Tilting light pole

[Chucker]

Hi:
I am building a hinge for a commercial steel light pole to put up beside my front pond. The pins are approximately 1" solid stock ( I turned them down to fit snugly within the hinges of black pipe). There will be 3 hinges and the pins will be capable of being driven out so that I may tilt the pole either north or south by removing two pins. I will be using 3/8" plate for both where the hinge will attach to the mounting plate on the pole base and the mounting plate to the pole proper. The pole is probably about 20 feet long with weight over 150 pounds plus my fixture.

I havent decided whether to MIG this or stick weld and I am also pondering how I will do the mounting on the concrete base. Any comments are most welcome.

Chuck

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[Sandy]

I helped a guy work on one similar in concept to what you are discussing. Hinged up at about six feet it was still a real circus letting it down.

[Chucker]

Sandy: I expect so. I will be welding a lift ring on each side of the pole and belay it with my 8N tractor so the only real difficulty will be in starting the pole to break over at the hinge. I used to not mind heights in my younger days when I painted water storage towers but now 20 ft starts to make me concerned. I noticed that now when I fall I do not bounce. I just hit and stick. Chuck

[Sandy]

His was top heavy, naturally, being hinged at six feer so the real scary part was after it broke over center. We did it with body weight and some beer thrown in for ballast.

I've seen others plated at the bottom so they could only go one way.

Mine is 18 ft. but I put steps on it. I climb on a regular basis so it doesn't bother me. I sure as heck do know about the lack of bounce tho. My last ordeal was a wrestling match with a bent pipe and I self propelled myself straight back about four feet and lit about as gracefull as a melon on the side walk. Hurt for a month.

[daddy]

A couple questions :
Is the concrete existing, or will you be pouring it for the pole?
Have you thought about rust in the hinge? That large surface area between the pipe and the pin could get really stuck.

[Chucker]

Daddy: The base has not been poured yet and I am thinking about turning down the pins a little more and putting zerk fittings at all nine joints. Hopefully if I put never seize on all joints and keep them pumped up with grease I will not have a problem. What has held me up on turning my pins down farther is a question of play at the base. The area where this will be installed is out in the open and I am not sure if the effect of the wind will cause the pole to sway and I do not know if sway could make my hinges and pins become brittle. Any ideas?

Chuck

[denrep]

Most of the sign posts I've seen have just one pin. A hinged three sided box, nests over a square tube base, and a big bolt and nut secures it and takes the movement out of it.

[daddy]

This will be easier since you have not poured the base. I'd suggest that you make a mount out of plate that has J hooks or peices of c channel welded to the bottom and install this into the pour so that the steel finishes flush with the top of the crete. As for the hinge;Instead of the pipe, how about drilling a hole in a thick pc. of plate say 3/4 or 1" to accept the pin. This can be welded to the base plate in the concrete,and reduces the available rust area. To install it in the crete weld a few pcs. of all thread to the assembly so that you can hang it and level it in the form.

[Chucker]

Denrep:

I suppose I could do this with a Pin on either end and catch my center support with square stock welded between the pivot points. Would probably work better and have less points to seize and at the same time box in at least the insides of the joints. Not being an engineer I have always overcome error by overbuilding but yours seems to be a better idea all around. Thanks for the input Chuck

[Chucker]

Jarret: I appreciate the input and intend to consider everything before I fab this up any further. thanks Chuck

[Joker11]

I work on the Union Pacific RailRoad right of way. They recently put up some poles that tilt up and down for their radio transmitter antennas. I will try to get a picture of it because I think that is exactly what you are doing. If you don't mind, hold on a day or two and see if you think it will work for you.

Joker

[Chucker]

Joker: Thanks I am in no hurry as I am recuperating from a Car Accident and could not even lean over a torch for a while. Even without that excuse it is down in the teens here in northeast ohio and my outside work is hampered by the cold. I appreciate your help. Chuck

[turboblown]

Google "ham radio tiltdown towers" to get some input

[Chucker]

will do chuck

[Blitzen]

[quote=Chucker;156912]Hi:
I am building a hinge for a commercial steel light pole to put up beside my front pond. The pins are approximately 1" solid stock ( I turned them down to fit snugly within the hinges of black pipe). There will be 3 hinges and the pins will be capable of being driven out so that I may tilt the pole either north or south by removing two pins. I will be using 3/8" plate for both where the hinge will attach to the mounting plate on the pole base and the mounting plate to the pole proper. The pole is probably about 20 feet long with weight over 150 pounds plus my fixture.

I havent decided whether to MIG this or stick weld and I am also pondering how I will do the mounting on the concrete base. Any comments are most welcome.

Chuck

Hi Chuck,

Either way you weld it, it will be just as strong. Stick with 7018 would do fine, but the slag is always a pain to chip away and could cause porosity in your weld if you don't clean it well. If you're using MIG, which is my preferance in the shop, just make sure you have enough penetration. I'd also use multiple passes on the base. As far as mounting it to the concrete, drill holes in the base plate and use 1/2 or 5/8 lag bolts (red devils) to secure it. Your pole won't go anywhere! Good luck and let me know how it goes!! Dave