing with a measure for that or you try to make it by yourself and ''invent'' this measure ?

If you try to ''enginneer'' a staircase that you will made for you, just look in a building code book for some standard, the explain i gave you if usefull when you already have this measure on a shop drawing between 25mm and 50mm, in a commercial shop its not our decision to find this measure!

[cliff544]

If you google detailing stair Basic principal and common practices thier is a picture that shows stringer offset and small description to the right I'm not work on any project just try to figure out thing so maybe my boss will let me layout some stairs that's all hope this helps

[cliff544]

this is what im try to figure out how to come up with number 1 layoutman im probaly not understanding you i have about 3 weeks experience laying out anything hope this clears up everything

[tapwelder]

https://netforum.avectra.com/eweb/sh...b-48817e561f60

Worth purchasing.

[LayoutMan]

you dont need to buy anything!

just need to learn!

look at my sketch hope this help!

the best trick i can give you is take a piece of channel at your job, or plate, put it a side of your work place, and ask for some old done drawings of stair and just practice for fun during your break (if you are really motivated to learn this) so at the same time you will improve your skills to laying out stairs and probably your foreman will see it that you practice and they like that!!

[cliff544]

the drawings that i've seen have never have that 50mm and nobody will tell me a work like its a guarded secret the 50mm is not a constant it will change right

[LayoutMan]

yes, they probably tell you "we need more young guys like you, because no one want to learn this job nowadays!" and when you ask for a questions they are rude with you and don't want to show you!

i know that!

but like i said, im pretty sure you have this measure, maybe the shop where you work do always the samething and the drawer just don't write that on the drawing because he know that the layout guy just do always 25mm or 50mm! but its impossible the layout guy NEED to find this measure, because you can put almost everything you want you just need to keep this measure for all the set of stairs, thats the most important, but you don't need to FIND this measure, its written somewhere or in the head of the layout guy because its the standard of your company or something like that!

the 50mm or 25mm line is constant, its like a standard and drawing are approved like this, its rare that it will be something else, the line wich will change its the bottom line (the 130mm on my sketch) and this because of the riser and thread are always different, and this line have to change to be able to keep your right measure at the top (nosing line 1 or your drawing)!

[fdcmiami]

i started to answer this three times but got bogged down with info. see if you can get your hands on a set of working drawings and look at how the detailer drew the stair. the nose line is not something that is fixed because it can be moved to provide the easiest method of fabrication of the stair (particularly if they are going to be poured). you are simply to new, a couple of field installs would help you; think of the shop as a classroom and the install as real world.

you could take the time to go look at some stairs, there's plenty out there.

but what is fixed is the rise and the run of your treads,

[cliff544]

thanks guys for all for the help i've been struggling for awhile on this one longer than 3 weeks thanks again

[Mick120]

Cliff....From what I've read, you're trying to make it more complicated than it really is.
I look at your drawing and wonder why you need to know 1 at all.....I've never made stairs that have a set measurement anywhere, hell, I'd never made a set of stringers ever and, still managed to get the job done, just by utilising the software I posted earlier.
I've made heaps since and never had a problem.
If you have problems, tell me your measurements (going, height, # steps, etc) and I'll work it out for you.....It isn't rocket science.....

[fdcmiami]

mick, not saying that a person could not work with that software but it is set up for a woodworker. i have not done many wood stringers but i can't say i have ever seen one set in concrete, or held together with angle clips and welded pans that take a concrete pour. you can't just put in a stair here, it has to pass muster with the building department.

this guy needs more time with drawings, he should just google steel stair design and see what he comes up with. everyone looking for the easy answer. it's not there.

i'm betting he's never worked with junior channel.

[Mick120]

Originally Posted by fdcmiami

mick, not saying that a person could not work with that software but it is set up for a woodworker. i have not done many wood stringers but i can't say i have ever seen one set in concrete, or held together with angle clips and welded pans that take a concrete pour. you can't just put in a stair here, it has to pass muster with the building department.

this guy needs more time with drawings, he should just google steel stair design and see what he comes up with. everyone looking for the easy answer. it's not there.

i'm betting he's never worked with junior channel.

I hear ya mate but, I've used it to good effect for steel stringers....Then again, I also draw the things up in my CAD program as well.
That is foolproof.......

[cliff544]

If was as easy as googling stair detail I would have found my answers months ago and I purchase the DVD the one person mention the guy in the video had the dimension on the drawing I've never seen it in one in the past two years once again I would like thank fdcmiami and layout man and mick120 problem solved

[fdcmiami]

cliff, the thing to remember is that it is not fixed. layout your tread and riser at the base of the stringer; strike a line vertically and put a mark at 7 in (for demo) then draw a horizontal 7 inches above baseline that passes through your mark at 7 inches on the vertical and that will be your nose line. this would be for a stair that is being laid out to a

24/26 standard. the sum of two risers and one tread has to be in that range.

there are different stair categories that can have different rise and run ratios; architectural, commercial, service. this would be commercial. also some building departments might have tighter requirements on the tread/riser number; maybe 25/26.

remember, it is a guide.

that's a 32.5 degree stair.