Help with open root

[Jess92345]

I need help with the root pass on 6 in. sch 40 in the 6G position. I am trying to qualify in SMAW. I have a 3/32 land, a 3/32 root opening and I am using 1/8 E6010. The majority of the root looks alright except for the tie-ins. I am feathering the tacks and cannot figure out what I am doing wrong. Does anyone have any suggestions.

[OldSparks]

Every two years a welder has to requalify on a 6010 root/7018 fill cap to do any welding at all in neighbouring Alberta. I'm sure the guys that do it regularly will have a less complicated technique but this gets me through the tests. I usually drive a wedge above the tack to make sure my gap doesn't close when I reach it. When I feather the tack, I thin it out for a good 1/2 inch. Also, I blend in the edges of the land at the start of the tack. My thought is that it is easier to assure good penetration if you aren't suddenly running into a solid mass. When approaching the tack, I'll pause about 1/8" short of it and direct the arc at both edges to make sure the keyhole developes, then give an extra push and travel about 1/2 speed onto the tack. Carry on at least 3/8" onto the tack in the hope that the extra heat will blend the root. The pic shows a tie-in on a three o'clock tack.

[BadgerWelds]

old sparks .. i really like your picture.. the explanation was excellent.. my son saw it and we have been working on improving his skill.. i get kind of frustrated trying to show him.. I have been doing it a long tine now it's almost natural to me . but trying to teach someone gets a guy frustrated.. he's getting the hang of it...

[OldSparks]

BadgerWelds...
Thanks for the reply. One other tip that came to mind as I reread the thread is to make sure you have sufficient rod left once you commit yourself to the tie-in. If in doubt , break off at least 1/4" early. I have more confidence in an extra restart than a hurried tie-in. Also, if you do pull out and find the gap has tightened up for the tie in then I'd drop down to 3/32" rod at the same heat to finish off. With a 1/8" land/gap you are only going to get about 1 inch of travel but that should be enough.. The hotter burning 3/32" will promote a better tie-in at the risk of excess penetration. Worth practicing.

[Jess92345]

OK, thank you for the help. I'll be back in scholl on monday and give it a try. I'll let you know how it works out.

[Jess92345]

Ok I'm back and I have been working on my open root all week. I can make the tie-ins much better now. Thank you. I have a question about the cover now and I think I'll be able to qualify. I am using 3/32 7018 and I can put in a cover that is acceptable but I do not like the apearence. The width of each bead is too wide. I am running at about 85 amps and have tried to speed up, but when I do it looks irregular. do you have any suggestions?

[Jolly Roger]

Keep practicing. Worry about passing, the looks will come with practice.

[worldsgreatestwelder]

Great questions by Jess.

Old sparks hit a home run with his answer. I taught welding for several years and your answer was simple, clear, and vary understandable, where were you then old sparks? lol


Good to see the system work so well.
Jimmy

[Jolly Roger]

This is one way I do it and it has worked well for me. I leave my top and bottom tacks and grind out the side tacks until they are almost gone. I start my run about 1 1/2 to two inches off the top or bottom depending on if the procedure specifies uphill or downhill and weld all the way through the tack as I come over it to the end of my rod or to about two inches from the opposite tack from the starting position. This is using 1/8th 5P+ since I left that out earlier. Then I do the same on the opposite side. Make sure when you come over that tack that you blow through it. Then I grind out the top and bottom tacks the same way as well as grinding out the starts and stops giving myself a good inch to get the fire going before I hit the end of the bead and then burn it in across the tack continuing on into the end of the next bead. Then I do the remaining side. It will get easier for you do to the more you do it.

[Jess92345]

I like the sound of that. Restarting is not a problem for me, so if I just blow through the tack, all I will have is a restart. I am traveling uphill, so if I grind the side tacks too thin will the gap want to close on me?

[tortis]

Originally Posted by OldSparks

BadgerWelds...
Thanks for the reply. One other tip that came to mind as I reread the thread is to make sure you have sufficient rod left once you commit yourself to the tie-in. If in doubt , break off at least 1/4" early. I have more confidence in an extra restart than a hurried tie-in. Also, if you do pull out and find the gap has tightened up for the tie in then I'd drop down to 3/32" rod at the same heat to finish off. With a 1/8" land/gap you are only going to get about 1 inch of travel but that should be enough.. The hotter burning 3/32" will promote a better tie-in at the risk of excess penetration. Worth practicing.

so if i am reading you right, when the gap starts to close, keep the heat the same and use a 3/32'' rod, instead of turning the heat up with the 1/8'' rod.

[OldSparks]

Originally Posted by tortis

so if i am reading you right, when the gap starts to close, keep the heat the same and use a 3/32'' rod, instead of turning the heat up with the 1/8'' rod.

That is one option if you find yourself having to restart with 1/4" left to go and the gap has tightened. I prefer to do a quarter pipe at a time, tack to tack, with a wedge to maintain gap. I haven't had too much success grinding a tack and running over it....usually get myself in bigger problems as the gap closes. But as I implied earlier, I don't do 6010 roots on a regular basis....a person doing any procedure in Alberta has to also retest with 6010 every 2 years. I just do enough to keep my hand in it and able to stumble through when I have to. For a person who's in the groove so to speak, it probably is a faster idea to grind the tack, turn up the heat and carry on.