Tie Rod Fail

[farmersamm]

Was getting ready to load some more bull calves for market when the front end loader decided to fall apart while getting ready to move some hay.

The tie rod snapped. A fatigue failure from constant flexing. The stock tie rod is mostly made of 11ga tubing.



Couldn't move the tractor, so the parts had to be cut out where the tractor sat.



Of note here is the necessity to remove one end of the tie rod by cutting the threaded portion off.



The plan was to repair the assembly by inserting solid round stock inside the tubing for strength, and weld the whole mess up to the remaining solid end of the tie rod assembly. The hollow portion is on the left, and the solid portion is on the right. Notice how I've beveled the solid round stock at a 45 degree angle for welding. The reason I do this is in order to be able to focus the heat equally into the round stock and the flat ground portion of the original tie rod. This allows for a steeper rod angle as opposed to a 30 degree bevel.



This is gonna take a while because the storms over the weekend knocked out my wireless connection, and I'm running on dialup

[farmersamm]

The round stock is welded to the solid end of the tie rod using 3/32 7018 at 90amps. I use 3/32 here so as to be able to reach into the tight bevel.





The round stock was then inserted full length into the hollow part of the tie rod clear to the tie rod end.



As you can see, there's a healthy gap to fill in addition to the problem of welding thick stock to thin material. The weld is made with 3/32 rod running at 90amps. You have to have enough heat to properly penetrate the thick stock. The puddle is allowed to wash into the gap and fuse with the thinner 11ga tubing. I always tell people to let the puddle wash, this is a prime example. You really have to know what the puddle looks like, and be able to control the movement of the filler material as it nears the thinner tubing. It comes with time and experience. Practice practice practice



More to follow...................

[WyoRoy]

When I didn't hear a peep out of you Sunday I figured the bull(s) won the round Saturday. Looks like it came out a draw. Hope you spent some quality time with Kelley.

[farmersamm]

This is causing my connection to PUKE. POS DIALUP.

Anyway, the tie rod end was damaged by having to cut it out. The threaded portion was destroyed.

To restore the threads I use a grade 8 bolt with the head removed. The bolt is beveled again at a 45 or steeper angle to allow room for the rod while welding. Notice that the nut is threaded to the bolt at all times from start to finish of the grinding/welding process. This allows you to remove the bolt if the threads become distorted by the heat input. Never do this without the nut installed.



The thread is now attached. Some folks say you shouldn't do this, but I've done it for years with good results. The alternative is a broken unuseable part. Again this was 3/32 at 90amps.



The finished part installed.



I'll pick up a locknut sometime today, but for now it's just a plain nut torqued tight.



Gotta love that Southern know-how

[WyoRoy]

Pretty good for a Colorado greenie.

[farmersamm]

Roy, Kelly was a real trooper, she hung out with me the whole time and offered constructive criticism She calls it "suggestions"

[WyoRoy]

"Yes dear...."

[Farmerboy]

I have had the ball fall out of the knuckle on the Deere, and have welded a washer on the knuckle for a quick fix until I could replace, it, but there hanging on the Deere not on top on the steering arm,

I am not following the need to cut the thread off of the taper to remove, can you explane that a little more?

[gwiley]

Would the strength of the joint been better if you had cut the tube in a sawtooth profile so that you would have a lot more joint to weld? I suppose since the tie rod is just 11ga tube that it might be overkill.

[DSW]

Originally Posted by farmersamm

Couldn't move the tractor, so the parts had to be cut out where the tractor sat.

Samm, Samm, Samm... All you need to do is put the loader arms down, pick up the front end with the loader ( works best with the bucket on the machine) and drive where you want using the independent brakes on the machine to steer. It is easier to change directions if you have a backhoe on the machine to maneuver with though. I just don't know what they are teaching you guys these days...


I see like all of our machines, you don't have a lot of issues with the bottom end rusting out.

[farmshop]

I am guessing the tierod end was spinning or the threads were already damaged

[zapster]

Good thing you wasn't going 60!....

...zap!